I want an affortable and decent (won't leak and break-down on me) oil cooler. Saw the Greddy one and it was almost $500. Then I saw the B&M for $120. Which one is better and is there a difference? Or should I custom one? But if I custom one, where can I get the Valve springs (I think that's what they're called) that piece that looks like a mini radiator but black.

If it's a lot cheaper to go custom, then what are the pieces that I need to have it done? One return and one feed line, a valve spring, washers bolts etc.? Someone with experience please guide me. Appreciate it. Thanks

 

Build your own using 1/2" NPT fittings and stainless lines. OMG you will see such a difference.

 

uhhhh, don't 94-95 GS-R's have oil coolers stock???

-Andrew

 

i want a bigger one for the car. Still doing a research on it.

 

i'd say go with the B&M oil cooler, that's if you run your car hard.
but either way, if u wanna shell out cash... good choice.

 

Get the greddy oil cooler kit if you got money. Its about $450. Its a very high quality kit though.

 

I figure since I have nothing else to modify inside the bay I might as well go safe features for my car. Besides the fully built b18/b20 sleeve and balanced motor and everything I can think of, I'm still missin that oil cooler. Funny how I was supposed to get that the day i got turbo but anyway

and summer is coming I just don't want my oil to run hot and turn black on me every 200 miles (even with mobile1 15-50s). Pain in the *** to change oil and spend $20 every 2 weeks. anyway if yall got mo info on that please let me know ppl thanks much.

 

Man i need an oil cooler to...i burn oil like crazy...120 isn't bad for the B&M.....

 

I don't think the B&M oil coolers come with a thermostat, which are highly recommended when running oil coolers to keep the pressure up during cold starts.

 

my bad, I didn't know you had a fully built turbo set up, now I see why you want one so bad...

-Andrew

 

B&M will do for u.
B&M , seen alot used in SCCA roadracing..... only a $100<--

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think the B&M oil coolers come with a thermostat, which are highly recommended when running oil coolers to keep the pressure up during cold starts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They dont.

Also if you guys are just looking for a easier oil change like someone posted, get a remote oil filter mount/kit. Consists of a spin on adapter and the actual remote oil filter mount. Then you'll need to run some stainless lines and fittings. You'll be set!

 

go for a jackson racing its rite in the middle 250, i have had no problems with mine. i heard the b&m leak, but i havnt seen it myslef.

 

Unless you track your car, it is unneccessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kr1s79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go for a jackson racing its rite in the middle 250, i have had no problems with mine. i heard the b&m leak, but i havnt seen it myslef. </TD></TR></TABLE>

leaking is usually users/installer error

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you track your car, it is unneccessary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i was going to say that! j/p

B2finity is rite, you dont need it unless you drag/race your car everyday.

 

This happens no matter what:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Typiko512 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just don't want my oil to run hot and turn black on me every 200 miles (even with mobile1 15-50s).</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a function of being "broken in" (brought to operating temperature). Turning black is not a sign of deteriorating lubricating quality of the oil.
It just turns black because (in your case) the oil finally reaches it's 50w.

You shouldn't use oil that has such a wide thermal viscosity variation (35w in the case of 15w-50). A difference of 20w or 25w is optimal because the oil is not "stretched" as thin over the scale of it's usable thermal range. In other words, the lubricating qualities of the oil in the upper temperature range are more consistant with a 10w30 or 5w30. (Not to mention the oil lasts longer).