Here's the problem, my right side caster is within spec but at one of the extremes and I have a Prelude Type-SH and the caster is only adjustable by replacing the radius rod. Honda does provide 3 different radius rod lengths and I've tried them all, though I'm able to get my caster within spec it's at the extreme and still pulls to the right. Now, my question is if I had a shop heat the radius rod and straighten it a little bit (effectively making it longer) how much of a safety issue would this be? I don't know how much load the radius rod sees.

Note: I haven't tried adjusting the subframe since I have no way of checking the alignment of the subframe afterward. Which would be a better idea?

 

On my Hondas, you can stack washers on the engine side at the base of the threads like spacers and move your caster from higher to lower. Can a 'Lude not do so?

 

I know nothing of the late-gen Preludes. But here's some info.

- EG, possibly EK, and definitely DC2 chassis can gain 3 deg of caster by swapping the front upper control arms side to side. Moves the upper ball joint back.

- Corey had a problem with CV joints in his 92-96 Prelude when he did this, so it might not work for your last-gen car

 

Sadly, I can't put washers on the ends due to the design (only on the Type-SH though, the base you can). I can't swap the radius rods from side to side, they would have the same problem as corey had. The only options that I can see at this point is either to live with it, heat it up and bend it, or take it to a body shop and have them mess around with the subframe hoping that they can get the caster to match close enough on both sides so it won't drift anymore. I'm trying to stay away from the last one since it'll be the most expensive.

 

have you had a good 4 wheel alignment? The caster is different on my right and left wheels and my car doesnt pull, and I run LOTS of toe out in the front.

ps. he didnt swap the radius rods, he swapped the upper control arms.

 

What is your actual caster numbers..? Then we can tell you either to fix it, or leave it alone.. If it is within .5 degree of each other, I wouldn't bother..

 

Why is it off to begin with? Accident? Crazy suspension lowering?

 

My car was wrecked by its previous owner and I discovered the caster was off from side to side, and after checking everything, we narrowed the problem down to either a bent upright (knuckle), or bent lower control arm on the RF corner. I replaced both with used parts and now the I'm within .25 deg from side to side.

 

hmm.. maybe the knuckle is the problem with the caster difference in my GSR. I replaced the RF lower control arm and that didn't change anything. I have a 1.1 deg. difference in caster after hitting a really big pot hole with the RF wheel. My car has been pulling since, even after several wheel alignments, and it takes left and right turns differently.
A frame & axle shop wanted to change the hub, the knuckle and the LCA at the same time but I knew it had to be 1, maybe 2 things, not 3, so I walked away. They said they usually replace all 3 in most Hondas with a caster problem. Maybe I 'll get hold of a used one. It was also suggested that a have a bent subframe but I won't know until I spend the money to put it on the frame machine. I 've been to 3-4 race shops and noone could tell me what was wrong even after measuring from different suspension points. Why are caster problems so hard to troubleshoot I wonder..

 

Also the knuckle was my last choice, because it looks so much stronger and is thicker in diameter than the upper control arms in my g3 Teg. I would think the shock would bend first (in my situation - hitting a pot hole) and then maybe the upper arm. The knuckle just seems too sturdy. I 'm getting to the point where I 'm willing to replace anything now so this problem can go away. You 're not alone TimeRacer.

 

I had previously got into an accident where I had to replace the lower sub frame, LCA, radius rod, swaybar endlink and rim. I don't think it's the knuckle since the body shop should of taken a look at that when I brought it in. I'll go check to see though... I'll also need to go find the paperwork for it to find the caster numbers. Should have it up shortly.

 

My car parked itself into a tree a few years ago. My LF wheel is visibly 1/2 inch back from where it should sit. After looking over the service manual, fighting with the body shop, trying an adjustable ball joint... it's still funky. The EM1 has absolutely no castor adjustment whatsoever

I found a site in australia that may help some of you all out: http://www.whiteline.com.au/
They have a few castor/camber combo kits available that look really nice.