Which is the suggested head bolt to use for usdm b18c5 head on to jdm b18c block, and if you use ARP, which catalog # is the right one:

208 4303 is b18c1 #
208 4306 is b16a head on to b20 block

Does everybody torque OEM head bolt to factory manual specs, and what about ARP if you use them?

Or?

 

you want the gsr studs, tourqe them to arp spec, i beleif its 65ft/lbs.

 

sorry, meant to say studs...how about best place to buy them = Summit? or??

 

i got mine from summit, under 100bucks, reuseable too.
jsut be sure you have a 12pt 1/2inch deep socket.
-stadard

 

What is wrong with the STOCK Bolts?

I thought you only needed to use ARP Studs if you were going with much higher Compression or FI or if you plan to remove the head frequently

 

stock bolts can only be used one time

 

yes, and i am at ll.8 compression - may do other mods later too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20bastard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock bolts can only be used one time</TD></TR></TABLE>

says who??

many people on the board have used their head bolts for than once, i reused mine.

ARP bolts are torqued down less than stock.. does that sound safe?

 

could be mistaken, but i think that is what the factory manual says

 

well, i have spoken to a lot of people, and even tho the head gasket appeared to be on right - and i checked it 9 ways to sunday (as they used to say), i think it must be that it was put in reversed............all the main oil sources good and dry, and no water to be seen in the enormous oil downs, and NO water or oil coming out the exhaust...i feel so stupid and should be able to report on all this wed evening if i can get to it with my sorry hand tools!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ruby Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be mistaken, but i think that is what the factory manual says</TD></TR></TABLE>

My helms said *nothing* about not re-using the bolts on a B18A1.

I re-used my 186,000 mile head bolts on a m00gen gassket w/ zero problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My helms said *nothing* about not re-using the bolts on a B18A1.

I re-used my 186,000 mile head bolts on a m00gen gassket w/ zero problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There ya go..

 

The problem with using stock bolts is that they stretch a lot more than studs. They are only really good for 3 torques. Which means if you use your factory bolts, you can only reuse them 2 more times. After they are torque again, they lose any elasticity and will eventually not hold evenly and fail. I'd rather spend 100 on some ARP studs and reuse them if needed. Plus they are stronger and made to stretch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzSi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem with using stock bolts is that they stretch a lot more than studs. They are only really good for 3 torques. Which means if you use your factory bolts, you can only reuse them 2 more times. After they are torque again, they lose any elasticity and will eventually not hold evenly and fail. I'd rather spend 100 on some ARP studs and reuse them if needed. Plus they are stronger and made to stretch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Stronger and made to Stretch"... does that make sense? if its stronger wouldn't it not stretch?

And also you can't reuse ARP as many times as you want.

And they torque down as much as OEM bolts

Can never go wrong with OEM.

 

yes, made to stretch a certain amount. read this for more http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/fastener.html

If I were to get new bolts now, I would probably get the AEBS ones, they have a different design and are bigger, stronger, and use a different threading design http://www.aebsracing.com/prod...studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzSi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, made to stretch a certain amount. read this for more http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/fastener.html

If I were to get new bolts now, I would probably get the AEBS ones, they have a different design and are bigger, stronger, and use a different threading design http://www.aebsracing.com/prod...studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

But WHY??? We all realize that a lot of race engines ie F1 and other profeesional race engines. Engines that are rebuilt quiet frequently in some cases after every race.
Why your the average person need headbolts like this on a daily driver?
Truth is Stock head bolts are perfect for MOST of the applications here. FI I can understand if you were getting something stronger but you'd have to be running a whole lot of boost.

 

Why? More accurate torques and more consistent pressure on the headgasket. If you are tearing down your motor, usually it means it won't end up being in a stock application.

 

Right , But point being that most people build their engines and it's NOT to the point where the STOCK bolts will not work just FINE.

I am building my engine with After market parts and when I asked a very well known tuner/builder he said what is wrong with the Stock ones? So even in his opinion the Stock bolts are going to work fine. If you plaN to tear your engine apart a few more times and go with FI or extremely high compression then I could see the upgrade being warranted.

The Title suggest that you are putting a Type R head on a B18c Block (basically a Stock setup) You didn't say what application you would use them for and didn't say anything about how heavily you will mod the engine. Most people don't mod their engines (daiily Drivers) heavily enough to warrant switching to ARP Studs.
I found it more tedious to reassemble a block with Studs VS one using Head Bolts. You must have the head perfectly straight when lowering it back on the block so that the studs will not catch the walls of the head. We have used Stock Bolts on a 210 WHP B18c Engine and never had a problem.

Point I am trying to amke is that the Stock Bolts will serve Most applications so long as you don't take apart the engine often and so long as you are not running High pressure FI or High Compression NA. You didn't specify so... But if you are dead set on using the Studs More power to ya

 

I never said you couldn't use them, I just prefer studs over bolts. Plus, like what was said above, you can only reuse them so many times. You can reuse the studs at least 3 times more. Its preference really, I would use either or whatever they person wanted to use, but I would rather use a stud.

 

compression ratio 11.8 on this motor with perhaps toda b or jun iii's to come...