Thinking of rebuilding my engine myself. Input.
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
Well my 2001 ITR is currently at 70,000mi and well most likely reach the century mark within a year (yes I drive it alot). It currently burns a good bit of oil and I have been thinking of rebuilding it to stop oil consumption. Of course while I'm in there I plan to bump the compression and do a few other things. Here is my plan.
Pistons- JDM ITR, CTR, or the new probe forged pistons that work with the stock rods.
Stock rods.
ARP rod bolts.
All new bearings and seals.
New head gasket.
I have never rebuilt an engine myself but I have done my fair share of mechanical work and have seen a few engines torn down. I also work in a shop with access to all the nessecary tools and there are two mechanics in the shop that rebuild engines in their spare time. I actually figure starting out on a B18C5 might be a little easier than most. Doing my own labor could keep the price in the $700-$800 range depending on the price of bearings and seals. Your opinions would be appreciated.
I would also like if I should go ahead and get the crank balanced? I don't plan on revving the engine anywhere past 9,000rpms, but it would be nice to do. Again any input would be nice.
Pistons- JDM ITR, CTR, or the new probe forged pistons that work with the stock rods.
Stock rods.
ARP rod bolts.
All new bearings and seals.
New head gasket.
I have never rebuilt an engine myself but I have done my fair share of mechanical work and have seen a few engines torn down. I also work in a shop with access to all the nessecary tools and there are two mechanics in the shop that rebuild engines in their spare time. I actually figure starting out on a B18C5 might be a little easier than most. Doing my own labor could keep the price in the $700-$800 range depending on the price of bearings and seals. Your opinions would be appreciated.
I would also like if I should go ahead and get the crank balanced? I don't plan on revving the engine anywhere past 9,000rpms, but it would be nice to do. Again any input would be nice.
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How do you go about balancing everything..?
Also wondering if I should build my first motor myself...
Also wondering if I should build my first motor myself...
if you have another car you can drive, I say go ahead and give it a shot. As long as you have a manual by your side, disassembly and reassembly shouldnt be too difficult. if you wanna bump the compression, might was well get some pistons(since thats what you were planning already) and also throw in a thin head gasket to add a little more compression. Im not too sure about the balancing process, but I assume thats not something you do in your home garage(unless maybe your name is sgt). But if you take the motor apart, you can take it to the machine shop and have them hone the cylinders, install the pistons, balance everything out, and then you can put it all back together. the manual should be good enough to walk you through it, and HT is here to answer some of the tough questions as well. if you do the disassembly and reassembly, you will save a ton of money. if I get into another project, I plan to do most of the work myself as well and it will be MY first motor build.
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">balance EVERYTHING.
dont needarp rod bolts
manual tells the rest.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are most machine shops compitent enough to balance my assembly or should I be very particular?
Any reason not to get the ARP rod bolts? They are only around $100 if I'm not mistaken.
I also figure since the head will be off this would be a good time to upgrade the valve train with some portflow inners or something similar.
dont needarp rod bolts
manual tells the rest.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are most machine shops compitent enough to balance my assembly or should I be very particular?
Any reason not to get the ARP rod bolts? They are only around $100 if I'm not mistaken.
I also figure since the head will be off this would be a good time to upgrade the valve train with some portflow inners or something similar.
check all clearances as well...
don't go into the build with a "I think I can do it" attitude.
It's easy...just follow your Helms/Chilton's, whatever manual....simple as pie for a stock rebuild
don't go into the build with a "I think I can do it" attitude.
It's easy...just follow your Helms/Chilton's, whatever manual....simple as pie for a stock rebuild
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check all clearances as well...
don't go into the build with a "I think I can do it" attitude.
It's easy...just follow your Helms/Chilton's, whatever manual....simple as pie for a stock rebuild
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I definitely will have the manual to guide me, a few friends, and a mechanic or two that I can turn to for questions.
don't go into the build with a "I think I can do it" attitude.
It's easy...just follow your Helms/Chilton's, whatever manual....simple as pie for a stock rebuild
</TD></TR></TABLE>I definitely will have the manual to guide me, a few friends, and a mechanic or two that I can turn to for questions.
My first complete tear down and rebuild was my B18C5. Fairly easy with the right tools and a good machine shop.
I just used some common sense and followed the Helms to a T.
I just used some common sense and followed the Helms to a T.
rod bolts are about $40-50.
HEAD bolts are the ones that cost $100-130
u do not need rod bolts. head bolts are always good as they're
reusable.
always balance the whole roating assembly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are most machine shops compitent enough to balance my assembly or should I be very particular?
Any reason not to get the ARP rod bolts? They are only around $100 if I'm not mistaken.
I also figure since the head will be off this would be a good time to upgrade the valve train with some portflow inners or something similar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HEAD bolts are the ones that cost $100-130
u do not need rod bolts. head bolts are always good as they're
reusable.
always balance the whole roating assembly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are most machine shops compitent enough to balance my assembly or should I be very particular?
Any reason not to get the ARP rod bolts? They are only around $100 if I'm not mistaken.
I also figure since the head will be off this would be a good time to upgrade the valve train with some portflow inners or something similar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, and pay good attention when you disassemble the engine.
ALWAYS put all corrolating(sp) bolts in ONE zip lock bag...
ie- put all flywheel bolts in one labaled baggy, etc.
It pays to be organized unless you have built numerous engines and you know what bolt goes where.
Be prepared- don't be in a rush
I built my last 2 engines in my living room where it was nice and warm...lol.
You don't want to build an engine in a cold environment, where the metal will shrink and clearances may be off
ALWAYS put all corrolating(sp) bolts in ONE zip lock bag...
ie- put all flywheel bolts in one labaled baggy, etc.
It pays to be organized unless you have built numerous engines and you know what bolt goes where.
Be prepared- don't be in a rush
I built my last 2 engines in my living room where it was nice and warm...lol.
You don't want to build an engine in a cold environment, where the metal will shrink and clearances may be off
i have all my bolts in a zip lock bag. or just put them back into the screw hole. oh and keep taking pictures as you go along, just incase you need to put somthing back on but forgot. and makes the reassembly easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any idea for the price of bearings and seals? I'm guessing OEM is recommended.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, ALL HONDA OEM, don't use that cheap taiwan knock off stuff.. Please get everything from Honda.
Yes, ALL HONDA OEM, don't use that cheap taiwan knock off stuff.. Please get everything from Honda.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
..."you gotta learn sometime". plus it will save you lots of money</TD></TR></TABLE>
my new motto in life. Thank you. hahah.. good perspective.
..."you gotta learn sometime". plus it will save you lots of money</TD></TR></TABLE>
my new motto in life. Thank you. hahah.. good perspective.
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