http://www.hardblok.com/info.html

Anyone ever tryed this on an Hondablock?

 

hard block is primararily used for drag cars that start up run down the track and then shut off. if it were used in a street car you would have overheating issues. it does make the engine block stiffer but it also fills the coolant passages whitch in our case would be bad!!

 

Last time I talked to Joe Demaree about his car at Dinwiddie, he said he was using something similar to that. He poured the sleeves full, the layed a head gasket over the top, drilled down for cooling holes and came in from the back side where the waterpump is to get some cooling passages and it had worked up to about 28psi at the time for him, so maybe its the way to go. Of all these products that I've seen this is the first one that says it is proven effective in aluminum blocks as well as cast.

 

hmmm maybe we can somehow use this stuff to strengthen just parts of the jacket so cooling isn't hindered. Maybe use some kind of a mold so theres like 4 columns around each cylinder and everything else is open...anyone get what im saying? looks interesting

[edit]What about filling the whole thing then drilling out a lot of big coolant passages?[/edit]

 

insert aluminum piping before pouring?

 

and get some oil on it before, so you can pull it out easier

 

i ahve heard of cement already too , its only for drag cars.

 

that is a new method some people is using,mostly puerto rican thats what they use,my friend got his done 2 weeks ago it went 12.3 at 14 pnds of boost no heating issues as long as you drill the holes using the stock head gasket as a pattern

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">insert aluminum piping before pouring?</TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting idea....
how much that stuff cost ?

 

piping? prolly under $10. the cement? no clue.

i think the piping would be an easier route than drilling and you could pull em out before the stuff sets.then you'd have nice straight, smooth water passages.
EDIT:Austrian beat me to it
damn...someone try this:D

I wonder if it compares to the Dart blocks?

 

but wont the coolant just sit in the holes then? wouldn't you need some kind of passage out of the bottom? maybe i dont fully understand how the coolant flows...anyone care to add?

 

... interesting info... i doubt anyone is gonna experiment on their block and try this stuff... (even though we all know we would if we had the extra $$$ )... anyways, i'd still like to see results if anyone does try this out...

 

just fill it up half way, thats usally how the domestics do it.

 

half way is no good. sleeves always crack at the top where the load is the greatest.

ask abaz from hmt he knows a guy who ran DEVCON alum filler in his SOHC block

we also had a big topic on this stuff a wile back on hmt.

i dont think doing this to a pretty DOHC would be a great idea hehe

 

Around here the latin community is into the rotary motors and Toyota blocks-little loud *** cars! Anyhow some of them pour JB weld directly into the water jackets and fill it to the top, deck the block-BAM pour Iron block almost. I have seen them run with and without coolant passages on the track before. Its some old trick that was brought from South America and also from the the V8 heads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">half way is no good. sleeves always crack at the top where the load is the greatest. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Endyn says that most cracking starts generally in the middle of the stroke. and works its way up to the top. not from the top down. (from their block guard article)

do you have proof of this statement?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pissedoffsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Endyn says that most cracking starts generally in the middle of the stroke. and works its way up to the top. not from the top down. (from their block guard article)

do you have proof of this statement?</TD></TR></TABLE>

pouring it in halfway still doesnt help. It protects the bottom half, but what about the middle to the top (top half)?

 

I'm gonna gree, every crack I've seen starts mid ways or at the bottom and runs up. The most force is at the bottom where the sleeves are anchored due to piston side loading and forces at the top trying to sway the sleeve. The base takes the most beating. See if any of you can contact Joe Demaree, he said he does the blocks in his race car that way.

 

also some cracking might be from vibrations, and i would agree the bottom of the cylinfer takes a lot of abuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueSi2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but wont the coolant just sit in the holes then? wouldn't you need some kind of passage out of the bottom? maybe i dont fully understand how the coolant flows...anyone care to add?</TD></TR></TABLE>
what I mean is to insert lengths of pipe ALL the way thru (top to bottom) the lenght of the cylinders

you could leave the pipes in or remove them for coolant flow.