H22A P13, KS CEL gone after adding 10K resistoto D3. ECU(D3)------>10K resistor----->ground. Works for me.

 

Knock Sensor is a good thing...

If you said EGR then I would rejoice. Not that I get that code anyways..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason kiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you said EGR then I would rejoice. Not that I get that code anyways..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha.. that's pretty much what my co-worker said. We're still working on a spare P13 to see what we can do to disable the EGR.

Here's a cool little tid-bit that we found out on OBD-1 ECUs, and I'm sure it applies to all years of Honda ECUs -- we had a P28 and a P72 that had fried (burned marks) the fuel injection transistors on the board (3 long transistors, in the upper left-hand corner, QM1-QM3) and it made the car miss and sputter really bad. We got an old DX computer (or any OBD-1 computer that you don't care about) and desoldered the good transistors and put them into the P28 and P72. Now the P28 and P72 ECUs run perfect, just like before they fried the fuel injection transistors. Point here is that if something is burned out on your ECU, then you can find another ECU from the same year (or OBD version) and use the parts off of that to basically fix your ECU.

 

Good to know about what you just said about the ecu's. Unfortunatly not everyone has extra ecu's laying around but at least I can keep that in mind.

 

lol Very tru junglerunna. But Newman, I can send you my spare (Currently not working because of two bad solder jobs) p13 ECU and you can see if its repairable.. I am also waiting for my p28 to come in so I can test it out and hopefully get it setup with Hondata as soon as money becomes available... And also because my Accord ECU I was using to run the car in the meanwhile just recently burned out a capacitor and refuses to give the fuel pump voltage..

Any ideas on why this would happen to any ECU. Had just started the car and it wasnt fully warmed yet, drove around the block and a friend of mine hoped it and revved it to like 6 grand 3 times then the car just shut off after like 5 minutes..

So now I am lost.. But still waiting for this p28 to come in so I can at least have vtec back.

Any suggestions??

 

Thats definently some very usefull info. Guess that means I will be keeping my dx ECU just in case my p13 blows anything. Thanks newman, oh and btw, you've got PM!

 

Well here is another strange tidbit. I had put in the Pt3 which I assume was the Civic CX ecu and it ran the car just fine, although I didnt go anywhere but back into my garage. But it started up and idled just fine...

 

I only got EGR CEL once. That's because I had it wired up wrong. FYI.. (right pin out) Pin1--&gt;sensor voltage (most left pin on the sensor itself) Pin2--&gt;ground Pin3--&gt;ECU(D12) I don't have the selonoid hoock up. I know KS is a good thing, but can be very anoying (especially to remove and install) This is what I wanted try to put the debate to rest if KS is looking for resistence when the ECU is checking for it at high RPM. I think it is. That's not to say that it is not designed to look for voltages either. But, as of now I'm not getting the KS CEL anymore. Still didn't help me pass state inspection today though. Too much NOX and too much HC at Low RPM anyone run into this? I'm going to start by basic tune up, plugs, rotor, caps, wire. Then retard the timing (rotate towards the firewall right?). Any help would be appreciated?

 

I had too many HC and waaaaay to many NOx at the low RPM test also. Check this thread out.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=510531


I failed with all new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and oil change.


I don't know if I need a new cat or my cat just cooled down too much. I need help passing smog too. Good luck with your emissions test.

 

Yep I plugged up my EGR valve with a metal plate. I guessed I need to look into making that smog stuff working correctly. I already took out and cleanned my TB and intake with gum out. Runs a heck smoother afterward. Also, I adjusted the idle screw. Would the idle screw cause the HC and NOX numbers to go up? Thanks

 

Nah not really. You just are burning rich. It happens with JDM and lude motors without a properly functioning EGR. The best thing would be to make sure you CAT is working properly and to retard timing a big. Also if you had a FPR to low down static fuel pressure..

 

Passed State Inspeciton today. NOX reduced dramatically after I un-blocked my EGR. Retarded timing 1 degree. She passed with flying colors. Not too rich problem. EGR causes too much NOX. Thanks all for your suggesstions.