What would be the proper break-in period on a built bottom-end? (New rods, sleeves, pistons, bearings.)

How many miles?

Thanks!

 

500, 1k be safe but change the oil after 500

 

everyone will tell you something diff, theres the traditional soft break in , 500-1k mils easy driving and gradually building up the rpms, thne theres the hard break in which goes against all we have been taught . . . . tune it and beat it to the ground on the dnyo or whatever , break it in like you plan on driving it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everyone will tell you something diff, theres the traditional soft break in , 500-1k mils easy driving and gradually building up the rpms, thne theres the hard break in which goes against all we have been taught . . . . tune it and beat it to the ground on the dnyo or whatever , break it in like you plan on driving it</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like your answer. It's going to be hard not to step on it!

 

let it idle for 15 min change oil

drive it. try and toggle the rpms. 1k to 2k, the back down to 1k, then 1k to 3k, then back down to 1k. do this till 5k, do this a couple times. then change oil agian

then do the smae thing but this time go to redline. do this several times. i did it like 2 twice let it sit over night did it again a couple times.. change the oil at 100 miles.

beat on it till 500 or 1000 miles , change oil your good to go

do NOT use synthtic for break in. use some 10w30 gastol gtx. after the 1000 miles you can put synthetic in if you want.

this is a hard break in , but it works great.

platinum.

 

i let my car idle for a half hr then changed oil.
then ran car for first 20o miles below 3,000rpms then changed oil again. Then upped the rpms to 4,000 to 500miles then changed oil once again. Then from there on i just ran it up to about 6500 for the next 500miles then changed oil again. Then when you get to 1500miles but turbo back on and get it tuned for high boost. do NOT use synthtic for break in. use some 10w30 gastol gtx.

 

esus you people spend $100 in oil and filters just to break it in .? thats crazy

 

5 minutes around the block, change oil, then bring it to the dyno. That concludes your break in period.

 

When breaking in on the street be sure to bring the rpm's up and then let off the gas while still in gear to put reverse load on the rings...this should help a bit. I dont see the need for the long boring break in period---its pretty much a thing of the past.

 

This is what I will be using. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

-Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what I will be using. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

-Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

You beat me to it I was just gonna post the link
Controversial, but I think its the right way to go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what I will be using. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

-Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was gonna post that but im not on my computer so I dont have it saved in my favorites.
Some other nice articles on that site too!

 

Does anyone know of anyone who has used this? He seems reputable. Makes sense to me. If not I will find out soon enough. Just waiting on my block.....

-Ryan

 

I used the method posted in the link. b18b with rods pistons bearings. After 3k miles i checked my compression... 165 across all cylinders. This is with 9:1 compression.

 

$100 is a small price to pay when you have a built block worth several thousand dollars.

When beaking in new rings, you want to get as much vacuum as possible. Things like lifting and using engine breaking at high rpm's are best.

Frequent oil changes as mentioned above are best.

 

yeah $100 on oil and filters is alot better then metal in your system...and there will be metal after the initial startup and break in so its really important to change the oil frequetly.

its also a good idea to get a nice magnetic drain plug if you dont already have one. it will pull a lot of crap from cycling around through your oil.

 

dont skimp on the break in. it's prolly the most important part besides putting the engine together correctly..


platinum.

 

when you guys said to redline it a couple of times , do you full-throttle it ??

 

no.

i dont full throttle (wot) till fully broke in. 1/4 to 1/2 is what i do. but i guess it prolly does not matter.

 

**** i only got 2k on my motor and im boosting 10psi daily on it.

i ran 5psi on it at 1k. gotta get those rings used to boost sometimes. hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When breaking in on the street be sure to bring the rpm's up and then let off the gas while still in gear to put reverse load on the rings...this should help a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is what my method includes. The egine will use its vacum to suck oil up and on to the rings, and they will seat well.

 

I'm also breaking in a new motor. I let it run for about 20 mins, changed oil. And my plan now is to drive it like I usually drive it, normal driving with a couple WOT sprints We'll see how she does.

 

I've built several engines both for work and at home and I've never broken in one at wot only. The problem with some of the break in techniques out there right now is that they're for rings produced long ago on old cast iron V8s. The new rings, especially soft import rings seat fast with a smaller window for screw ups. If they haven't seated well in the first 20 miles or so, they never will. The trick is to load them, then bathe them with oil and pull a heavy vacuum on them as well as heat cycling. Here goes, start the car and let it warm up for about a minute and then go cruising, never keep it at a steady rpm for any long period of time, when it comes up to temp, make a full throttle 3rd gear(if room allows) pass up to red line then let off the throttle but leave the trans in gear and let the engine brake itself back down to about 2k. Do that about 4 more times, then park the car and let it cool completely down, then go repeat. When you come back, let it cool completely down, retorque the head, adjust the valves again, and you're ready to go.