Just needed to know if any of you guys did a DIY or kit battery relocation job. What cables were needed, and specific battery box to use for SCCA or drag qualifications, and any problems you encountered? Just tell your own stories of the diy or kit install, im lookin at goin for under $50 relocation, no kits. Thanx in advance.

 

Summit sell great/cheap battery box, proper protection and great product.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Summit sell great/cheap battery box, proper protection and great product.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Summit kits are under $50 and come with everything you need.

Here is a pic of Dave's (4doorH22) relocated battery, He is using a Moroso battery box. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...d.htm

 

Thanx guys, great info.

 

Just wondering about the wiring setup for the relocation, anybody got pics of how they setup the old with the new wiring for power? just lookin for the best way to connect old to new, thanks.

 

4gauge front to back. Wood holding my batter in. I'm having some wine in the speakers now but I'm working on that now. Maybe some ground loop isolators will fix it.

 

Ohh, People say use 2guage, but I had a **** load of 4guage laying around. The audio shops around here use 4guage to do battery relocations so I figured it's fine.

 

i bought a relocation kit at autozone for $13 a few years back it had i THINK 2 gauge wire,a ground strap, and a marine box and terminals.

i thought it was a hell of a deal til i went to the track and failed tech since marine boxes are not legal for any sanctioning body i know of. most require that it be a sealed box vented to the outside of the car for hatches and wagons(for lead acid batteries)...im not sure about sedans/coupes though. Before you spend the money i would check with the local track about what rules/standards they go by, and if htey have any requirements about sealed boxes etc, find out if they are the same for lead acid as well as sealed gel/dry cel batteries.
that way you dont go and spend the money and find tht you cant race with the battery relocated.

 

Very true. I don't plan on hitting the tracks anytime soon. I didn't even have that in mind when I did mine.

 

Here's mine. I can answer any questions you may have.

http://www.accordinglydone.com...=1595

 

I'm sure 4 gauge is fine, but I can imagine it has some adverse effect....something that important I'd be tempted to throw 2 or 0 gauge wire on. Anyhow, even 8 gauge would "work", I just would highly recommend 4-0 myself.
All of those setups look good!

- Nathan

 

awesome guys, i really appreciate the replies. i think i might go with the summit kit, but im leaning towards going with some 0/1 guage wire just for ignition purposes and such. If I'm understanding it correctly, you have to put a fuse, anl, at least 150A, on the new wire thats connecting your old wire to the battery? or do you guys just have the fuses for your amps?

 

No, you NEED a fuse in there! In the unlikely event of a cable grounding, it'll save a lot of chit.

 

Ok, thanks for all the replies, I'll probably go with summit and then get a fuse holder and a distribution block for easy connection from old to new wires.

btw, awesome setup Stinker504!

 

i used 2gauge from home depot , wire cost me $12 and battery box for $10
total $22. ended not using my battery box and just bolted the battery right in the trunk with the original plate

 

Got any pics of that? (trunk and engine bay). And how did you connect old to new wiring for major battery connections?

 

Hey guys, I was just thinking about this. I was wondering if you can put a hiden switch to cut off ALL power so that it will make the car harder to steal. Just a thought.

I am sure you can do this...but i am wondering if it would be bad for the car in anyway?? Another reason why I want to do it is because of my 4WS issue. When the 4WS light comes on...I can get it to go off if I pull the stereo fuse or pull the battery cable.

Thanks

 

Yeah, you can do that. Just put the switch on the GROUND wire.

 

you can do that, but the only problem is that everytime you do that, you're going to have to reset the clock, etc, etc....

for anti-theft I recommend a switch on the ECU (although not my favorite), or even better is a relay start kill on the fuel pump - the most effective and least annoying.

- Nathan

 

So most of you would connect the old wires with new 4 guage wires? How about using brand new 4 guage cables?

Also, where would I get hold of the fuse (150A) ?

Thanks a lot.

 

I did a relocation on my ride... we made my setup though very easily. welding cable was perfect and the terminals we got at a stereo shop cheap... optima/ billet tie down is the most expensive part.

btw on the pics above... all those brackets and junk **** come off from the underside via a few 10 or 12mm (forgot which)... much cleaner and A TON more room.

gell cell optima save the hassle with venting or a enclosed battery box.