In light of my other post of my VTEC not engaging, my oil was low enough not even registering on the dipstick. This really frightens me in 2000km's i burn about 2 litres of oil, roughly half of engine oil capacity..my car is a 2000 with 80000km's on it with a engine warranty till 100000km's.. is this normal, i dont drive my car lightly but not hard enough to burn that much oil, is my engine fucked???

could it be my oil filter be loose? oil doesnt leak on my driveway, etc..

 

take it to the dealer.

 

replace all seals and maybe your headgasket?

 

mmm dealer it is, are they going to give me a hard time?

 

Time to run a leakdown test....

 

before you do all that work, what oil are you using?

 

It's not your oil filter because it would be all under the car.

I don't see any harm in taking it to the dealer if you have time.

 

If the car is under warranty - get your mom or dad to take it in - less likely to get trouble from the service dept. imho.

 

I experienced the same problem. I'm using Motul on my 1997 ITR with 50,000kms. There's only a very small spot under my car. Any ideas?

 

No im quite mechanically inclined, i know my **** quite well so they cant feed me any of the BS that they cant cover it...

I'm running 5w30 synthetic..Every 3500 miles, regular maintinence etc..

 

My car burns about a quart every 2000 miles, i think my headgasket is leaking, but i did a compression test and the numbers came out alright

 

Try switching back to regular 5w-30...synthetic burns like crazy. Especially if you are using Mobile 1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No im quite mechanically inclined, i know my **** quite well so they cant feed me any of the BS that they cant cover it...

I'm running 5w30 synthetic..Every 3500 miles, regular maintinence etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which brand Synthetic?

H'mmm wonder what rodney is getting at? H'mmm...

 

You got a warrenty...use that ****....take it to the dealer....how modded are you?

Do a comp. test, if that's all good then at least the motor is fine...

 

im using esso synthetic its ok midgrade synthetic, i cant afford the $$$Mobil1$$$...

took it intoday, how she goes fine, i got a aem cai on there and thats pretty much it, oh yea the vafc but its not hooked up yet..

 

Just because a compression test shows good, doesn't mean the motor is fine. It could be the oil rings, not the compression rings that is the problem. The only way you can check those is by pulling the motor apart.

My Type R is experiencing the same issue. Just not as much oil being used as yours.

 

more than likely its beat oil rings, your compression numbers could be sky high but if your oil rings are beat then your going to get consumption

 

Def. switch to a heavier oil and see if the consumption stops, I burned about 1L every change, until I switch to 10W-30 Syn, a ok, but if it doesn't stop bring it to a dealer to oil change and then bring it back when it gets low, and again and again until they know you got a prob and it will be covered under warrranty.

 

5W-30 synth will go through the motor fast. I put in 5W-30 RedLine last time becuase that is all my shop had around and the motor just ate it up. Is it so cold there you need to run 5W-30? If so, use dino oil instead or use 10W-30 synth if you can. Even with 10W-30 synth, these motors will use oil when driven hard. Check your oil often.

 

redx are you on EO by any chance?

After speaking with some of the Edmonton owners of import cars SOME..not most or all for that matter... don't seem to know what driving easy is before the car is fully warmed up.

How did you break in your car?

check your PCV valve and see if it is working properly. Replace it if you haven't already done so....

Since you said you were mechanically inclined... get yourself a comp. test done and most importantly a leakdown test.

I attributed a lot of my oil consumption to stem from excessive crankcase pressure and oil was blowing thru the PCV into the manifold at such a rate that at idle I could blip the gas and blow smoke rings out of my N1 muffer!

Oil catchcan has curbed some of this, and I'm attempting other countermeasures this season...!

 

I7ve tried several different brands. Here's my synopsis:

Mobil 1 Tri-synth (5w-40): Good
Nissan GT-R (20w-50): too thick, hard to start
BP (20w-60): way too thick, what was I thinking
Castrol Synthetic Blend (10w40): does its job
Honda 100% Syth. GOLD (5w-40): VERY GOOD
HKS 100% Sythn: GOOD

In Japan, both the NSX and ITR come with Honda Gold 100% synth oil from the factory. I really like this oil a lot. I got less engine vibration, no burning, lasts longer, and the engine wasn't sluggish. The reason why I didn't give it 5 stars is because its ridiculously expensive at $60 for 4 quarts.

HKS Oil was about as good as the Honda Gold but even more expensive at $80 for 4 quarts.

Castrol Synthetic blend was an experiment. It didn't burn at all, but it made the car vibrate a lot at idle.

Nissan GTR oil was put in because I thought it be a good idea to use thicker oil after going turbo. This oil is way to thick, made the car vibrate really badly at idle, and made the car really sluggish.

BP was put in because I blew a ring land a while back...thought that thicker oil will reduce the burning...turned out to make things worse. At 20w-60, it was the thickest oil on the shelf and made the car run really bad. At times, I couldn't start the car in the mornings.

Mobil 1 tri-synth is ok...good performance, no vibrations, no sluggishness, but it did make the exhaust smell of burning oil (although it wasn't visable) Its the cheapest 100% synthetic oil of its grade (5w-40)...its okay oil, but I feel HKS and Honda Gold out performed it.

Final Verdict...although expensive, go with the factory Honda oil if you can get your hands on it. Its expensive but worth it...if you can't get this, I'd go HKS or Mobil 1.

 

I'm sure we all appreciate your response here, but unless you are living in Japan or Europe or other parts of the world in general....

It's just like our tire choices here....they are just shitty and unless you plan on importing the oil yourself, or somebody does, there's no chance in hell we'd ever find this stuff locally....

 

You can get these oils in the States...yes its not as wasy as going to autozone, but if you have a tune shop that specializes in Japanese cars, they should carry it or be able to order it...Castrol and Mobil 1 is sold anywhere, and I would be very suprised if your Honda delaer didn't carry Honda Gold since they recommend it so highly here...

 

Ragingangel, i bought my car used so i couldnt break it in, it was already de-virginized...

I think i found the problem, i had a very teeny crack in my pan, only leaked when i drove then i hit a chunk o cocrete(lazy jackass city workers)and fucked everything up, hopefully my pickup is ok..

Oh yea im not on EO but im on v8less and edmontonplanet very rarely..ht is shizza...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ragingangel, i bought my car used so i couldnt break it in, it was already de-virginized...

I think i found the problem, i had a very teeny crack in my pan, only leaked when i drove then i hit a chunk o cocrete(lazy jackass city workers)and fucked everything up, hopefully my pickup is ok..

Oh yea im not on EO but im on v8less and edmontonplanet very rarely..ht is shizza... </TD></TR></TABLE>

it only leaked while you were driving?