wooh! cam install 95% complete
ummm it ticks
i expected it since i didnt do a valve adjustment but i will do it soon as i can.
i dont think i bent any valves though since the idle is fine, it doesnt fluctuate theres no dips in power. i havent however stepped on the gas that hard since the ticking is scaring me.
i expected it since i didnt do a valve adjustment but i will do it soon as i can.
i dont think i bent any valves though since the idle is fine, it doesnt fluctuate theres no dips in power. i havent however stepped on the gas that hard since the ticking is scaring me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm it ticks
i expected it since i didnt do a valve adjustment but i will do it soon as i can.
i dont think i bent any valves though since the idle is fine, it doesnt fluctuate theres no dips in power. i havent however stepped on the gas that hard since the ticking is scaring me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Valve clearance. You gotta perform a valve adjustment.
Peace of cake and the butt dyno will notice it.
You did torque all the cam caps back to spec right?
i expected it since i didnt do a valve adjustment but i will do it soon as i can.
i dont think i bent any valves though since the idle is fine, it doesnt fluctuate theres no dips in power. i havent however stepped on the gas that hard since the ticking is scaring me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Valve clearance. You gotta perform a valve adjustment.
Peace of cake and the butt dyno will notice it. You did torque all the cam caps back to spec right?
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im a paranoid *** about breaking stuff so i wanted things to be just right. the thing that took me the most is making sure its at TDC.
as for the timing belt, someone said something about theres a rubber plug that i can take out to access it and i did that. the problem with this is that its still hard to access with a ratchet. so i took things off, ps tank, ps assembly, cruise control and i was even going to take out the a/c since the belt is getting in the way. i also tried to take out the driver side engine mount which i later found out didnt have to be taken off. so now i cant put it back on, problem after another eh? anyone know how to get the 2 mounting holes to line up?
the t-belt is tension on the intake side but loose on the exhaust side gear so i have to look into that, any suggestions?
i hope i didnt **** up the installtion, i drove it around for a while but i was scared to rev it up because of the noise, i imagine the cam caps flying off and punturing through the valve cover.
as for the cams, toda c
but in reality, CTR intake and exhaust cam
as for the timing belt, someone said something about theres a rubber plug that i can take out to access it and i did that. the problem with this is that its still hard to access with a ratchet. so i took things off, ps tank, ps assembly, cruise control and i was even going to take out the a/c since the belt is getting in the way. i also tried to take out the driver side engine mount which i later found out didnt have to be taken off. so now i cant put it back on, problem after another eh? anyone know how to get the 2 mounting holes to line up?
the t-belt is tension on the intake side but loose on the exhaust side gear so i have to look into that, any suggestions?
i hope i didnt **** up the installtion, i drove it around for a while but i was scared to rev it up because of the noise, i imagine the cam caps flying off and punturing through the valve cover.
as for the cams, toda c
but in reality, CTR intake and exhaust cam
You either need a helms or need to pay someone to do this for you so you can watch.
1 - you need a jack under the oil pan (w/ a block of wood) to get hte motor in proper position
2 - you dont need to take half that chit off
3 - always always always do a valve adjustment w/ new timing belt or cams
4 - you need to pull on the tensioner to get it 'tight' while you tighten the tensioner bolt. Run it like that and the cam is going to skip a tooth or belt is gonna break.
1 - you need a jack under the oil pan (w/ a block of wood) to get hte motor in proper position
2 - you dont need to take half that chit off
3 - always always always do a valve adjustment w/ new timing belt or cams
4 - you need to pull on the tensioner to get it 'tight' while you tighten the tensioner bolt. Run it like that and the cam is going to skip a tooth or belt is gonna break.
1. i got a helms for a 84 integra and it doesnt go over techniques on how to put the mount on
2. no way around it unless i have super skinny arms and tools to take off the crank bolt for the lower t-belt cover to be removed. the mistake i did make is taking off the engine mount.
3. ill be doing the valve adjustment soon, before then the car will be sitting
4. yeah ill give that a try, how can you tell if your "off a tooth" and how can this be fixed? im also going to check my ignition timing to see if that is affected it any ways.
thanks guys!
2. no way around it unless i have super skinny arms and tools to take off the crank bolt for the lower t-belt cover to be removed. the mistake i did make is taking off the engine mount.
3. ill be doing the valve adjustment soon, before then the car will be sitting
4. yeah ill give that a try, how can you tell if your "off a tooth" and how can this be fixed? im also going to check my ignition timing to see if that is affected it any ways.
thanks guys!
If you're off a tooth the car will run like chit and the cams wont line up properly... even if they line up the crank could be off a tooth. If you've been futzing with it, it wouldnt be a bad idea to pull the crank bolt/lower cover off and take a look. Only takes 10 minutes if everything else is off.
if only if i had an impact gun. i did the install bymelf and my hands are all cut up from wrenching for a couple of days. the only time i was able to work on my car was late in the evening.
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