everything was fine before and i had the ecu already socketed and ready for the hondata. i am pretty sure i set everything up right , but i can't get the ecu to throw the code or codes? the check light just stays on with no flashes. what could be wrong?

'95 ls motor and ecu is what i have. i bought the hondata from a local guy on h-t and he had the hondata setup for 3 bar map and 440 injectors. all i did with my already socketed ecu was install the 4 pin socket for the interface cable and install the 28 pin chip that he had burned. i don't know if the 20 pin that was already in there has to be changed out? because i only got the 28 pin. is it important that i also get the 20 pin that was in his ecu because it may have something to do with the 28?

thanks for any input.


Modified by not so civic at 3:33 AM 7/13/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by not so civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everything was fine before and i had the ecu already socketed and ready for the hondata. i am pretty sure i set everything up right , but i can't get the ecu to throw the code or codes? the check light just stays on with no flashes. what could be wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Generally this means there is a bad rom or no Rom in the socket. Are you using a chip or a Romulator? Is it a S200?

 

it is a s200. and when i got it, the only other thing i got was the 28 pin that was in his ecu. i had a chip in previously so i had all that stuff squared away. both setups are stock compression b18b1's with basically max rev kits.

 

Make sure it is the version 3 ROM for the S200. So you had this ROM chip before?

 

no i didn't have this rom chip before. i bought it from a guy who had the hondata and also a b18b1 with max rev. i didn't get his ecu...i just got his 28 pin rom chip that was in there that he was using. it's the anodized blue box. so i think this is the older one but what i don't get is why it won't work in mine and it was supposedly fine before he took it out of his car.

 

Modified by not so civic at 8:12 AM 7/14/2003

 

you need 2 capacitors, 1 resistor, the 20 pin chip and the 28 pin chip and you need to bridge the j1 jumper. if you just put the chip in your ecu it will not work.

 

Fisrt of all You don't need the capacitors.

Is the light on the interface box flashing or solid.

It is possible that when you removed stuf from your ecu that you lifted a track.

If the other person had a p28 and you have a p74/p75, and you are using the same rom he was using, then vtec has probably not been disabled in the rom. Best bet is to take it to a Hondata dealer and let them diagnose the issue.

 

why dont you need the capacitors?

 

The s200 units don't require that you use the capacitors unlike the older units. It is also recommended that you cut the j12 jumper on p28 ECU's.

 

i have all the cap's and res's in and the jumper. i know i did it right i had the uberchip in there and it worked fine. all i did was take the 28 pin out the socket and put in the burn that was setup for three bar and 440's tuned to 14 psi. besides that i installed the 4 pin socket for the interface cable that i had to build. i know that the cable is right. when i turn the ignition on, the red light on box flashed twice i think and stayed on solid. this was from a p75 to a p75. all i got from the other p75 was the 28 pin rom chip. his 20 pin was soldered in and not socketed. does that have anything to do with it? that is what i need to know. i already have one in my ecu, but i didn't get that one that was in his ecu.

 

i only have the red dash set button hooked up. i don't have the red led in with the check light but that shouldn't matter should it?

 

if the hondata light is staying on solid after start up, then it is working fine. Try hooking up a stock map sensor, I'm fairly certain that is the source of the problem. I think your rom image was burned for a stock map sensor. I've done that accidentally before and it gave very similar results as you (no code, very rough idle, cel on)

 

thanks a lot john. i'll try that out. and just to make sure, i have the green/blue wire from civic harness map as the ground. the pink/white wire is the signal? and i have the yel/grn for the voltage?

 

Modified by not so civic at 10:26 PM 7/13/2003

 

i just tried the stock map and runs the same. i got the ecu to throw a code 5...map sensor. i don't know what to do. the car idles the same with either map sensor. the three bar was a brand new map sensor.

 

ok i had two of the map wires mixed up...the signal and the ground. but the car did flood when i was running the car with basically no map. the plugs are black as night and the car hesitates and runs like absolute horseshit. if i fouled the plugs would it cause this hesitation? they are gapped at .030. you guys think just changing the plugs will help me out? thanks for any input.


Modified by not so civic at 2:12 PM 7/14/2003

 

yeap, try cleaning/changing the plugs

 

fmu's are the best hahahaha

 

i tried new plugs but it still hesitates and drives like ****. the more throttle i give it, the less it wants to go. if i floor it, it does nothing. and when i come to a stop the idle is really low and sometimes it stalls out. not sure what to do this is my daily driver. if i throttle slow it will stumble a little bit but then it will somewhat go but i have to be really easy on it???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by not so civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried new plugs but it still hesitates and drives like ****. the more throttle i give it, the less it wants to go. if i floor it, it does nothing. and when i come to a stop the idle is really low and sometimes it stalls out. not sure what to do this is my daily driver. if i throttle slow it will stumble a little bit but then it will somewhat go but i have to be really easy on it???</TD></TR></TABLE>

take it to be tuned already!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VaporTrail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

take it to be tuned already! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm at that conclusion also.

 

turbo tune http://www.turbotuneusltd.com/ he is great, he made me go crazy 100 hr tuned and dyno it will probably take him 2 to 3 hours