Well, I am trying to change my head and have ran into the dreaded crank pully bolt. I am sure some of you know how to deal with this thing. I am not even sure if I know what way to turn it to loosen it. Any help would be appreciated!

 

get either a huge *** impact and get it off that way, or get a big breaker bar and take off the stock timing belt mount and get to it that way, also to loosen bring it towards the front of the car

 

So, it is reversed threads? I thought it was and my stupid manual says nothing about it! Thanks!

 

use a chain wrench and a breaker bar. easy

 

impact would be your best bet. i tried to take it off with my ratchet and a 4 foot jack handle and i was pushing on it and had my friend jump on it, still wouldn't budge. the crank pulley was moving though, we couldn't get it to stop. we tried the gear in and brake method and that didn't work. well i don't know, haha. hope you get it loose though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, it is reversed threads? I thought it was and my stupid manual says nothing about it! Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO. It is NOT reversed threaded.

Here is the best way to take it off.

Remove the flywheel inspection cover and jam the end of a bigger box end wrench between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing on the radiator side of the engine. When you go to loosen the bolt, this will jam the flywheel from spinning and it will do so safely, because of the diameter of the flywheel.

Then, just use a breaker bar and use all your might and pop it loose.

I don';t like using impacts on stubborn crank pulleys cause it sends a lot of vibration through the recirpocating assembly

 

Thanks man! Yeah I already have the inspection plate off so all I need is a big *** breaker bar! My little air gun wont budge it at all...we will see how it goes tomorrow.

 

Or make one of these (if you're crank pulley has an internal hex opening)...

 

Well I finally got it off and it wasnt as difficult as I had thought. I had my wife hold a box ended wrench against the flywheel as I put my weight down on the cheater bar I had and it cracked loose. I suspect this isnt the first time this bolt has been removed since the timing belt and water pump looked brand new.
Since the water pump looked good, now I wonder what made it overheat in the first place! Thanks for the help guys.

 

U is lucky! I had to use an acetylene torch for 11 minutes then beat the hell outta it with a hammer then use a 650 ft-lbs gun to remove it. That finally did it after jumping on a 4 foot breaker bar and bending it.

 

Glad you got it off. I broke 3 sockets, 2 extensions and a damn ratchet taking mine off. Thank god they were Craftsmen, took them back and got brand new ones. Sears kicks ***.

 

I would still replace the water pump any way, It would suck to have it go bad later on, when you were right there and it is so easy to replace...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO. It is NOT reversed threaded.

Here is the best way to take it off.

Remove the flywheel inspection cover and jam the end of a bigger box end wrench between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing on the radiator side of the engine. When you go to loosen the bolt, this will jam the flywheel from spinning and it will do so safely, because of the diameter of the flywheel.

Then, just use a breaker bar and use all your might and pop it loose.

I don';t like using impacts on stubborn crank pulleys cause it sends a lot of vibration through the recirpocating assembly</TD></TR></TABLE>

i use the same method, but i'll use a huge flathead instead of a box wrench....!!!

 

I took two bars from my jacks and jammed them on to an already big *** breaker bar. It was about 4 1/2 feet long and it still took my buddy pulling and me pushing to break that damn thing off. It now seems that one of the jack bars will never come off.

 

high impact gun works as well! We tried the breaker bar, blocking the flywheel from moving, all that and no budging....

 

i need to take my b16a crank pully off and put it on my b18a... how would i go about doing it if my b16 doesnt hvae a flywheel on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20_EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">high impact gun works as well! We tried the breaker bar, blocking the flywheel from moving, all that and no budging....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried a high impact gun and didn't have any luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92BlackSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U is lucky! I had to use an acetylene torch for 11 minutes then beat the hell outta it with a hammer then use a 650 ft-lbs gun to remove it. That finally did it after jumping on a 4 foot breaker bar and bending it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

DAMN!!

 

Well, I finally found out what caused my overheating problem and it definitly wasnt the water pump!
While taking the head apart I was removing the heater inlet hose thats attached to the head and noticed that the end of the hose where it attaches to the head was kinda spongy feeling. I turned the hose over and there was the problem....a 1/2 inch cut in the hose. Damn 10 year old hoses!! lol I ordered all new water hoses today..what an expensive oversight on my part not to keep an eye on all water hoses. Lesson learned!

 

3/4" drive impact.

 

i wrote a whole topic about this yesterday, use a heating torch, some people will say to not do this but its ok...heat the bolt til its red, then it will simpily screw right off