I an building a B18c1 with CP pistons eagle rods and with 11:1 comprestion with about a 75-100 shot what cam should i go with i am going to be upgradeing the valves springs and retainers if i have to thats no problem.

 

anyone?

 

N2O setups like cams similar to N/A setups, but not as much duration. more lift is good, but not lots more duration over the stock cams. similar to a turbo cam but with more duration is a "simple" way to describe N2O cams.

ITR/CTR cams are pretty good with N2O injection, as quite a few ITR owners will agree with. you could also try something like the Skunk2 stage 1 cams, which are very close to the CTR cams. i've heard of some trying the Skunk2 stage 2 cams and other cams close to those, but i believe the duration is too much. some of the N2O mixture will go right through the combustion chamber and into the exhaust system being wasted, cause the overlap is too much. duration/overlap are great for N/A setups. but when it comes to N2O injection there is a limit to what works the best.

BTW i used stock GSR cams on my B18C1 with 11:1 C/R and DP system last year.
i just used adjustable cam gears to alter the overlap and timing, and the stock cams worked great. of course CTR cams would have been considerably better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N2O setups like cams similar to N/A setups, but not as much duration. more lift is good, but not lots more duration over the stock cams. similar to a turbo cam but with more duration is a "simple" way to describe N2O cams.

ITR/CTR cams are pretty good with N2O injection, as quite a few ITR owners will agree with. you could also try something like the Skunk2 stage 1 cams, which are very close to the CTR cams. i've heard of some trying the Skunk2 stage 2 cams and other cams close to those, but i believe the duration is too much. some of the N2O mixture will go right through the combustion chamber and into the exhaust system being wasted, cause the overlap is too much. duration/overlap are great for N/A setups. but when it comes to N2O injection there is a limit to what works the best.

BTW i used stock GSR cams on my B18C1 with 11:1 C/R and DP system last year.
i just used adjustable cam gears to alter the overlap and timing, and the stock cams worked great. of course CTR cams would have been considerably better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so what are you recomending CTR cams and they are good for the money also correct compared to any of the other cams or can i go more agressive then the CTR's?

 

i'm sure you can find more aggressive cams than CTR that will work well with N2O injection, off hand i really don't know what else to recommend. i know ZEX makes some N2O cams, but i don't know what motors they are for and how well they work. i don't hear much of anything about ZEX cams, so that leads me to believe they may not be worthwhile.

i had a set of almost new 00 ITR cams but never got a chance to use them with my N2O setup last year. so that's why i used stock GSR cams. either way i would have stuck with the CTR or Skunk Stage 1 cams for good N/A and N2O performance without too much overlap or duration like the Stage 2 cams have.
i believe Crower makes a set of cams comparable to the Skunk2 stage 1's.
and Webcams are great from what i hear, but i've never used them.
you can always do "custom" cams, tell the maker what the setup is exactly and what you want out of it. a professional cam maker/grinder will know what to do.
though that will cost a bit more $$.

 

i was thinking with sticking with skunk or EF-1 cams but i dont want to go over kill with them with the overlap but say if i go with a bigger cam can i take care of it with the use or cam gears to take the overlap out?

 

yes to some degree you can work with longer duration cams if you've got adjustable cam gears. so you may be able to work with Skunk2 stage 2 or similar cams.

but Skunk2 stage 1 cams or CTR would be the best bet. CTR cams are pretty cheap compared to aftermarket cams, so that's a plus too.

 

thats what i might go with say with the CTR pistons 11:1 comprestion H/E/I 310cc injectors and hondata s200 and maybe some porting and some hondata S200 what kind of whp should i get before the spray?

 

I'd say 170whp.

 

sound i go with some port work with this?

 

a stock B18C1 normally makes about 145 WHP, but some make 140 or 150.

if you add all the goodies that you mentioned (pretty close to what i used last year) then you should make around 180 WHP, give or take a few depending on the tuning with the Hondata and the cam gear settings.

as for the headwork, it's a good idea to very slightly enlarge the ports when using F/I such as boost or N2O injection. also smoothing the exhaust ports a bit is good too. most importantly deshrouding the valves, cleaning up the combustion chambers and going with a 3 angle valve job should be done for max performance.
this stuff can actually be done yourself with the right tools, minus the valve seat cutting since a pro needs to do that. i did the port and combustion chamber work myself last year and for this year i just cleaned up everything and enlarged the exhaust ports a little more since it'll be a turbo motor with more flow than last years N/A with N2O motor.

the end result for headwork is too have more flow without hurting the low end, and remove any "hot spots" in the combustion chamber where hot air or N2O could pre-ignite. ceramic coating also helps keep the pistons cooler and the heat inside the chamber, therefore reducing the chances of detonation while injecting larger amounts of N2O, especially on a hot day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a stock B18C1 normally makes about 145 WHP, but some make 140 or 150.

if you add all the goodies that you mentioned (pretty close to what i used last year) then you should make around 180 WHP, give or take a few depending on the tuning with the Hondata and the cam gear settings.

as for the headwork, it's a good idea to very slightly enlarge the ports when using F/I such as boost or N2O injection. also smoothing the exhaust ports a bit is good too. most importantly deshrouding the valves, cleaning up the combustion chambers and going with a 3 angle valve job should be done for max performance.
this stuff can actually be done yourself with the right tools, minus the valve seat cutting since a pro needs to do that. i did the port and combustion chamber work myself last year and for this year i just cleaned up everything and enlarged the exhaust ports a little more since it'll be a turbo motor with more flow than last years N/A with N2O motor.

the end result for headwork is too have more flow without hurting the low end, and remove any "hot spots" in the combustion chamber where hot air or N2O could pre-ignite. ceramic coating also helps keep the pistons cooler and the heat inside the chamber, therefore reducing the chances of detonation while injecting larger amounts of N2O, especially on a hot day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you take any pics of your head before you bolted it on with thwe work you dont to the chambers and ports?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bottlefedb18c1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you take any pics of your head before you bolted it on with thwe work you dont to the chambers and ports?</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually i took some pics last week when i cleaned the head up and lightly reported the exhaust ports. i haven't loaded the pics onto my PC yet though cause i've been busy. but maybe i'll get around to loading them and see how clear they are. it was tuff to get really close to see the details of the ports etc.
i'll see when i load them up.

 

So skunk2 stage 2's are to big for N20 in your opinion? I am just curious. I did alot of headwork, skunk2 stage2's and 310's with a 150 shot. Have yet to get it tuned because it destroyed my drivetrain at the track, but I did run a 116mph. In my experience the stage 2 seem to do really good with the gas, I retarded the exaust 4 degrees and thats about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hbgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So skunk2 stage 2's are to big for N20 in your opinion? I am just curious. I did alot of headwork, skunk2 stage2's and 310's with a 150 shot. Have yet to get it tuned because it destroyed my drivetrain at the track, but I did run a 116mph. In my experience the stage 2 seem to do really good with the gas, I retarded the exaust 4 degrees and thats about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of compresion you running? and rods?

 

i personally have not used aftermarket cams with N2O, and i no longer use N2O injection. so most of what i said is based on what "the majority of people" use and/or prefer when it comes to using cams and N2O. ITR/CTR cams seem to be very popular, but there's nothing wrong with aftermarket cams such as Skunk2, Webcams or Crower. as long as the lift and duration work with N2O or whatever setup you have.

the Skunk2 stage 2 cams may be fine with N2O injection if they're dialed in properly giving you N/A performance and good bottle performance. quite often Exhaust cam advance is used along with N2O, instead of retard. but each setup is a bit different so what works well with one may not work well with most.

 

skunk stage 2 or crower 402's

 

bottlefed- stay with ctr/itr...the car will run great on motor and on the bottle. im lookin for 200ish on motor and im using ctr....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bottlefed- stay with ctr/itr...the car will run great on motor and on the bottle. im lookin for 200ish on motor and im using ctr....</TD></TR></TABLE>

what size shot you going to be running and on what comprestion?