I have heard of some people tapping into the radiator hose with the appropriate fitting, but what other options are there? Autometer.coms instructions just say to "install the sender".

 

don't use the autometer sender just splice into the wire coming off of the original sender. i'ts on the distributor side of the head, and i thingk the wire coming off of it is green. If you have a manual check to verify this.

 

And you are positive that this gives an accurate reading? Can anyone else confirm this?

 

I tappd it into my themostat housing, but obviosly the thermostat isnt used. I dont use my thermostat tho because i have an electric water pump. But you can still use it the way i did

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTYdashONE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tappd it into my themostat housing, but obviosly the thermostat isnt used. I dont use my thermostat tho because i have an electric water pump. But you can still use it the way i did</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need to read water temperature from the head not from anywhere else ... head is the most important


greg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to read water temperature from the head not from anywhere else ... head is the most important</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hehe, Thanks greg, i just thought of that, Heres a picture of my DFI water temp sensor plumbed into the water neck. I took it just for you guys, hehe

 

I tapped mine off of the stock sender and it reported the wrong temps. It is best to use the sender provided with your gauge.

 

Use the sender that comes with the gauge and not the stock sender. The stock sender is calibrated differently from the Autometer.

 

In my racecar I dont have a stock gauge cluster so I removed the factory one and put my Stewart Warner one into there and it works perfectly..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my racecar I dont have a stock gauge cluster so I removed the factory one and put my Stewart Warner one into there and it works perfectly.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what we did, except for Autometer gauges

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Exactly what we did, except for Autometer gauges </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do the autometer gauges have a different sized temp sensor?

 

The temp sensor is a 1/8th NPT thread and screws directly into the stock location.

 

shouldnt the stock location use 1/8 BSPT? 1/8 NPT will work, but..

 

Never had a problem with leaking so I'm sure it's fine.

 

I have the H22 motor and I'm tryin to find out what size the temp sender has to be to fit in. I have Stewart Warner gauges and the sender only goes in a few turns. Can someone help me out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdefranc938 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the H22 motor and I'm tryin to find out what size the temp sender has to be to fit in. I have Stewart Warner gauges and the sender only goes in a few turns. Can someone help me out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats because the Stewart Warner sensor is a tapered pipe thread, It gets bigger as it goes up.. Put some pipe tape on the sensor and snug it up in there, Dont strip out the threads on the head but make sure its tight..

 

It won't work its way out after time?