My smog notice came in and I was wondering what you guys thought would be the best way to handlee it would be. My set up consists of I/H/E, carsound cat, crower 402a cams, VAFC, FPR, vision chipped p28, msd ignition, crower valvesprings and retainers, 30 thou milled head, mild p&p.

What do you guys think I would need to do to be able to pass besides putting my stock ECU back in. I figure my vafc shouln't have any effect on the test since it is only tunned for WOT, am I right? would I have to take out my cams? someone told me I could leave the cams in and do something with the timing and just make sure I don't drive hard while it is like that. Also, would the milled head or the mild p&p have any negative effects on the test? Has anyone passed with a similar set up as mine, and what measures did you take. And lastly has anyone ever passed the visual with a FPR painted flat black?

Any help would be appreciated I'm due in sept. so I am kind of stressing already.
Thanks.

 

Good Luck you might want to use your stock ecu and retard the timing a little bit

 

Thanks.

Any other suggestions?

 

youre gonna have to fully disconect the VAFC and with the milled head and cams...its not lookin good. you can try to retune your car without the VAFC and the stock ECU to run a perfect fuel/air mixture via FPR. go put on a stock cat with stock exhaust piping and muffler and make sure that youre cat is nice and heated when you go take the test. keep us posted on how it goes.

 

It all depends on where you smog it at. Some smog shops in daygo will pass smog without caring about visuals. Just as long as the sniffer passes you. i recommend stock header, cat and exhaust. Restriction is the best way to pass. Some of that guaranteed pass smog stuff you can buy at kragen might help a bit too. the cams you have are questionable. i dunno if crower cams will pass..are they carb legal?

 

this sucks..my smog notice should be coming soon and i have B20VTEC
sorry no info to help

 

get a stock honda cat take a small torch to it and get it glowing red.

 

Why would I have to take out the VAFC if the settings are stock exceeept for when it is under load or at WOT? Shouldn't I be able to even use it to my advantage to alter the A/F ratio?

I was also wondering if anyone has ever taken their car to a performance shop in SD and had them try to tune your car to an ideal 14.7:1 A/F ratio? I was thinking that if I could get my car on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor and tune it to a 14.7:1 A/F ratio at around 15mph and around 25mph wouldn't that make my car run hella clean?

I also forgot to mention that I have a skunk2 mani, and although I know that I can get the C.A.R.B number, I was also wondering if the mani itself would have an effect on the sniffer?

Thanks

 

from my experiance, the biggest factor is the stock exaust manafold and stock cat. The stock exaust manafold is cast iron w/ small piping, so it keeps the exaust gas hot. Basicly, you want to keep your exaust as hot as possible. If you put your car on a sniffer, you will see the HC's and NOx just drasticly drop w/ your carsound cat after about 10 seconds at 15mph. Why dont you do a prescreen first and see where you are at before spending all the money on **** you might not have to do.

 

Will the valvesprings have any affect when and if I do put my stock cams back in?

 

if you go to a smog place that is **** even on the visual part of the test..the VAFC will cause you to fail.

 

i can guarantee you to pass for a price.....email me if interested owner@d16a.org

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you go to a smog place that is **** even on the visual part of the test..the VAFC will cause you to fail.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how can the VAFC fail my visual if the VAFC is out of sight in my glove box?

 

i went thru the same situation as you in in san diego and my car was directed to a test only station to make things things worse i have 96 gsr in my 92 integra i only had a few options
1) put the stock motor back in (dont have one anymore )
2 ) find some who will pass it for the right price
3 ) sell the car
4 ) part the car out
5 ) smog it as it is see what they say

since i was running a itr tbody i was missing a few vacum lines and a sensor
my setup is
b18c1,itr cams ,spoon cam gears ,skunk 2 mainfold , vafc,FPR, greddy exhaust , aem cai, comptech itr header, itr tbody,carsound cat, a little less power setup than you , the port and polish wont affect smog , the crower 2s should be fine also as long as your idle is fine cause the major diffrence is the vtec lobes on ls motors the cams mess with smog at idle

my first place i went to the guy was a FOB and a dick , first off he told me that the motor didnt belong in a honda civic , after telling him its a acura a few minutes later he tests the car , he fails the visual bad , for the fpr , the missing vacum line , and even the intake (he sayed the carb numbers didnt mean crap ) he put tampred as the visaul inspection , he ran it on the dyno the car passed everything fine besides the nox where to high max was 807 and i was at 1234 at 15 mph and 823 max is 707 at 25 mph i was running the stock ecu and the timing was at 17tdc

you didnt mention what intake or header u where running ? some headers like the dc dont heat up quick for smog like the stock ,

my second test i took it to a nother place talked to the guy he sayed as long as my stuff has carb numbers im fine ( everthing did besides the FPR) the valve cover was cut and you could see the cam gears i think he didnt car as long as passed the sniffer this is what i did to pass
- new carsound cat (if you have been running a chipped ecu they dump fuel and can kill the cat easy )
- new ngk plugs
- some of that gaureented to pass emmisions stuff ( drove around a full tank so the stuff would go thru the gas tank)
- 3 bottles of iso heet gas antifreze ( a tip i found on another site )
- retarded the timing to 14 tdc
drove the car on the freeway keep it in high rpms for about 10 mins (let the car warm up )
-fuel pressure was set at 40 with the hose on
- stock ecu
final results i passed easy nox was 502 at 15mph max was 807, and 15 at 25mph max was 707 car was running super clean

about the vafc most people dont know what it is mine is right below the stereo ,if yours is in the glove box your fine , and the skunk2 mainfold looks stock , but it is carb legal now
try this if your car fails
look into
-new o2 sensors
- new distributer and coil
-lean out with vafc
if you have anymore question u cam PM me good luck

 

Damn, I'm glad I live in Kansas. No smog check or anything!

Anyway, a guy over at G2IC concocted an interesting method to pass smog. It's almost guaranteed. Right before you go to get smogged, add 2 or 3 bottles of HEET or some other alcohol based fuel stabilizer. Make sure you have about 1/4 tank or less to increase the concentration.

The high alcohol content in HEET causes your engine to lean out, but because alcohol doesn't burn as hot as petroleum, it will resist detonation. Alcohol burns much cleaner than petroleum, so every measured exhaust gas will be drastically lower. It will not harm your engine at all, but I'd keep it below 4000 RPM to be safe. As a plus, you're getting rid of all the water that sits in the bottom of your gas tank.

Try this and all the timing tricks as well as the stock exhaust manifold. I'd imagine you're smog test results would be similar to a stock GSR...

 

Good luck...

smog tests are a bitch. I hope i pass mine...

 

bump for good info

 

yeah the heet tip was from member xdeep on g2ic , i did help me out with the other stuff helped also

 

thanks for the help. I'll lwt you guys know what happens.

 

Move to AZ where the sun burns hot...and you can swap into your Honda...an Sr20dett...and get it smogged...no problem

Getting a major swap to pass smog in CA, is like marrying a princess.....that **** aint happening...

 

could you just run some serious c16 race gas instead of this heet stuff.

same basic princable. slower burning.resisting detonation.

 

i think slower burning might lead to less burnt which leads to not passing.....?
one trick is to run *lower octane* (not higher ie race gas) which burns faster but more complete....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10K2HVN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think slower burning might lead to less burnt which leads to not passing.....?
one trick is to run *lower octane* (not higher ie race gas) which burns faster but more complete....</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldn't running anything lower than 91 oct. on a gs-r with a milled head be kind of pushing it? or would it be ok to put in 1/4 tank of 89 just for the smog and then fill right after with 91?

 

bump

can anyone answer my last ?

 

yeah you will be fine with 87 or 89 with a quarter of a tank of gas or more , when you retard the timing a few degres that lowers emmisions and also will let you run lower octane the drawback is that you have less performance , if you had advanced timing you would need 91 octane all day to be safe and some octane booster once in awhile with high compression and milled head