torque specs for valve cover bolts?
just torque them down where they're good and tight...you don't want the gasket to squish out....but do it in a pattern so that they all get torqued evenly....and snug them all in that pattern, then go back and tighten them down in the same pattern....i've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on that....you can, but to me that's to "by the book" for me....the pattern is as important as anything...do the left one on the front, then the right one on the back, then do the left one on the back, right one on the front, etc....work your way in....
guesstimation works dude
seriously....the pattern makes a huge difference....get them tight and bam...they're small, so don't break them....it's completely "not hard" at all
seriously....the pattern makes a huge difference....get them tight and bam...they're small, so don't break them....it's completely "not hard" at all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GimpyAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">83 inch pounds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you mean foot lbs?
you mean foot lbs?
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nope, its inch pounds....83 inch pounds, but when you do it do a patter with about 50 inch pounds first, then go the full amount... its just a good practice.
sohc
sohc
OH, and make sure to put beads of high temp PTF gasket stuff in the right angles were the cam is , and MAKE SURE to wipe all oil from both of the surfaces (both the head where the gasket will touch and the gasket itself) that might have been why you had the leak in the first place
sohc

sohc
It's exactly 7 foot pounds or 83 inch pounds, which ever is on the torque wrench you have, and never use guesstimation when it comes to your car. I have a 1996 Honda Accord and have done a ton of work on her myself and I never use guesstimation, that's for losers who don't have the brains and the ***** to do the job right like we like too, good luck.
You just want it snug, it's not imperative to get it exact. If you overtighten it it's really easy to snap the stud so just snug the nuts in a crisscross formation from the inside out.
Do NOT listen to the Honda spec. I read through just to see what it would be and tried it on mine, and snapped a bolt. Use the 2 finger method. Tighten down until the bolt touches the valve cover, in the out to in cross pattern. Then go back in the same pattern and only tighten down with 2 fingers until it becomes slightly difficult to turn and your DONE!
just torque them down where they're good and tight...you don't want the gasket to squish out....but do it in a pattern so that they all get torqued evenly....and snug them all in that pattern, then go back and tighten them down in the same pattern....i've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on that....you can, but to me that's to "by the book" for me....the pattern is as important as anything...do the left one on the front, then the right one on the back, then do the left one on the back, right one on the front, etc....work your way in....
Considering you never tighten from the outside in in engine heads, intake manifolds you name it. Because you will create a bow in the center and crack it or at the least not have a good seal. I would suggest sticking by the same practices for the valve cover. You loosen from the outside in and tighten from the inside out. Never tighten anything from the outside in. Even not car related same rules apply, trying to screw a sheet of plywood down flat to something and putting in screws from the outside edges and working your way in will push a bow/warp into the center of the board and crack it. You can even crack a head or intake manifold if you loosen from the inside out. Tightening isn't the only risk.
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