I bought a JRSC, ACT clutch, walbro fuel pump, JR MAP sensor, and JR cat. I'm really excited and I know I'm going to have traction issues so I bought a set of Volk TE37s and Potenza So3s to keep the wheel spin down. The problem is that I currently have a ZEX 55 shot Dry kit installed. What should I do to make the nitrous safe. I've heard that dry kit is dangerous with the supercharger for many reasons. Anyone experienced that know what they're talking about, can u help me out and give me some suggestions? I really want to set this up so it works SAFELY. One more question...should I be able to dip in the 12s with this setup?

 

Yeah, you could hit 12s if you kept the n2o, but I wouldnt. Nitrous is harsh on an engine, boosting is hard on an engine, put the two together and your making a whole lot more hp than you should on a stock block. If you must keep it, I would tune while not spraying, then spray like a 25 shot, then tune with that ALOT. Otherwise I would bet on you having a good deal of problems.
gmoore

 

you wont hit 12s with just the JRSC. Head over to the F/I forum, they should be able to help you out. But if you are going to go with a shot of nitrous I would definitely get a Hondata.

 

12's are possible with a JRSC and no nitrous, BTW.

Secondly, I would absolutely keep the nitrous installed. The shot will cool the intake charge immensely. Sure, there will be increased "stress" but the cooling effect of nitrous will decrease temperatures so much so that a 55 shot can easily create 75-100hp on top of the charger. If the car is properly tuned and traction can be somewhat present (mounts, bars, sticky tires, lsd, etc) then youll have one hell of a monster. Instant boost, crazy top end with nitrous, gobs of torque...I would keep it. If the car is tuned properly it shouldnt be an issue.

If anything, try and find a smaller jet to experiment with. I would also strongly suggest ditching the JR electronics and going Hondata. Hondata also allows you to control your nitrous for when you do decide to squeeze. Youre well on your way to having an awesome setup...just take your time and do it right.

 

I stand corrected. The lowest I have seen a car with JRSC run was a 13.2 with major weight reduction. Listen to newgsrdriver, he knows his ****

 

Tell me exactly what I should get. Do I need to go OBDI for the Hondata? I dont know anything about ECUs except piggy backs. I have a dyno tuned FIELD SFC? Will that help? I really want to do this right. I dont wanna be another stupid ricer with a blown up engine

 

The settings on your Fields will be null because it was tuned for an entirely different setup. You should reset any settings to stock, or remove the controller.

You will need to go OBD1 for Hondata. That makes it a bit costlier, but its still worth it. Try and score a P28 and used harness and its not too bad. I dont have any experience with the AEM EMS and JRSC's, but I imagine if you have a competent AEM tuner in your area, results should be solid. The AEM will allow you to keep OBD2, but it will cost you a bit more as well compared to the base S200B Hondata & OBD1 conversion.

What I would get on top of the charger and with the SC install:

-Hondata w/440 RC's or 450 DSM's
-Hondata heatshield gasket (WELL worth the $60)
-Kamikaze 2.5" Collector header (if you can get the head flange and primaries cleaned up a bit by a machine shop, that would be beneficial)
-2.5" Carsound
-Whatever exhaust you prefer...2.5"+ for >6PSI pulley.
-3" Short Ram w/cold air ducting
-new fuel filter if you havent changed yours in 15k (as per JRs instructions)

This should give you decent gains...if the motor is strong, you should be able to pull 220/155 with this @ 6PSI. If you want more, add an MVM stepper pulley in the mix for 8-9PSI and tune from there. 250/170 should be attainable @ 9PSI.

 

Well I already have an AEM intake, Comptech header, and comptech exhaust so I'm not concerned with that. The AEM EMS is not worth the money. It costs way too much.

 

I would disagree...once you see the difference a standalone makes, its worth every penny.

Whats better to spend? $2k on a rebuild or $1k on a standalone and perfectly match that thin line between reliability and power per your specifications?

If you go Hondata, you can expect to pay $300+ for a P28/Harness, plus the unit for $450...its expensive man, thats not including tuning either. Its worth it though.

As for the AEM intake and Comptech parts, you can keep the exhaust, but ditch the intake and header. The JRSC prefers shorter length and wider diameter intakes as well as short primaried 2.5" collector'd headers. Kamis only run like $230, 3" short rams are dirt cheap, so you can sell your header and intake and make a bit of cash back on the side.

 

You should contact Hondata, they are now doing tuning for 10+ psi, I have a friend w/ a JRSC Si on slicks and gutted hit a 12.9 twice and MANY 13.0-.1 on 12psi untunned. If hondatas doing 270+ on 11psi out of a B18C5 you should be able to get at least 250hp and you WILL dip into the 12's on slicks, consider a limited slip also.