I heard alot about these Vtec Killers setups,
Are they for non-vtec engines only?
Or are they for vtec engines after they remove the vtec?
Does removing the vtec make the engine more or less reliable?
If it harder to have a high horsepower streetable engine without vtec?

The reason I am asking, I have a JDM b18c swap, with DC 4-1 header,high flow cat, N1 exhaust and a Cold Air intake performed on my 1992 Civic VX about a month ago, and now a think I am ready for more power. I've been looking at cams and valve springs, intake manifolds, throttle bodies, ecu programs and piggybacks, along with fuel systems. To tell you the truth, after years with the stock VX engine and no real aftermarket parts for it other then bolt-ons I am very pleased to find tons of gadgets to put on this engine. I'm not sure what to go with first, if there is an order I should build in, you know like throttle body,intake cams, valve train, head work fuel system, ecu. or should a start the othere way.

I figure with all of your guys knowledge I could save time and money using what you alll know and not waste it on junk and other worthless crap.

Thanks in advance.

 

Keep VTEC activated for a street driven car.

Unless you like no low end TQ and a loopey idle in your daily driver.

 

You need to decide on your goals for the motor. How much power you want, what kind of sacrifice of streetability are you willing to make if you want big power, how much money do you plan on spending? Then you can plan your attack. Choose pistons that will compliment the cams you plan on running. For instance, if you wanted to run Skunk2 Stage 3's, you would not want to run pistons that give you, say, a 10.0:1 compression ratio. You would want to run pistons that gave you 12.0:1 or higher compression ratio. A logical approach will save you lots of time and money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to decide on your goals for the motor. How much power you want, what kind of sacrifice of streetability are you willing to make if you want big power, how much money do you plan on spending? Then you can plan your attack. Choose pistons that will compliment the cams you plan on running. For instance, if you wanted to run Skunk2 Stage 3's, you would not want to run pistons that give you, say, a 10.0:1 compression ratio. You would want to run pistons that gave you 12.0:1 or higher compression ratio. A logical approach will save you lots of time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I don't know how much horsepower I want to have. If someone was to ask me I would as oh around 1000whp would be fine. I know thats unrealistic, but come on we all want 1000whp.

I think I want as much as I can get and still keep the gasmileage above 10mpg.

As far as the 12.0.1 compression pistons go, would I still be able to run pump gas?
If 12.0.1 is to high for pump gas how high can I go using 91 octane gas?

I was under the impression the the skunk2 stage 3 cams made all their power above 7,000rpms. I don't really drive above 7,000 rpms to aften. Just when I am speeding up from a stop, or passing.

I'm also getting the impression that unless you have had head work done, an intake manifold will only net you minamal hp gains, along with a throttle body, is this true? Or do you have to have a cam to take atvantage of a say skunk2 or vennom intake manifold?

What kind of HP increase should I expect from skunk2 stage 2 cams? Along with the correct springs and retainers.

What should I get to complament the cams?

Here is the list of whats on and in my car.
1992 Honda Civic VX
JDM b18c swap
Cold air intake
JDM DC 4-1 header
High flow cat
N1 exhaust
Fluidyne Radiator

 

Since you posted this in the "all motor" forum, I am guessing you are going N/A. 12:1 compression is very "streetable" on 91 octane. The Hondata S200 system would be a good choice for engine management, because it can adapt to any changes you make along the way. The Skunk2 IM would be a good choice fan an N/A GSR,the Venom,STR, and JG manifolds are better suited to forced induction applications. Since you don't seem to be building an all out monster motor, the Skunk2 Stage 2's, Jun 3's, or Toda "B"s would be a good choice for you. Upgraded valvesprings of course, people are a little divided on the retainer issue-some say stock are better, others swear by titanium. After having a stock retainer split, I'm partial to titanium. A better header would not hurt either-SMS,HyTech or perhaps Header Tech? Food for thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you posted this in the "all motor" forum, I am guessing you are going N/A. 12:1 compression is very "streetable" on 91 octane. The Hondata S200 system would be a good choice for engine management, because it can adapt to any changes you make along the way. The Skunk2 IM would be a good choice fan an N/A GSR,the Venom,STR, and JG manifolds are better suited to forced induction applications. Since you don't seem to be building an all out monster motor, the Skunk2 Stage 2's, Jun 3's, or Toda "B"s would be a good choice for you. Upgraded valvesprings of course, people are a little divided on the retainer issue-some say stock are better, others swear by titanium. After having a stock retainer split, I'm partial to titanium. A better header would not hurt either-SMS,HyTech or perhaps Header Tech? Food for thought.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First off, thanks for all your help.

Secondly after looking through alot of post I'm thinking 210whp is just about right for me.

So, what I'm wondering is will I be able to achieve this without head work?

I am thinking about some 12.1.1cr pistons, Shunk2 stage2 cams, matched shunk2 springs and retainers, skunk2 or edlebrock intakemainfold,hondata s200 with launch control + full throttle shifting+ AC cutoff and datalogging, and a complete fuel system upgrade, pump,filter,pressure reagulator,fuel rail, and injectors(does anyone know off the top of his or her head the formula to figure out injectors flow rate to hp ratio)..Maybe even an electric water pump.

Will my stock JDM b18c handle 210whp?

Sorry if it takes me a day to respond, I only get five posts a day till my trial is up.

Mods so far:
1992 Honda Civic VX
JDM b18c swap
DC 4-1 ceramic coated header
High flow cat
N1 exhaust
Cold air intake
FLuidyne radiator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 civic VX B18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Will my stock JDM b18c handle 210whp?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Should have read

Will my stock b18c bottom end handle 210whp?

 

There is no doubt that a properly built B18C can handle 210 whp. Making it is the trick. If you get Hondata, go with 440 cc injectors, you can always trim the fuel out, but you can't add fuel if the injectors won't flow it. Don't forget a good exhaust-a header with a 2.5" collector, and a good cat back, along with a high flow cat. If you have the $$, have your head ported as well. ITB's will give you a nice boost in power, but they are not as streetable as a standard IM/throttle body setup. 210whp is a nice goal, if you get close, you will have done something that many have not been able to; it's not as easy as some people would have you think.

 

So how much HP does your setup make b19coupe?

 

Sorry B19coupe, I can't reply to an IM I am still a trial user..

 

No problem. The motor is going onto the dyno at IB tomorrow, and the results will be posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No problem. The motor is going onto the dyno at IB tomorrow, and the results will be posted.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So how did the dyno test turn out? I need to know it 210whp is an optainable goal in an N/A engine, or should I go forced induction?

 

Results here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=533485

 

210 WHP all motor is pretty rare or at least from my experiences.

Thats equates to about 250 at the crank.

If you want that kind of power go FI.

However, I've seen hatches run high 12's with just 180 WHP, just something to think about.

EDIT: (with slicks of course)

 

There's a big difference between 210 N/A and 210 F/I. With N/A you don't have to worry about boost lag and all that junk.