ROD KNCOK crank work needed or just new bearings?
okay. i just dropped a b16a in my 91 teg. it ran fine at first but throwing a code 22 due to a wiring problem. with that fixed and no codes present i drove to see if vtec would crossover. it didnt. so i checked oil again. its full. now i can hear a slight knock when i first start the car. it seems like after the motor gets oil pressure it kinda drops off and goes silent. but when i would rev just a little (like to 2500-3000rpm) i could hear a knock from the bottom-end. i am saying its a rod knock. it seems very slight at the moment and i am not going to drive it anymore.
1) how much damage do you think has been caused?
2) could i just put new bearings in it and if doesnt knock or seize up i am good right?
3) do you think i will need the crank reground?
any opinions greatly appreciated.
1) how much damage do you think has been caused?
2) could i just put new bearings in it and if doesnt knock or seize up i am good right?
3) do you think i will need the crank reground?
any opinions greatly appreciated.
I also have a B16A (sirII) but in a 95si ...i can hear soft knocking from inside the car but when i go to the engine baby i can't hear it (hmmmmm) i wonder if its the same knocking you have, but my ecu isn't throwing any codes, does this mean its nothing? i knoe its not my valves because those tick but these are knocking noise, i can only hear it at idle thoe.... car seems to run fine i had it in for about 1yr as is with no tunning =P
I notice a huge difference at the track thoe my friend has a dx with b16a cable and i have the b16a hydro he runs low 14's and im barely breaking mid 15's, somethings gotta be wrong but still no ecu codes that tell me nothing (?)
I notice a huge difference at the track thoe my friend has a dx with b16a cable and i have the b16a hydro he runs low 14's and im barely breaking mid 15's, somethings gotta be wrong but still no ecu codes that tell me nothing (?)
DAMN!!! That sucks. My 95 GSR's in the shop right now for that same problem. I thought it was valve knock, but it turned out I destroyed my Rod Bearings, and the crank was worn from heat (I was an idiot and kept driving though...my motor seized
). Now I'm lookin at either a complete shortblock swap, or pay labor to rebuild the shortblock with a new crank, rod bearings, water pump, 1 new rod, and all new piston rings, head gasket, timing belt, valve job, and resurface the head. It's not cheap. My oil light was flashing, and VTEC didn't cross over at time of damage either.
). Now I'm lookin at either a complete shortblock swap, or pay labor to rebuild the shortblock with a new crank, rod bearings, water pump, 1 new rod, and all new piston rings, head gasket, timing belt, valve job, and resurface the head. It's not cheap. My oil light was flashing, and VTEC didn't cross over at time of damage either.
If it knocks while cranking/at initial startup and then gets quieter after it warms up... I say spun rod bearing/a rod bearing will soon spin.
Either way the crank/rod will have to be machined or replaced, and new bearings installed. Journal surfaces will be damaged.
Either way the crank/rod will have to be machined or replaced, and new bearings installed. Journal surfaces will be damaged.
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All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Jun 28, 2003 09:03 AM




