I'll post up all the #'s later, but here's the most interesting stuff:

2501 lbs without me in it. full interior + amp, empty with no spare or jack, tools, etc... weight savings include a VIS cf hood, 15x7 te37's, spoon calipers. Extra weight includes JL amp (came with the car), HID's, lower header shield/ brace.

cornerweighted perfect without me in it on apex n1 (99spec) coilovers and the springs they come with (11k/ 5k). With the new conical pillowball upper mounts, the ride height is ~23" at all 4 corners (ground to top of fender well center) maximum [safely], and maybe 1 finger between new azenis and top of fender..... camber = ~-2.5deg all around! I need a camber kit now!

With me in it, we couldn't get the corner weight perfect in the rear..... but oh well I'll be getting some stiffer springs in her soon... along with a bigger swaybar too!

Thanks http://www.lockracewrks.com



Modified by Black R at 8:00 PM 6/6/2003

 

Good post, I am very curious about how much mine weighs after various relatively minor weight removals. I have a friend who's a car "expert" and insists that an ITR couldn't weight 2500 lbs

 

How much gas?

Sounds very light. What kind of place did you get down?

 

how much did it cost you?

 

Where did you get this done Ken? Id like to get my cah weighed too if its not horribly inconvient/expensive.

 

What's the point of setting your cornerweights without you in the car? Don't you intend driving it?
I'd be interested to see your#'s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by disordeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did it cost you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KIWI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the point of setting your cornerweights without you in the car? Don't you intend driving it?
I'd be interested to see your#'s</TD></TR></TABLE>


I DID do the settings with me in it. Reread my original post at the bottom.

I posted up how the coilovers made the cornerweighting perfect on a stock empty itr... that is what I thought was MOST INTERESTING. I'll post up the #'s later when I have time.

$50 per hour for cornerweighting.

Lockwood Raceworks in Gainesville, GA.

 

Lose the a/c, HIDs and the stereo stuff and your R is easily a low 2400lb car.

Most folks don't believe that, but it can be done without gutting the interior.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I DID do the settings with me in it. Reread my original post at the bottom.

I posted up how the coilovers made the cornerweighting perfect on a stock empty itr... that is what I thought was MOST INTERESTING. I'll post up the #'s later when I have time.

$50 per hour for cornerweighting.

Lockwood Raceworks in Gainesville, GA. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So what exactly did you pay $50/hr for?

I'm just curious why the spring collars couldnt be adjusted to make the cornerweights correct w/ you in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much gas?

Sounds very light. What kind of place did you get down? </TD></TR></TABLE>

He mentioned empty in his initial post..

Makes me want to get rid of the extra weight I have in my car (sub/amp/box/spare/etc...)

 

LigHT !!!
why did you go to weight your car so soon, if you already planned on new spring??

 

Can i recommend you some mod??
GET A race seat!! stock one is heavy!!(i don't remember clearly, more like high 40-5x). a regular race seat with rail will weight 2x! that's 30 lb of weight reduction !!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So what exactly did you pay $50/hr for?

I'm just curious why the spring collars couldnt be adjusted to make the cornerweights correct w/ you in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


They can't get perfect because of my ride height and the fact that the rear springs are soooo soft. It's definitely better than it was. Very close, but not perfect. I was trying to get ready for a lapping day at little talladega this weekend, so I wanted to get my configuration set up as best I could. Thanks for the concern. I'll let you know how it fares. Next up will be higher rate springs in the rear, and then possibly a bigger rear swaybar... if that's too crazy, then I'll add a bigger front bar too...

 

how do soft springs prevent the collars from being moved to such a position that weight is transferred?? what was the problem with the ride height ... it is my understanding that coilovers are not designed for changing ride height, but are designed to allow corner balancing ... i know u can make the car go up/down, but that is not the intended purpose of the collars afaik.

 

Where did you get this done Ken?

not highjack Ken's thread, but for all you GA/NC/VA/SC/FL/ETC... peeps, we have scales also.

 

just to let everyone know, i went to the local dump in town and weighed my car there a while back, they let me use it for free. so if you might have dump in town with a scale, try there its worth a shot

 

Getting an overall weight of your car is not the point of corner weighting. The theory is that if the left front plus the right rear weight equals the right front plus left rear (this is known as cross weight) then the car is as balanced as it can get without removing or moving weight in the car. Having coilovers allows you to change the amount of weight that one corner has on it. Buy using 4 scales you can adjust the suspension at each corner until you get the cross weights equal.

If you are having trouble visualizing this, think about a four legged table in which one leg is a little too long. The long leg and the one on the opposite corner will carry most of the weight of the table.

So if we want to increase the weight carried by the front right and rear left corners then we would raise either the front right or rear left or a little for both. Or we could lower the front left or rear right or a little for both. Which one to change depends on where the ride height for that corner is relative to the others.

Ideally we would want the ride height at the two front corners to be exactly the same and the ride height at the rear two corners to be exactly the same AND for the cross weights to be equal. Balancing all that can be quite a challenge. So I suspect that when Black R said that they could not get it exactly right for the ride height he wanted, what he means is that he compromised with close cross weights but exactly even ride heights.

Regards,
Alan

 

Kenny, what kind of amp do you have, and how much do you figure it weighs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ross &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kenny, what kind of amp do you have, and how much do you figure it weighs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whoa, what a random question from Ross! It's a JL Audio amp..... I don't know the exact model number, but I'll check it for you if you want..... it rocks as far as pushing the two 10's that the car came with as well..... I don't know how much the amp weighs, it's screwed to the right rear seat back..... Funny, how I was never a stereo guy but the bass is kinda cool...

00 got it right before, when he posted. to him. me = too lazy to type.