Can alternator go bad practically overnight ~ (after a motor swap)?
Hey guys I just finished my OBD1 B16 swap into my 2000 civic hatch, I swapped the OBD2 alternator (which had seemingly been working great before) onto the B16 and it seems to have bit the dust!
I tested it by removing the negative battery cable while the motor was running and it instantly cut out. So my question is; does this sound right? Is it possible (or likely) that my 3 year old alternator just went out conviently after the swap?
Any help is greatly appreciated.......I wanna drive this thing
I tested it by removing the negative battery cable while the motor was running and it instantly cut out. So my question is; does this sound right? Is it possible (or likely) that my 3 year old alternator just went out conviently after the swap?
Any help is greatly appreciated.......I wanna drive this thing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGCIV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I tested it by removing the negative battery cable while the motor was running and it instantly cut out. So my question is; does this sound right? Is it possible (or likely) that my 3 year old alternator just went out conviently after the swap?
Any help is greatly appreciated.......I wanna drive this thing
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, it sounds right, when you lift the negative battery cable, newer cars turn off. Never do that again, the load on your electrical systems is hard to take and some things can get damaged.
If you want to try your alternator get a voltmeter and put it on the battery terminals and turn the car on, turn every electrical device on your car on as well (stereo, lights, hazzard lights, etc..) and it should read above 13 volts at idle, and if you accelerate the car it should come close to 14V, if every electrical device is off the car should read 14.4V altough is not that important to be 14.4V exact. if you turn everything on as i stated before and the voltmeter reads more than 13 V you're ok.
I tested it by removing the negative battery cable while the motor was running and it instantly cut out. So my question is; does this sound right? Is it possible (or likely) that my 3 year old alternator just went out conviently after the swap?
Any help is greatly appreciated.......I wanna drive this thing
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, it sounds right, when you lift the negative battery cable, newer cars turn off. Never do that again, the load on your electrical systems is hard to take and some things can get damaged.
If you want to try your alternator get a voltmeter and put it on the battery terminals and turn the car on, turn every electrical device on your car on as well (stereo, lights, hazzard lights, etc..) and it should read above 13 volts at idle, and if you accelerate the car it should come close to 14V, if every electrical device is off the car should read 14.4V altough is not that important to be 14.4V exact. if you turn everything on as i stated before and the voltmeter reads more than 13 V you're ok.
ive had 3 go out on my truck without any warning at all..in ur case id suspect its a wiring issue since the alternator was working befor the swap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepnite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in ur case id suspect its a wiring issue since the alternator was working befor the swap</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing only thing is I am using the same harness from my old motor and the plug is good as well as the ground on the alternator
So is there anything else that I should check before just getting a new one? Is there a definite way to check whether it is a wiring issue or a problem with the alternator itself?
Thnaks again for the help and suggestions
I was thinking the same thing only thing is I am using the same harness from my old motor and the plug is good as well as the ground on the alternator
So is there anything else that I should check before just getting a new one? Is there a definite way to check whether it is a wiring issue or a problem with the alternator itself?
Thnaks again for the help and suggestions
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