Here's my dyno graph from June 26, 2003. We were comparing the benefits of the Hondata tuning vs. an APEX-i VAFC. Note that these were done on a Dynojet and the temperature difference was almost 25 degrees (100F Hondata vs. 74F VAFC).


The Setup
- Full port and polish (head and throttle body)
- Fully balanced bottom end
- Knife-edge crank
- High compression (12.1:1) Wiseco forged pistons and wrist pins

Mugen Valve Springs
Mugen 4-1 Header
Mugen Twin Loop Exhaust
Mugen Thermostat
Spoon Radiator Hose set
AEM Cold air intake
AEM Pulleys
AEM Cam gear

Transmission
JDM 4.785 Final Drive Gear set
Mugen LSD
Exedy Hyper Single Clutch/Flywheel

Engine/Fuel/Ignition Management
Hondata s200
RC Engineering 310cc injectors
STR Competition fuel rail
Fuel pressure regulator
MSD Ignition amplifier
Crane PS92 coil

 

I`d start with a better header and exhaust. Jo0 need 2.5" all the way back.

edit: not too shabby for stocker cams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I know that there are plenty of other setups that would put down more power...but I'm just another case of JDM whoreism at its worst.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> We were comparing the benefits of the Hondata tuning vs. an APEX-i VAFC</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see any difference. who tuned the hondata?

 

which is which? red is vafc and blue hondata? or other way around...

 

Sorry guys...
Blue is the Hondata and Red is the VAFC

Not much of a difference? I think its a pretty big difference considering that there is a 25 degree increase in temperature from the Blue to Red graph.

 

IF they are both SAE corrected number, then it should not make a difference if it is hotter.

 

I thought SAE adjustment took temperature into account. Is this correct?

 

for the TQ numbers i cant even tell which is blue and which is red... is it just me??

but i really dont think they tuned it right...or maybe thats all there is to be had. if the later case is true then i think the hondata was a waste of money in all honesty. your TQ numbers are almost identical. and the only place where you really picked up better results were from 7.5 to 8.5 on the hp curve....

maybe try going to another dyno tuner, where are you located?

 

Well, we are not looking at a stock vs. Hondata comparison here. It is a finely tuned VAFC dyno graph compared to the Hondata. The VAFC was tuned via MoTeC air/fuel meter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafay2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IF they are both SAE corrected number, then it should not make a difference if it is hotter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. And the graph says SAE corrected. Possibly the excuse the tuner used

 

Of course there are many Hondata tuners out there that would bring out more power, but I am pretty satisfied to see 193 whp out of the stock cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Of course there are many Hondata tuners out there that would bring out more power, but I am pretty satisfied to see 193 whp out of the stock cams. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I made no comment about the power you are putting down, but that is not much difference. There should be more.

Hell George puts down 191 (and it's not tuned for peak, likely of close to 200 or more) with less mods than you have.

Newer motor though, but even with the slight cam difference I don't think it's that big of a difference imo.

If you have the chance, get the car to a more experienced tuner with your application.. especially when you get Toda C's. Just take it to Steve (sGT) or Yack

 

i think trying a new tuner would probably net you better gains? the hondata looks pretty jagged compared to the vafc.. so i'm sure betting adjustments can be made

 

Ditch the Mugen thermostat.

FYI - Mugen valvesprings are just ITR valvesprings.

With 12:1 comp, and Hondata, you should be near 200.

Warren

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

With 12:1 comp, and Hondata, you should be near 200.

Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>

true but with 86mm bore and jun 3s he'll be near 300

LOL

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=150679

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafay2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IF they are both SAE corrected number, then it should not make a difference if it is hotter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It does, SAE corrected cannot factor in the effect that heat soak has on the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by canuck-mx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It does, SAE corrected cannot factor in the effect that heat soak has on the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but we also have no idea what conditions the pulls were made under. The VAFC pull could have been the 5th, or 6th, or 9th pull of the day. The Hondata is pull 10, made almost a year later. How can we say the motor was more heat soaked for that run just based on ambiant temp?

 

Sorry...the pull is not #10. It was #4.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry...the pull is not #10. It was #4.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are listed as DYNORUN.009 and DYNORUN.010.. did the guy just pick numbers at random?

 

good job man
u can do better

 

as stated by others.....

cams and header/exhaust will make alot more gains.

nice though

 

not bad numbers...but like everyones saying get some better cams and a better exhaust set-up and you'll see more gains