ok, just wasted $411 today...
went to the dyno + wideband, hoping to get the a/f ratio issue squared away...

well, the car's 99 accord 4cyl (f23a1) with drag 4 kit with afc hack with dsm450cc's...running 9psi...

the tuner was able to tune the low vtec map on afc, but he could not control idle...he said changes he makes on the afc had no effect on the a/f...the same thing also happened to high vtec map, meaning that it was going 15.7:1 after 5000rpm...

oh, also on the low vtec map, he said the a/f ratio was changing everytime he runs it on the dyno...

he said changes he's making on vafc had absolutely no bearing on the resulting a/f ratio...at first, he suspected that my MAP sensor was shot, but i pointed out that even after 5000rpm the vacuum reading on afc was staying constant...so we threw that idea away...
and then he said "i really don't know...but i think there's something wrong with the car"
i mean, can you feel my pain? this is at a very reputable shop in northern va. region...he couldn't even suggest a solution for my problem and he charged me $411!!! wtf!

it's really freaking weird and it's pissing me off...
granted the tuner did what he can, why would afc only affect a/f ratio on low map?
any ideas?

i seriously need some help on this ppl...thanks

 

oh by the way, to sum it all up, i wasted 411 dollars for a half assed tuning without any solution for the problem which i face.

and the problem is that i can't get afc to control anything beyond 5000rpm.

 

come on, does ANYONE has any clue what may be happening???

 

honsetly when i ran the afc hack this seemed to be the same idea... no matter how much i changed the afc around, the car still felt the same (never had the afc hack widebanded). I concluded that it was a wiring error on my behalf, double check all your wiring, make sure every wire is correctly soldered to the corresponding ecu wires.

sorry about the wasting of the money, keep ur head up and better luck next time around

-ryan

 

i just don't get it people... you spend $3000-$5000 dollars on a turbo setup and count less amounts of money on the dyno and u tune of a v-afc/s-afc hack or not come on get a better tuner and by a standalone its mention millions of times but still the same excuse i don't have the money... a good tuner and a good standalone= i just went to the dyno today of my hondata and 11.5psi (car drives like a stock boosted car) 12.2-11.9 across the board... i know what your going threw i had a 12:1 fmu and v-afc and its straight up bullshit!!!

 

how much power did ur car put down?

-ryan

 

look, if i was able to install hondata, i would have already...my car/engine's not listed in the application chart of hondata website...i have heard rumors that it may work eventhough it's not in the application list (as long as i convert it to obd1, then use p28 or p72 depending on the # of runners on my intake manifold?). aem ems is another and i'm seriously considering it, but since noone around here seems to know how to effectively tune ems, i've decided that afc hack was the best route for me...

anyways...
i could not make any adjustments in HVT map, because any changes had no effects on the a/f curve (wideband). in LVT map, i made 210some pounds of torque at 2800rpm...as for hp numbers, it only went up to 150 at the end of LVT map which was about 4800rpm...
still have no idea what's wrong with afc...i'll have 2x check on the wiring...or goto inlinepro and see what they know...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9psiTurboSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just don't get it people... you spend $3000-$5000 dollars on a turbo setup and count less amounts of money on the dyno and u tune of a v-afc/s-afc hack or not come on get a better tuner and by a standalone its mention millions of times but still the same excuse i don't have the money... a good tuner and a good standalone= i just went to the dyno today of my hondata and 11.5psi (car drives like a stock boosted car) 12.2-11.9 across the board... i know what your going threw i had a 12:1 fmu and v-afc and its straight up bullshit!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, I don't get you...what kind of jackhole pays 3-5k for a turbo set up not including management? I'm sitting at well under 2k WITH an afc and 6btm...I don't think there is anyone on here that paid even close to 5k that isn't running hondata/haltech, etc. The people that run the afc are the people who can't afford that. In any case, this isn't solving his problem, so way to be an ***.

in any case, I would not have paid them goddamned $411 dollars. I would check all my wires for the afc, check your map/tps voltages and then go back and tell them that they owe you a couple hours, or that they need to give your money back. You paid for tuning, they didn't change anything.

 

y<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, I don't get you...what kind of jackhole pays 3-5k for a turbo set up not including management? I'm sitting at well under 2k WITH an afc and 6btm...I don't think there is anyone on here that paid even close to 5k that isn't running hondata/haltech, etc. The people that run the afc are the people who can't afford that. In any case, this isn't solving his problem, so way to be an ***.

in any case, I would not have paid them goddamned $411 dollars. I would check all my wires for the afc, check your map/tps voltages and then go back and tell them that they owe you a couple hours, or that they need to give your money back. You paid for tuning, they didn't change anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ALL im trying to say is do it righ the first time and don't cut corners... By the time he gets his car running good he probably would have payed as much as just getting a standalone.... ive done 2 sessions of hondata tuning and both together don't add up to $411 dollars... all i got to say is think about it half the post on this FI page is about hondata and how they love.... how there car runs and power they made then before... im not trying to be a ***

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ash.zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">come on, does ANYONE has any clue what may be happening???</TD></TR></TABLE>

what's your fuel pressure and your high settings?

when i had my car tuned on the dyno, at -32% and lower it would run so rich it'll foul the plugs but the strange thing was that it gave a lean afr reading. after a few tweaks we lean it out to -39% and got the afr to a steady 11.5 afr. and the power keeps climbing without and sign of dropping off.

I'm using: dsm450s, stock fuel pump, stock regulator.
here's my dyno chart. i can't get my afr to display correctly in the runviewer program.

 

hmmm...everyone's hacking you up for running the hack. i didn't have any probs on mine except that i was running way too rich before tuning. after tuning i have great a/f ratio and great hp/tq numbers. my tuner got me 25 extra hp from my corrections that i originally came in with.

as for those folks that bash the hack...my car runs smoothly like stock and i spent less than $300 on safc, resistor box, clips, and btm. $150 on tuning. do that with hondata, ems, or anyother standalone...especially if you have obd2.

don't get me wrong, hondata and ems are great, but stop killing the man for running the hack and try to help the man.

double check your wires and cross refrence them with a helms or haynes manual to make sure you have the correct ones...a lot of people read the plug backwards. if you have a newer car you need a resistor box if you don't already have one...if you don't this could be your problem and your injector driver may already be fried. is this tuner familiar with tuning the "hack"?

 

...also, btw, i readjusted my throttle cable (1/4 inch deflection) and then adjusted my idle. idles like stock running the hack.

 

thanks all for the help!

i was running vafc even before the turbo...it was working great, but i guess i could have pulled a wire or something...so i need to double check the wiring again...

as for the fuel setup, i'm running dsm450cc's, resistor pack, obd1 clip, stock fuel pump and stock fpr...

also, we pulled the plugs out during the dyno session and realized that it was black with carbon deposits around the bottom (sign of running rich) while the tip of the electrode was white (running lean)...

so i called up economy autoparts and got a set of stock plugs for my car...now i have to order 1 step colder plugs and because chances are that the one i put in yesterday's fouled already...

i think i decided on the next action...
to double check the wiring of vafc and hit a better shop...
any suggestion for sohc honda turbo setups around northern va. area?
thanks all!

9PsiTurboSi: i'm not trying to cut corners here...it's just that aem ems has not proven it's worth for boosted f23a accord and hondata is not available...so i'm very limited in my choice...which is either drag standard inline pump and fmu or vafc hack...so chose the hack...i hope i have conveyed my thought to you correctly...once again, i repeat, i do not cut corners...only reason why i do my car work by myself is because i want to learn more...that's all...

 

Confirm you have very good and solid ground connections to the unit. I've seen spotty grounds cause the kinds of problems you describe. If you or your tuner have access to datalogging equipment or an oscilloscope, confirm that the MAP reading at the sensor makes sense and matches what the AFC is reading.

 

jay....dump the afc hack and save for an aem ems.
of all the people i have seen and know that use the afc hack..i can honestly say..that it works for some people.i had initailly tried it with my setup and it didnt work..barely even driveable.

hit me up on aol....if you got questions

 

the p28 is a sohc 92-95 civic obd1 ecu
the p72 is a dohc 94-95 gsr obd1 ecu