My buddy downshifted from 5th to 2nd and apparently bent some valves.
I did a compression test and it came out:
210,155,210,210
Now I am planning on keeping an OEM valvetrain except for the addition of EF-1 inner springs. Now my question is... when i remove the head i know the cyl with 154 comp is the one that is the problem. Should i just remove ALL the valves and take them to the machine shop to double check the rest of them are ok?

And one last thing, is it possible that the valve in that cyl only need to be adjusted?
*the car is def not making its potential power, you can feel it.
*if you go to the tail pipe it goes put-put-put in a very noticable pulse.
*and the idle is kinda rough.
---I dont know if valves that need to be adjusted real bad would mess up compression
----And one last thing is there a need for me to replace the valve quides that have the bent valve?

 

I would definitely get all the valves and the head checked
You could have bent or chipped a valve. Hopefully there was no damage to the piston. If you change the valve, you need to make sure the new valve is properly seated. You might as well change the guide, especialy if the valve was bent.
That # is too far off for just needing an adjustment... IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingDsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you change the valve, you need to make sure the new valve is properly seated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how is that done?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingDsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That # is too far off for just needing an adjustment... IMO
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought so too

 

take off the head, disassemble it, and take it to a machine shop. they can hook you up

 

i am sure they can. the thing is i'd like to do it myself. and if its somthing that can be done at my garage i'd like to learn how.
i hate to pay people and i love to learn

 

the machine shop would be who i would trust on a head rebuild. the valve seats, the valve guides, and the servicing of the valves. which is all together called a valve job should really only be done by a professional

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am sure they can. the thing is i'd like to do it myself. and if its somthing that can be done at my garage i'd like to learn how.
i hate to pay people and i love to learn</TD></TR></TABLE>

A machine shop or dealership that still rebuilds head's.

but you can do this yourself it's really not that hard -
you can even check for bend valve yourself - here's how:
remove the valve and take to flate table and roll the stem while watching the valve head - it should be smooth no wobble - to reseat new valve's to the head you can simply lap the valve the head - you can purchase lapping tools and compound at a local part store. (when lapping guides must true)

but if you want to do the guide's yourself - your better off to send the head to machine shop and just have them do it.

I've been rebuilding head's for four years now at the dealer:
I use neway valve seat cutter's not grinder's
k-line valve guide driver
k-line vave boring and hone
neway valve grinder
honda valve guide seater

I've spend $3,000 on tools except for the neway valve grinder - it belongs to the dealer.. So, you can see your limited to what you can do.

 

thanks for the info. i'm gonna try it...and a P&P i'll post dyno sheets when its done