I wanted to install a fuel pump kill switch on my car this weekend (probably going to use the method with a relay and a auxilary bypass switch) and since a lot of you have already done it I was hoping if someone would help me not reinvent the wheel (and probably help me not make any mistakes you might have). I wanted to know what kind of switch/wire (especially the gauge) from radio shack should I get and also where is the bolts to get to the fuel pump wires. My email address is nipatel@seas.upenn.edu and I drive a 2001 ITR (NBP of course )

Thanks

 

I am interested in doing this as well.

 

not really hard at all....any switch will work.

the wires are located just under the rear seat and the wires are right by the cross member brace near the front of the seat.

All you really have to do is cut the wire and put the switch in between the two. I did it a while ago and I'm pretty sure it was a yellow wire (on my 98 R)
you may want to double check w/ someone who has a helms still....

 

The big thing is I need to know the amps/volts of all the switches and relays (I found at Radio Shack 12VDC / 20 > amps switches and relays, would this be alright, or do I need more)... Also do you know if the rear seat removal shown on this post is the same for the ITR https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not really hard at all....any switch will work.

the wires are located just under the rear seat and the wires are right by the cross member brace near the front of the seat.

All you really have to do is cut the wire and put the switch in between the two. I did it a while ago and I'm pretty sure it was a yellow wire (on my 98 R)
you may want to double check w/ someone who has a helms still....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I put my kill switch on the negative wire (the black one). No problems so far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gelabee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also do you know if the rear seat removal shown on this post is the same for the ITR https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

The rear seat instructions are correct.

 

I don't remember the specifics on the switch, but I just bought a few generic switches at Radio Shack for this and other purposes and they work fine.

 

Only problem I run into is that the wire and switch, during a long driving period, got hot!!!

One time I was driving to work and I was about 50% throttle and the car just cut off on me, in the middle of the street. Turned out the switch got so hot, I guess it just melted and over handled the insides of it. I had to splice and ghetto twist the 2 wires while I was stuck in the median.

 

Yea, the switch I used I got from a friend. Works fine.

Use a solid grade wire - I'd say around 16 gauge, I did and mine is still working

 

Yeah, I use to run in to this when soldering cheap switches; fall apart on me.

Just get a heavy duty switch at Radio Shack and use high temp. solder; should be alright.

 

Since I don't want to get myself stuck in a situation where I have to do some ghetto splicing would all the switches above 20Amps be enough?

Thanks, I didn't know the switches had those kind of downsides...

 

Yes that switch would be more then enough. The switch that they used was probly a micro switch. Just wire everything good and you should be alright.

 

http://www.geocities.com/ginof....html

I think this page is pretty helpful as well.

Good luck.