exciting brake job turned sour
've been working on my brakes this entire weekend, and it's gotten to be a much larger/more frustrating project than I anticipated. Basically, I'm putting in a new master cylinder, ATE Super Blue fluid, SS lines, cheap rotors and pads in the rear, Raybestos rotors up front, with Carbotech Bobcat pads.
Now, here's my first problem. I completely rounded the fittings on the rear brake lines. I got a set of flare nut wrenches and they worked beautifully on the fronts, but the rears were a bit more stubborn. I even tried torching them (not sure if that was smart, but I was pretty pissed at this point). So, does anybody know of a way to salvage what I have and put on the rear SS lines without completely replacing the hard lines?
Next problem with the rear brakes... I was putting the left rear caliper back on when I noticed that the outer bracket (with the two sliding pins) had siezed! I tried breaking it loose with various brute-force methods, but it wouldn't budge. I even tried the torch (again, mainly because I was pissed). Can I replace just this outer bracket instead of the entire caliper assembly? Any suggestions?
Last problem... how do I detach the e-brake cables from the rear calipers? it looks like it's held on with a slotted screw and a cotter pin. The head of the screw is rusted so it's impossible to get a screwdriver in there, and the cotter pin will not come out. This isn't absolutely necessary right now, but I'd sure like to know how I'm going to attack it in the future.
TIA!
Now, here's my first problem. I completely rounded the fittings on the rear brake lines. I got a set of flare nut wrenches and they worked beautifully on the fronts, but the rears were a bit more stubborn. I even tried torching them (not sure if that was smart, but I was pretty pissed at this point). So, does anybody know of a way to salvage what I have and put on the rear SS lines without completely replacing the hard lines?
Next problem with the rear brakes... I was putting the left rear caliper back on when I noticed that the outer bracket (with the two sliding pins) had siezed! I tried breaking it loose with various brute-force methods, but it wouldn't budge. I even tried the torch (again, mainly because I was pissed). Can I replace just this outer bracket instead of the entire caliper assembly? Any suggestions?
Last problem... how do I detach the e-brake cables from the rear calipers? it looks like it's held on with a slotted screw and a cotter pin. The head of the screw is rusted so it's impossible to get a screwdriver in there, and the cotter pin will not come out. This isn't absolutely necessary right now, but I'd sure like to know how I'm going to attack it in the future.
TIA!
sorry but i can only help you with your first problen get a small pipe cutter and cut the hard line just above the nut get a new nut and re flare the hard line that way you only lose about an half a inch of hard line
you might just want to replace the rear caliper. a friend of mine just got new calipers for his ek and they were like $40 ea. in my mind that isn't too bad...
Good thought, SIRX - thanks
We'll see if that gets me anywhere. So far I've only been using WD-40 but I should really pick up a can of PB Blaster.
Keith - yeah, I've been calling around for new calipers today, and I MAY end up doing that, but I've only found them for $65+ (rears are more expensive than fronts because of the e-brake mechanism). It's not a HUGE amount of money, but if there's a cheaper solution, that's what I'm after. Plus, there's the issue of my e-brake cable being stuck to the caliper. So if I can replace/unsieze just the outer bracket, I'd be extremely happy.
Any other ideas? anyone in the Boston area feel like donating some parts?
We'll see if that gets me anywhere. So far I've only been using WD-40 but I should really pick up a can of PB Blaster.Keith - yeah, I've been calling around for new calipers today, and I MAY end up doing that, but I've only found them for $65+ (rears are more expensive than fronts because of the e-brake mechanism). It's not a HUGE amount of money, but if there's a cheaper solution, that's what I'm after. Plus, there's the issue of my e-brake cable being stuck to the caliper. So if I can replace/unsieze just the outer bracket, I'd be extremely happy.
Any other ideas? anyone in the Boston area feel like donating some parts?
it looks like you need to remove that cotter pin to remove the brake cable line. i am sure you can probably remove a few other items to get the same results, but that may not be worth the work. try using a pair of wire cutter style plyiers to get the cotter pin out (they usually have a sharper "nose").
if you need parts, we could switch you over to rear drums.
if you need parts, we could switch you over to rear drums.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you need parts, we could switch you over to rear drums.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey I like my rear drums
</TD></TR></TABLE>hey I like my rear drums
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey I like my rear drums
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me too...and the ebrake cable doesn't require a cotter pin to be pulled out to remove the cable.
hey I like my rear drums
</TD></TR></TABLE>me too...and the ebrake cable doesn't require a cotter pin to be pulled out to remove the cable.
i had the same problems w/ my rear lines when i did my brakes a while back... i ended up stripping the crap out of the old one, and then just cut it off till i got the drum off to vise grip it out of the hole.
so i went to pepboys and bought a universal line about the same length as the stock one (under $3) and a brake line bender (about $5) and bent me a new line. It was cheap easy and has been working great for about 8 months now.
if i had a digi cam i would post pics
so i went to pepboys and bought a universal line about the same length as the stock one (under $3) and a brake line bender (about $5) and bent me a new line. It was cheap easy and has been working great for about 8 months now.
if i had a digi cam i would post pics
as for the caliper- keep in mind the auto parts stores only sell the caliper itself (just the part with the piston in it), not the bracket. The bracket you'll have to get at a salvage yard. Honda only sells it as an assy for $265.00
line- cut the old nut and line end off and make sure to DOUBLE FLARE the new one on. If you don't double flare it, it'll leak forever.
line- cut the old nut and line end off and make sure to DOUBLE FLARE the new one on. If you don't double flare it, it'll leak forever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try soaking the slides with a good penetrating oil. Good first post. Welcome to Honda-Tech</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what he said, always glad to welcome a noob with some experience.
Oxymoron but eh
Exactly what he said, always glad to welcome a noob with some experience.
Oxymoron but eh
penatrating oil may temporarily fix the problem but it will still come back, and probably soon because the sliders will already be pitted, and in bad shape. if u can get new calipersfor 40'"$ like someone said above, I would do that and then not have to worry for a while again
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R_ACE1
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Aug 16, 2009 12:53 PM




