Help with SS Brake Lines
Yes, I have done a search and found some good information, but I am still left with some questions that I either couldn't find an answer for (because I am dumb or lazy) or the answers caused more confusion than I had when I started.
I understand that installing SS brake lines is a pretty straight forward operation, but I still have some questions:
1. If I am going to flush my brake fluid should I get as much fluid out of the master cylinder before I start the install or should I just plug/squeeze the lines during the install? What is the best method for squeezing the lines so I don't get fluid all over the floor?
2. What is the size of the flare nut wrench I will need?
3. What size of tubing should I pick up at Home Depot to bleed the brakes?
4. 'When bleeding the brakes, never push the brake pedal all the way to the floor'. Is this Fact or Fiction?
5. Any other advice I will need?
Thanks.
I understand that installing SS brake lines is a pretty straight forward operation, but I still have some questions:
1. If I am going to flush my brake fluid should I get as much fluid out of the master cylinder before I start the install or should I just plug/squeeze the lines during the install? What is the best method for squeezing the lines so I don't get fluid all over the floor?
2. What is the size of the flare nut wrench I will need?
3. What size of tubing should I pick up at Home Depot to bleed the brakes?
4. 'When bleeding the brakes, never push the brake pedal all the way to the floor'. Is this Fact or Fiction?
5. Any other advice I will need?
Thanks.
Use a turkey baster and suck some old fluid out of the mc, but not below the level where air will start to enter the lines (trust me on this); when you're changing the lines, be fast like a ninja so fluid doesn't get on the floor - don't worry, it doesn't come out real fast.
Do not push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. I put a piece of wood under the pedal to stop full travel. I don't think people agree whether it is fact or fiction that you may damage the mc, but why take the risk when it's so easy to prevent? Use slow, firm strokes.
When the lines are on and fully bled, check for leaks. The slightest drop of fluid anywhere is enough to affect the feel of your brakes. Also, I would not use the turkey baster on the mc until AFTER you change the lines because the fluid level will drop very quickly with the first few pumps.
Last bit of advice - re-use the oem banjo bolts. The bolts that Goodridge supplies in their kit snap easily under medium torque, and the same may happen with other kits.
Do not push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. I put a piece of wood under the pedal to stop full travel. I don't think people agree whether it is fact or fiction that you may damage the mc, but why take the risk when it's so easy to prevent? Use slow, firm strokes.
When the lines are on and fully bled, check for leaks. The slightest drop of fluid anywhere is enough to affect the feel of your brakes. Also, I would not use the turkey baster on the mc until AFTER you change the lines because the fluid level will drop very quickly with the first few pumps.
Last bit of advice - re-use the oem banjo bolts. The bolts that Goodridge supplies in their kit snap easily under medium torque, and the same may happen with other kits.
also where the end of the brake line connects to the fender of the car, be VERY careful with this part. There's a clip holding the line down, make sure you have some kind of vice grip cause that nut is HARD as hell to move. and make sure you buy one of those "C" wrenches? donno if that's what it's called but it's a small 10MM i believe wrence that will have only enough room to fit over the brake line and you slide it down over the nut. 2 people would be good to do this but make sure you have a vice grip or strong plyers.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what diameter tubing should i pick up at home depot to bleed the brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seriously, nobody can answer my question?
Seriously, nobody can answer my question?
1/8 or 3/16
The front bleeder is smaller, prob 1/8" tubing. The rear is larger prob 3/16" tubing.
I have a one-way valve bleeder, which allows me to bleed solo. Without it, grab your girl or your mate and have them depress/release the brake while you open/close the bleeder (depressed brake=open bleeder; release brake=closed bleeder).
As previously mentioned, be careful with the nut that attaches the flexible line to the hard line. It can be gummed up, kind of fozen. You don't want to twist the hardline or crimp it. Some serious heat can help move the nut.
I have a one-way valve bleeder, which allows me to bleed solo. Without it, grab your girl or your mate and have them depress/release the brake while you open/close the bleeder (depressed brake=open bleeder; release brake=closed bleeder).
As previously mentioned, be careful with the nut that attaches the flexible line to the hard line. It can be gummed up, kind of fozen. You don't want to twist the hardline or crimp it. Some serious heat can help move the nut.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what diameter tubing should i pick up at home depot to bleed the brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I always end up taking a bit of tubing with me to Home Depot to compare. I can't remember the size. Just buy a few feet of a few different sizes. I don't think it will hurt your wallet too much.
I always end up taking a bit of tubing with me to Home Depot to compare. I can't remember the size. Just buy a few feet of a few different sizes. I don't think it will hurt your wallet too much.
I think the rolls of tubing (25 ft? ) are $3-$4. I bought two rolls (1/8 and 3/16 i think) before... just use what i need, store the rest in the toolbox.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The Hooligan
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
6
May 5, 2005 03:32 PM



