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B16 Swap Problems

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Old May 29, 2003 | 04:45 PM
  #1  
Tchleung's Avatar
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Default B16 Swap Problems

I recently swapped a B16A (first gen) into my 90 Integra. everything went smooth and she runs and I'm driving it around right now. but here are the few problems we have.

1: motor doesn't engage vte. throws code 21 which is the vtec spool thing.. we're gonna check wires in a few days and the actual solenoid,w e are most likely thinknig the solenoid is fubared. does it accept a 12V signal? cause if so, I'll jsut test it uot to the battery.

2: here's the main one. The motor makes an anoyyingly LOUD ticking noise. both at idle and driving. I can ehar it over my exhaust when Im' ddriving around or even at idle. it is definantly comnig from the injector/intake cam area. I know that the injectors usually click but mines are LOUD LOUD clicks. it gets a bit louder when I'm driving around and it ticks faster depening on revs on the motor. are my injectors fubared or soemthign wrong in the head? we did an valve adjustment and amde sure it was to spec. there are Crower cams in there if that makes it any different. when we had the head apart and we turned the cam by hand, it would make the roughyl same clicknig noise all teh way down the cam as the lobes or whatever hit that metal peiec(no clue as to what it is as I dunno alot about motor internals) it was noticable so we're thinknig MAYBE the mroe agressive cams just make loud ticks? I am not sure. someone please help. The car in general runs fine. the idle is semi rough with teh cams and ES polyerathane rear mtoro mount.

help me out if you can

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Old May 29, 2003 | 05:04 PM
  #2  
poison's Avatar
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Tchleung)

Glad to see the swap went well!

As for the questions:

1 -- Most likely the wiring is not correct, a break or open circuit in the wire. I would put wire from the battery to the vtec solenoid and see if it clicks. If it clicks, then it's just fine. Grab a multimeter and check for breaks in the wire leading to the ECU.

2 -- Sounds like with the installed cam, the intake cam is advanced too much or not at TDC. ALSO, make sure the cam gear bolt is torqued to spec! My friend had this problem, and turned out the bolt was not tightened all the way.

What kind of cams/model cams do you have? I'm assuming a mild cam since I believe you're running factory valve train. The Valves may be slightly tapping the pistons though which isn't good. Do not take it to high RPM's like this! It also could be the injectors, but I doubt it.

Keep us posted and i wish you best of luck
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Old May 29, 2003 | 10:16 PM
  #3  
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (poison)

Okay.. thinsgs have changed. as I wa driving, tat ticking noise taht was really loud sorta went on and off. sometiems it was there. sometimes it wasn't. at idle you can still hear it click Minor but sounds like injector tick. so after 30 mins of on and off ticknig while driving and both stopped, it eventually disappeared! I droive around stop and go shut car off and on proly a buncha tiems all day to do things and it never did it again. every ONCE in a while I ehar it click again but only for a seocnd or two nothing major like before. what's that mean? at idle it isn't bad at all anymore haa I can actualyl drive without ppl thinknig my motors gonna blow up.
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Old May 29, 2003 | 10:50 PM
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Tchleung)

you might need a valve adjustment.
Check the wiring at A4 and the Vtec Solenoid Valve their should be 14-30 Ohms.


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Old May 29, 2003 | 11:31 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (bossman032)

yeahw e alreayd did a valve adjustment before the mtoor went in tho and we didn't touch the internals of the head at all afterwads
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Old May 30, 2003 | 08:43 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Tchleung)

Update 1:

ticking while driving came back after starting car up in the cold morning even after warm up it was there
then later on in the day after driving she went away for no reason... I'm sure when i start it up tomororw it'll be back.

Update 2:

when turning the motor over by hand we can see the 3rd rockerfollow the third cam down the as the lobe leaves its like the rocker stays down for a sec then snaps up with a "click" you can watch this happen and see it. the motor was ran for 30000k before the swap and we never touched the timing. could it be the vetc spool valve allowing some oil press thu causing this?
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Old May 30, 2003 | 10:28 PM
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Tchleung)

i had a b16 with crower 403's and also had a loud ticking problem. it turned out to be the lost motion assemblies. that's what it sounds like to me for your motor. you can check by pulling out the cams and lifting the rocker arms up. press down on the lma's and see if they move freely or do they stick and snap back up.
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Old May 30, 2003 | 10:58 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (crx1856)

Aren't 62403's for LS heads? anyways I'll be sure to try that. thx
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Old Jun 1, 2003 | 06:11 PM
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Tchleung)

well we fixed the vtec dealy. the chattering thing actually goes away one it's warmed up fine. something about LMA maybe. anwayys she runs strong. getting CEL with 23 knock sensor code tho. gonna cehck he plug on the block tomorrow
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Old Jun 1, 2003 | 10:49 PM
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Tchleung)

The LMA's in my 1g B16 are noisey as hell. They will be coming out for the CTR cams so I can live w/ it for now.
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Old Jun 7, 2003 | 10:25 PM
  #11  
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Default Re: B16 Swap Problems (Cory man)

shold I replce them with OEM from like a 95delsol vtec or 99+civic si?
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