Ignition maintenence = good.
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
Decided recently that before I got back on the dyno to finish my cam tuning I was going to get the R in tip top shape. I generally change my plugs every 6-8,000mi but I have never changed the plug wires, distributor cap, or rotor button. Mind you my R as of last night rolled over 72,000mi (it's a 2001 too
) So I ordered up my stuff and got it installed today. Car runs so much smoother. My rotor button was shot to crap. Worn down compared to the other one and it had little chip or pit marks and was black. I assume my faulty distributor coils and misfiring a while back didn't help in this aspect (not sure though). I also slapped in a new set of NGK's. Just feels good doing little maintenence stuff like this. I'm not a person that usually has a good butt dyno (I have never felt the power of my mods like other people) but I wouldn't be surprised if I picked up noticeable gains on the dyno considering the condition my old stuff was in.
I got all my stuff cheap from Baron (sp?, can't remember) Acura. Not sure if I got the name right, its in Len's sig. All of the stuff (wires, cap, and rotor) were less than $80.
) So I ordered up my stuff and got it installed today. Car runs so much smoother. My rotor button was shot to crap. Worn down compared to the other one and it had little chip or pit marks and was black. I assume my faulty distributor coils and misfiring a while back didn't help in this aspect (not sure though). I also slapped in a new set of NGK's. Just feels good doing little maintenence stuff like this. I'm not a person that usually has a good butt dyno (I have never felt the power of my mods like other people) but I wouldn't be surprised if I picked up noticeable gains on the dyno considering the condition my old stuff was in.I got all my stuff cheap from Baron (sp?, can't remember) Acura. Not sure if I got the name right, its in Len's sig. All of the stuff (wires, cap, and rotor) were less than $80.
I did mine last week and noticed some smoothness as well, especially when downshifting for some reason.
by the way, its Baranco Acura, and his name is ***, I mean Len
by the way, its Baranco Acura, and his name is ***, I mean Len
I was looking over the vehicle maintenence schedule and didn't see at what point Acura recommended them to be changed...
question: At what point should you change your rotor/distributor cap?
Austin
question: At what point should you change your rotor/distributor cap?
Austin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question: At what point should you change your rotor/distributor cap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look at the studs in the inside of the cap and the edge of the rotor... if they look like crap... replace them.
My car sees slightly harder use than a car that is used for daily driving... I replaced them at ~25K and ~45K.
plugs at ~35
wires are ok for now.
Look at the studs in the inside of the cap and the edge of the rotor... if they look like crap... replace them.
My car sees slightly harder use than a car that is used for daily driving... I replaced them at ~25K and ~45K.
plugs at ~35
wires are ok for now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was looking over the vehicle maintenence schedule and didn't see at what point Acura recommended them to be changed...
question: At what point should you change your rotor/distributor cap?
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am curious about this also. I am still using the stock plugs wires, cap and rotor with 36k miles (not daily driven).
question: At what point should you change your rotor/distributor cap?
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am curious about this also. I am still using the stock plugs wires, cap and rotor with 36k miles (not daily driven).
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Look at the studs in the inside of the cap and the edge of the rotor... if they look like crap... replace them.
My car sees slightly harder use than a car that is used for daily driving... I replaced them at ~25K and ~45K.
plugs at ~35
wires are ok for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks Willard...I'm just too lazy at the moment to pull the cap to see how it looks, I was planning on pulling the plugs to see how they were looking, so I guess that I'll pull everything at once to see how they look.
Austin
Look at the studs in the inside of the cap and the edge of the rotor... if they look like crap... replace them.
My car sees slightly harder use than a car that is used for daily driving... I replaced them at ~25K and ~45K.
plugs at ~35
wires are ok for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks Willard...I'm just too lazy at the moment to pull the cap to see how it looks, I was planning on pulling the plugs to see how they were looking, so I guess that I'll pull everything at once to see how they look.
Austin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor + cap = cheap
correct plugs = not so cheap</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. Willard you think it's worth the extra $$ to try those Denso Iridium's, or just stick with the stock plugs?
correct plugs = not so cheap</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. Willard you think it's worth the extra $$ to try those Denso Iridium's, or just stick with the stock plugs?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00MRSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True. Willard you think it's worth the extra $$ to try those Denso Iridium's, or just stick with the stock plugs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
stock plugs seem to work great for me, and I should actually run a range cooler plug since Ive got some added compression. If you are still on stock compression, Id say stock plugs are fine.
True. Willard you think it's worth the extra $$ to try those Denso Iridium's, or just stick with the stock plugs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
stock plugs seem to work great for me, and I should actually run a range cooler plug since Ive got some added compression. If you are still on stock compression, Id say stock plugs are fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
stock plugs seem to work great for me, and I should actually run a range cooler plug since Ive got some added compression. If you are still on stock compression, Id say stock plugs are fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool.. Thanks
Those Denso Iridiums aint cheap..
stock plugs seem to work great for me, and I should actually run a range cooler plug since Ive got some added compression. If you are still on stock compression, Id say stock plugs are fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool.. Thanks
Those Denso Iridiums aint cheap..
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
I use the copper versions of the stock plugs. Much cheaper but I change them every 6-8k mi to ensure top performance.
FYI - Autozone has stock platinum denso's for like $7 a pop - just make sure you give them the right number (service manual or search the 87 bazilion posts about plugs...)
I just did cap, rotor, and plugs, and was amazed at the difference (~57,000 miles). I actually am now regularly hitting 30+ mpg and the idle and cold starting is MUCH better, not too mention the engine seems to pull stronger off idle and at low rpms.
These parts are cheap people - replace em!
I just did cap, rotor, and plugs, and was amazed at the difference (~57,000 miles). I actually am now regularly hitting 30+ mpg and the idle and cold starting is MUCH better, not too mention the engine seems to pull stronger off idle and at low rpms.
These parts are cheap people - replace em!
I hear you man. After I installed a new cap/rotor/wires and fuel filter on my GSR, it felt much better. Much smoother idle also which was nice.
So I pulled the rotor, cap and plugs last night...damn the rotor was fuxored up, glad that I called the dealership parts department before they closed and had one waiting in the sales department, cap wasn't all that bad, but since I was already there it was time to replace it...plugs, not bad at all, the last 30,000 miles were fine on them, didn't even look worn. Although I did clean all of threads, the contact that connects to the plug wires, and the rest of the plug. Damn thing runs great now, it did before, but much better now.
Summation - rotor was fuxored, changed it. cap was worn, changed it. plugs were fine, cleaned them. car runs much smoother now.
Austin - who is happy now
Summation - rotor was fuxored, changed it. cap was worn, changed it. plugs were fine, cleaned them. car runs much smoother now.
Austin - who is happy now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I pulled the rotor, cap and plugs last night...damn the rotor was fuxored up, glad that I called the dealership parts department before they closed and had one waiting in the sales department, cap wasn't all that bad, but since I was already there it was time to replace it...plugs, not bad at all, the last 30,000 miles were fine on them, didn't even look worn. Although I did clean all of threads, the contact that connects to the plug wires, and the rest of the plug. Damn thing runs great now, it did before, but much better now.
Summation - rotor was fuxored, changed it. cap was worn, changed it. plugs were fine, cleaned them. car runs much smoother now.
Austin - who is happy now
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good deal Austin. It's amazing what a little tune-up will do to a car..
Summation - rotor was fuxored, changed it. cap was worn, changed it. plugs were fine, cleaned them. car runs much smoother now.
Austin - who is happy now
</TD></TR></TABLE>Good deal Austin. It's amazing what a little tune-up will do to a car..
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