Overheating problem part II - Still over heating. Please help!
Ok, my car overheats unless I have the heat on. I don't need to have the fan on, just the heat. If the heat is on, the car runs at normal operating temperature, even under spirited driving. If the car is sitting still for a while (IE a slow taco bell drive thru) it will start to over heat. Here is everything that has been replaced/steps that have been taken.
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Tadiator cap
* No leaks
* Propper ammount of coolant
* System properly bled
* No oil in my coolant (or the other way around) - not the head gasket.
My theory: The radiator is bad (yet somehow not leaking) and the system is being cooled by the heater core, which is why it runs at a perfect temp with the heat on. Does this sound right to anyone else? I want to be pretty sure before I drop the cash on a new radiator.
And in case anyone wants to know, it is a JDM b18c1. TIA!
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Tadiator cap
* No leaks
* Propper ammount of coolant
* System properly bled
* No oil in my coolant (or the other way around) - not the head gasket.
My theory: The radiator is bad (yet somehow not leaking) and the system is being cooled by the heater core, which is why it runs at a perfect temp with the heat on. Does this sound right to anyone else? I want to be pretty sure before I drop the cash on a new radiator.
And in case anyone wants to know, it is a JDM b18c1. TIA!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does your fan ever come on when you're at a standstill?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Currently no, it does not. I have a switch for it installed, I just need to wire it up. (been lazy) I do not see how this would effect the problem as I can be driving down the highway at 75mph on a cool (55 degree) night and if I turn the heat off, the temperature gauge RAPIDLY rises. 75mph down the highway on a cool night is more cooling power than any fan will ever get me.
Currently no, it does not. I have a switch for it installed, I just need to wire it up. (been lazy) I do not see how this would effect the problem as I can be driving down the highway at 75mph on a cool (55 degree) night and if I turn the heat off, the temperature gauge RAPIDLY rises. 75mph down the highway on a cool night is more cooling power than any fan will ever get me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps some parts of your radiator are clogged, not allowing the coolant to work its way into the core?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is kind of what I am thinking. My radiator was sitting in my garage from December til March, and I am wondering if perhaps the sweet smell of coolant lured a mouse (or some other small rodent) into my radiator where he met his untimely death.
I am glad to see other people thinking on the same track as me. Like I said above, I want to be pretty damn sure it is the radiator before I drop the cash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with the dude above. how are the fins on the radiator?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This fins are alright. Not great, but not quite what I would call bad either. Before the swap, the car never came close to overheating.
That is kind of what I am thinking. My radiator was sitting in my garage from December til March, and I am wondering if perhaps the sweet smell of coolant lured a mouse (or some other small rodent) into my radiator where he met his untimely death.
I am glad to see other people thinking on the same track as me. Like I said above, I want to be pretty damn sure it is the radiator before I drop the cash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with the dude above. how are the fins on the radiator?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This fins are alright. Not great, but not quite what I would call bad either. Before the swap, the car never came close to overheating.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gabe_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...
the sweet smell of coolant lured a mouse (or some other small rodent) into my radiator where he met his untimely death... </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol...
You dont have any buddies with similar model cars nearby do you? Ive never removed my radiator but it dosent look very difficult to take out. Try swapping for a day and see if the problem still occures.
the sweet smell of coolant lured a mouse (or some other small rodent) into my radiator where he met his untimely death... </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol...
You dont have any buddies with similar model cars nearby do you? Ive never removed my radiator but it dosent look very difficult to take out. Try swapping for a day and see if the problem still occures.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nosepkr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol...
You dont have any buddies with similar model cars nearby do you? Ive never removed my radiator but it dosent look very difficult to take out. Try swapping for a day and see if the problem still occures.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh, actually yes I do, and that thought crossed my mind already. I may end up resorting to that. I was just trying to avoid that route so I wouldn't have to pester my good friend luke to borrow more parts of his car.
lol...
You dont have any buddies with similar model cars nearby do you? Ive never removed my radiator but it dosent look very difficult to take out. Try swapping for a day and see if the problem still occures.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh, actually yes I do, and that thought crossed my mind already. I may end up resorting to that. I was just trying to avoid that route so I wouldn't have to pester my good friend luke to borrow more parts of his car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gabe_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
heh, actually yes I do, and that thought crossed my mind already. I may end up resorting to that. I was just trying to avoid that route so I wouldn't have to pester my good friend luke to borrow more parts of his car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Isn't that what friends are for?
heh, actually yes I do, and that thought crossed my mind already. I may end up resorting to that. I was just trying to avoid that route so I wouldn't have to pester my good friend luke to borrow more parts of his car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Isn't that what friends are for?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gabe_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, my car overheats unless I have the heat on. I don't need to have the fan on, just the heat. If the heat is on, the car runs at normal operating temperature, even under spirited driving. If the car is sitting still for a while (IE a slow taco bell drive thru) it will start to over heat. Here is everything that has been replaced/steps that have been taken.
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Tadiator cap
* No leaks
* Propper ammount of coolant
* System properly bled
* No oil in my coolant (or the other way around) - not the head gasket.
My theory: The radiator is bad (yet somehow not leaking) and the system is being cooled by the heater core, which is why it runs at a perfect temp with the heat on. Does this sound right to anyone else? I want to be pretty sure before I drop the cash on a new radiator.
And in case anyone wants to know, it is a JDM b18c1. TIA!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm pretty sure there is no such thing as a "JDM B18c1"
The correct engine code if it was a JDM honda intergra GSR would be a b18c
I had a similar problem after getting a jdm b18c swap perforomed on my 1992 honda civic VX, I bought a fluidyne radiator and problem solved, I live in Chandler AZ where the Air temp goes well above 110 degrees 10' off the ground and in the shade(thats how the measure air temp out here)
After spending $410 on a radiator I was made fun of by guys on another message boards for not buying a 94-97 del sol Dual Core radiator for the honda dealership, coasting only $95 new. So what! I love the way my Fluidyne looks, Big Shiney and it works fantasitc. I have tested it in 105 degree weather @ 115mph for 10 minutes with the AC on and the temp gauge didn't move at all. I know that sound unsafe, and please don't flame me for doing it and talking about it, but untill you have driven an the vast AZ desert, you don't know how it is.
If your short on cash but a Del sol Daul care radiator, if you want the nice look buy a Fluidyne radiator, you won't be sorry.
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Tadiator cap
* No leaks
* Propper ammount of coolant
* System properly bled
* No oil in my coolant (or the other way around) - not the head gasket.
My theory: The radiator is bad (yet somehow not leaking) and the system is being cooled by the heater core, which is why it runs at a perfect temp with the heat on. Does this sound right to anyone else? I want to be pretty sure before I drop the cash on a new radiator.
And in case anyone wants to know, it is a JDM b18c1. TIA!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm pretty sure there is no such thing as a "JDM B18c1"
The correct engine code if it was a JDM honda intergra GSR would be a b18c
I had a similar problem after getting a jdm b18c swap perforomed on my 1992 honda civic VX, I bought a fluidyne radiator and problem solved, I live in Chandler AZ where the Air temp goes well above 110 degrees 10' off the ground and in the shade(thats how the measure air temp out here)
After spending $410 on a radiator I was made fun of by guys on another message boards for not buying a 94-97 del sol Dual Core radiator for the honda dealership, coasting only $95 new. So what! I love the way my Fluidyne looks, Big Shiney and it works fantasitc. I have tested it in 105 degree weather @ 115mph for 10 minutes with the AC on and the temp gauge didn't move at all. I know that sound unsafe, and please don't flame me for doing it and talking about it, but untill you have driven an the vast AZ desert, you don't know how it is.
If your short on cash but a Del sol Daul care radiator, if you want the nice look buy a Fluidyne radiator, you won't be sorry.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gabe_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Currently no, it does not. I have a switch for it installed, I just need to wire it up. (been lazy) I do not see how this would effect the problem as I can be driving down the highway at 75mph on a cool (55 degree) night and if I turn the heat off, the temperature gauge RAPIDLY rises. 75mph down the highway on a cool night is more cooling power than any fan will ever get me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hook up your fan. If the fan isn't moving, how is the air going to pass through your rad? The blades of the fan will slow down the air trying to pass the rad. You can also use an auto trans. rad. It's duel core too.
Currently no, it does not. I have a switch for it installed, I just need to wire it up. (been lazy) I do not see how this would effect the problem as I can be driving down the highway at 75mph on a cool (55 degree) night and if I turn the heat off, the temperature gauge RAPIDLY rises. 75mph down the highway on a cool night is more cooling power than any fan will ever get me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hook up your fan. If the fan isn't moving, how is the air going to pass through your rad? The blades of the fan will slow down the air trying to pass the rad. You can also use an auto trans. rad. It's duel core too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rob d »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hook up your fan. If the fan isn't moving, how is the air going to pass through your rad? The blades of the fan will slow down the air trying to pass the rad. You can also use an auto trans. rad. It's duel core too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with rob d. $95 for a brand new Del sol/dual core radiator? Sounds too cheap for an OEM part. You can go with Fluidyne, Koyo, C&R radiators. All seem to be very good quality. Good luck..
Hook up your fan. If the fan isn't moving, how is the air going to pass through your rad? The blades of the fan will slow down the air trying to pass the rad. You can also use an auto trans. rad. It's duel core too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with rob d. $95 for a brand new Del sol/dual core radiator? Sounds too cheap for an OEM part. You can go with Fluidyne, Koyo, C&R radiators. All seem to be very good quality. Good luck..
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