Seeing as we don't have power windows, power locks, or any stuff like that. Other then the motion sensor to set the alarm off, wouldn't the only other logical thing to wire the alarm into is the domelight when a door opens?

If it is the best way to make the alarm go off, can you explain why the (-) is needed, why a relay is also required, and how I would wire that for the dome?

Shouldn't the motion detector go off when a door is opened and be enough?

Because what about the hatch, my dome light doesn't come on when i open the hatch...is that just me? What would I do for the hatch other then motion detector.

My second question is, does the ignition have to be spliced into, or is that only if you don't want the car to start when the system is armed. Or is it some technicality where if you don't you have fubared.

 

I dont know much about wiring for alarms but I do know that they do hook it up to your dome light to trigger it. As for needing the (-) and the relay I have no idea??!! But for your rear hatch you can add a sensor back there to if it is open the alarm will also go off I dont know if the back of the hatches have a little light in the back like the CRX's do but you could always hook it up to the rear cargo light as well. That is if you do have one if not you will have to add some kind of a sensor back there. As for the motion detector I thought those were more for like convertables?? Soemthing that if you reach your hand in it would go off? Anotehr thing that I am not too sure about?? I know with my alarm I added a glass breaking sensor cause sometimes you are able to break a window without giving the shock sensor enough to go off of so I added the glass sensor.
Sorry I wasnt much help!!....Good Luck!!

 

for the rear hatch, mine has a little cargo light back there, so if you wire it to the dome light and the little cargo light, you should be set for the doors. although if you dont have the little cargo light, you could always use the "hatch open" switch. that triggers the light in the instrument cluster to go on.

 

You are not limited to what the car already is wired for. You can always run your own pin switches and wires to cover more areas. You WILL have to run your own pin switch for sensing if the hood is being tampered with.

Some alarms are internally wired different than others. From what I gather you are saying that the door open trigger on your alarm is looking for a (-) trigger. On some cars you may need a relay to convert to the proper polarity trigger required. Check again when you get ready to tap into the dome light wire. I think it is (-) so you won't need a relay in your particular case. To check for SURE, get to the connector on the back of one of the door switches and trace the wires or do a multimeter test to see if one of the wires goes to ground. If that is the case then it's negative (-) trigger.

I don't know how sophisticated your alarm is, but there are also digital tilt sensors that can tell when a car is jacked up are lifted up on either end. This might come in handy if somebody tries to tow your car or steal your wheels.

 

Yea I have a crx, and I don't see a hatch light, i just have a dome which does not turn on when i open the hatch. Only the doors. Where is the door to dome light wiring located under the dash? I.E. Where should i be looking to splice into these in the most clean way? Main relay? drivers side fuse?

 

the best way is to use a door/hood switch. I have a switch on my hood, both doors, and hatch. If it pops, off goes the alarm. This summer I will be wiring in the RF field detector. Hand into window, and the alarm gets loud.

So, buy a 5$ door switch.

 

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white/black |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| STARTER|black/white |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| SECOND IGNITION| | | |
| ACCESSORY|yellow |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue/white |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| POWER UNLOCK| | | |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/green | |switch harness, f/box |
| PARKING LIGHTS -| | | |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/blue *3 |+ |sw harness, f/b plug |
| DOOR TRIGGER|green/red |- |either running brd *2 |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|green/black |- |at light or indctr *2 |
| HOOD PIN| | | |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE| | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM| | | |
| TACHOMETER|blue | |2-pin at dist, tach *1 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green/white |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|blue/red *4 |- |steering column |
| WIPERS| | | |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |


Notes:
*1 Pin A11 behind gauges *2 Harness running down and forward from dash indicator has door and hatch triggers. *3 Low beam only. High-current (+) *4 High-current ground. Use a relay when interfacing with this circuit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white/black |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| STARTER|black/white |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| SECOND IGNITION| | | |
| ACCESSORY|yellow |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue/white |+ |ign harness, f/b plug |
| POWER UNLOCK| | | |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/green | |switch harness, f/box |
| PARKING LIGHTS -| | | |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/blue *3 |+ |sw harness, f/b plug |
| DOOR TRIGGER|green/red |- |either running brd *2 |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|green/black |- |at light or indctr *2 |
| HOOD PIN| | | |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE| | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM| | | |
| TACHOMETER|blue | |2-pin at dist, tach *1 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green/white |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|blue/red *4 |- |steering column |
| WIPERS| | | |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |


Notes:
*1 Pin A11 behind gauges *2 Harness running down and forward from dash indicator has door and hatch triggers. *3 Low beam only. High-current (+) *4 High-current ground. Use a relay when interfacing with this circuit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey that looks an awful lot like a techsoft print out, but only shitty locations. Yeah if I remember right I got both the door trigger and the trunk trigger under the drivers kick panel. They were both neg.

 

Do not wire the domelight circuit and the Hatch light circuit together. They must be diode isolated or else everytime you open the doors, the hatch light will turn on, and vice-versa. You must keep these independent and isolated. Most alarms will have separate triggers for you to wire them separately.

If your CRX did not come equipped with a HATCH light, check behind the panel to see if at least the wires exist there for a light. If there is, you can still tap into that circuit eventhough the light is not there.

Alarms look on the negative "trigger" side of that circuit. Many people think you need to have a working light to trigger the alarm. They are looking at the wrong side of the circuit.

To protect the hood, you will need to add a hood pin switch.

DO NOT Turn UP your shock or motion sensors to cover entry points that you should have protected by actually having the alarm hooked up to it. People who do this have way too sensative alarms that false and **** off the neighbors and give alarms in general a bad image.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HandCommand &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do not wire the domelight circuit and the Hatch light circuit together. They must be diode isolated or else everytime you open the doors, the hatch light will turn on, and vice-versa. You must keep these independent and isolated. Most alarms will have separate triggers for you to wire them separately.

If your CRX did not come equipped with a HATCH light, check behind the panel to see if at least the wires exist there for a light. If there is, you can still tap into that circuit eventhough the light is not there.

Alarms look on the negative "trigger" side of that circuit. Many people think you need to have a working light to trigger the alarm. They are looking at the wrong side of the circuit.

To protect the hood, you will need to add a hood pin switch.

DO NOT Turn UP your shock or motion sensors to cover entry points that you should have protected by actually having the alarm hooked up to it. People who do this have way too sensative alarms that false and **** off the neighbors and give alarms in general a bad image.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow thats some good info!!

But to be honest I wouldnt care if I opened my hatch and the dome light AND hatch light went on that only means more light!! Or vice versa its not like it matters if you open the door and the hatch light comes on the thing I would be worried about is that it goes back off!! I mostly keep the hatch light switched to off cause I was always worried that it wouldnt shut off or something and since it isnt very noticable I would rather just keep it off and turn it on once I open the hatch but sometimes thats just a pita.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vinceg99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wow thats some good info!!

But to be honest I wouldnt care if I opened my hatch and the dome light AND hatch light went on that only means more light!! .</TD></TR></TABLE>

The thing is.....why would you want two circuits that were meant to be independent operate together?

If you were dropping me off in your CRX and I opened the door to get out of the car and noticed that when I opened the door, your "hatch" open light turned on.....I would think you had a short circuit somewhere. Either that, or some bozo that installed the alarm didnt know how to diode isolate the circuits.

Believe me, in the years of being an installer, Ive seen some ghetto, wacked up crap!!!

I have turned a few jobs down because of what wiring I saw in the car that was done. Sometimes its not worth trying to fix someone elses mistake.

 

Yeah I didnt really think about the light on the dash coming on!! I was just thinking about the light in the cargo area coming on which wouldnt matter cause with the rear divider up and the rear hatch cover on you wouldnt see it but like you said the dash light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Just Checking In &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seeing as we don't have power windows, power locks, or any stuff like that....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

all of these things can easily be added, as well as a trunk release solenoid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Just Checking In &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other then the motion sensor to set the alarm off, wouldn't the only other logical thing to wire the alarm into is the dome light when a door opens?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

and the hood pin, and the trunk pin as mentioned above. also, as already mentioned, along with the shock sensor (it doesn't sense motion, it senses shock) a glass breakage sensor and / or proximity sensor can be added. It just depends on how much protection you feel that you need.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Just Checking In &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is the best way to make the alarm go off, can you explain why the (-) is needed, why a relay is also required, and how I would wire that for the dome?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can only assume here that you're confusing the door pin wire (a security feature) with the dome light wire (a convenience feature) the dome light wire turns your dome light on when you disarm the alarm so you can look into the vehicle and make sure that there are no "Bogey men" lurking in the back seat. It usually requires a relay but the door pin wire does not.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Just Checking In &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My second question is, does the ignition have to be spliced into, or is that only if you don't want the car to start when the system is armed. Or is it some technicality where if you don't you have fubared.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Again, you're confusing 2 different wires. the ignition wire tells the alarm when you turn the ignition on so that it can reset itself, lock and unlock the doors if the ignition lock feature is programed, allow the alarm to be disarmed if the remote is lost or broken, and allow the alarm to go into program mode

The starter kill wire is the wire that doesn't allow the vehicle to start when armed.


No offense dude, but based on your line of questioning, my best advise to you is to put down the cheap electrical tape that's gonna fall off in a couple of weeks anyway, take your car into a reputable shop, and get that alarm professionally installed! Trust me, in my line of work I have seen way to many people who thought they could do it themselves end up stranded on the road because their improper connections came loose, or worse, have their car go up in flames!!!

plus, 90% of an alarms effectiveness is in how it's installed. If you just splice into wires and leave things exposed, you're actually making it easier for thieves to steal your car by providing them with a road map to hot-wire your car by. and if you don't mount your siren properly, a thief could just crawl under your car (don't think that being low will prevent this, they can jack it up without setting the shock sensor off) reach up from underneath and cut the siren wires.