after changing my clutch and pressure plate out for a new set i have noticed my clutch pedal to be a lot softer than when i had my stock clutch and pressure plate in. so i bleed the clutch system really good and long and still it gets no better, it doesnt get worse but i wish it was stiffer like when i first did my swap, any advice on why this happend?

 

Well it's either one or two

1.) Faulty clutch master cyl., release cylinder, hydraulic line

or

2.) broken release bearing or fork

I suggest changing all three in 1.), usually solves problems such as this.

 

does the fluid still have bubbles in it when you bleed it?

also check all the connections between the lines and cylinders you may have a leak.

If you do that then you'll want to change the slave and master together.

Do the free stuff first then, blow some money.

 

well no air bubbles come out when i bleed the system only fluid comes out. and the thing is the pedal was just fine before i changed the clutch and pressure plate. when i took the tranny off to do it i did not disconect the hydro clutch line i just unbolted teh 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder on the tranny so i never let any air in the system but the pedal was very soft after bolting it back up. i dont thin i have any peoblems with my clutch hydro system i checked for leaks and the lines are nice and tite the fluuid level is never down, could it be the new clutch and pressure plate being that its not OEM kit but a stock replacement from auto zone?

 

so its an autozone replacement?

if so then yes, thats what it is.

every clutch/pressure plate will have a different feel, thats why you hear all the time about people with ACT 6 pucks getting a leg workout in thier car everyday.

If the system worked before and you have no leaks and you didn't disconnect the system in any way, you should be ok.

MAKE SURE:

Drive it around the neighborhood, you'll know pretty quick if its not working ie can't get into gear etc.

also let the car get hot, I had a problem with my clutch whenver the car would get warmed up the clutch would be hard as **** to get in, I bled the system more and fixed it no probs.

 

did you line up the slave cyl arm to the release fork?

 

yea the gears change no problem ther are no grinds what so ever and it shifts very smoothly. another thing about this autozone pressure playe is that it is a 3 strap pressure plate wher as the type r pressure plate i was running before was only a 2 strap. other then a MUSHY pedal feel the tranny shifts just fine. i was just concerned about the feel thats all.

also heres another question since i didnt resurface the flywheel i am going to do a flywheel job in the next month, what im curious abot is should i just resurface the stock type r flywheels i am using or should i go ahead and get a brand new lighten flywheel by like ACT? also when i do my flywheel job will teh clutch thats in there be ok or is it already glazed by now since i didnt resurface the flywheel?

 

you should be good then, as far as the flywheel goes, if your not going turbo I would get a lightened flywheel, but the R flywheel is a nice piece as well.

It really depends on what you want to do.

As long as you follow the proper break in procedures the clutch won't glaze but get it resurfaced as soon as possible.

 

well see i am going boost in about a month, my turbo kit is in my garage waiting for the dyno and i really dont want the clutch and flywheel combo to slip when i start boosting. so i guess since my bday is coming up really soon ill get my mom to buy me a act flywheel (7.5 lbs) and ill just get a good racing clutch kit from exedy. i guess i should have waited form doing my clutch this past weekdn with a cheap clutch kit from auto zone but i guess if i want it done right and no slipping i should get a new flywheel and racing clutch kit before i boost lol. ill finish my 500 mile break in period (still about 400 to go) and decide from there if it wilol be ok thanx for your advice

 

Air might still be trapped in the clutch hydraulic lines. The easiet way I found in order to bleed the lines is to use a vacuum that attaches to the bleeder valve on the operating cylinder. Make sure the master cylinder is filled to the top with enough fluid before you engage the vacuum. Be sure to monitor the fluid levels as well.

 

yeah different clutches are going to present you with a different clutch feel on the pedal.

after my 5 speed swap with OE clutch/pressure plate my clutch was very free, my friend who helped with the swap has a damn hard clutch

 

when you put on the turbo. make sure the stock replacement pressure plate can handle the added boost. usually a stock clutch (even new) cant handle all the power added by a turbo.

 

do not go 7.5 lb flywheel if you are going turbo, theres less rotating mass so you will fall out of boost between shifts.

stick with a 12 lb flywheel and you will need a new clutch the autzone one won't cut it. so you mind as well buy an ACT kit which comes with everything you will need.