B16A >>>I finally got my car started! I am sure everything is wired correctly. The car fires right up everytime. This is the weird thing, It is idleing at like 3,000 rpms, then when i try to give it gas, it keeps going higher and higher, I switched the two outer wires on the TPS sensor, I dont know if I was supposed to? I have a code where I have one longer blink followed by four short blinks,, then a code 5. what the hell are these and does any one know how to solve my idle problem,,,what could be wrong????????????

 

check your vacuum hoses, make sure all the plugs off the intake manifold have something on them and are in the correct locations.

 

Sounds like you have code 14, which one comes fiest 5 or 14 ? I was always told the lower code would come first. So maybe your throwing a code 10 or a code and a code 4. Anyways, here is alist off all the codes. Here is a list of codes.


http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php

Or here is another list


1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2 *not all cars*
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater

 

THANKS< BLACK 90 CRX, I AM GOING TO MAKE LOVE TO YOU!

 

that's frikkin nasty dude...anyways try messing with the throttle cable cuz when i did my MPFI swap, i had to take out the throttle cable and install it on the new IM. when it started, the idle was wayyyy high...so i let go some throttle on the manifold and now it idles at around 750....try that...your TPS should be right because if you didn't switch the wires, and you crank up the engine, the idle will be sky high around 6k or 7k...

 

The throttle stays completely closed, yet it keeps reving higher and higher, then I just have to turn motor off with key so it dont redline out. If I start and dont touch the gas, it will idle at like 3,000=3,600 If i tap the gas and let go, it will keep going higher on its own.....

 

I had the same problem but my mechanic found if you remove the throttle body theres another small adjustment screw and mine had completely come out. After he replaced it I haven't had problems since. Good luck

 

really , is there a way I could fix it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicciviccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car fires right up everytime. This is the weird thing, It is idleing at like 3,000 rpms, then when i try to give it gas, it keeps going higher and higher</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have the same problem with my 89 crx dx, but not all of the time. it only does it every once in a while and the rest of the time it's fine.. !?

 

Well if you are reading the codes right, then you have codes 14 and 5. And code 14 is the electronic air control valve, which that lets extra air into the intake manifold, to help control the idle under different loads. So defiantly fix that problem first. Heres some tips on how to see whats wrong with it. Check the O-rings, for mounting condition.
Clean the inside of the Valve after removing, using any kind of solvent that will remove carbon build up. By spraying it inside the two holes ect... Place the flat end of a screw driver on the EACV while the engine is running. Place the handle against your ear and listen. Should hear something in there jumping back and fourth at a rapid rate.
EACV Sensor Wires:
1 Blue/Black
1 Yellow/Black

And the other code you said you had is code 5, which is the MAP Sensor, and when you throw this code it usually means there is something wrong with the vacuum hoses.When the MAP voltage is too high (indicating vacuum is lower then normal) the problem is rarely a faulty sensor, but in fact a problem with the engine itself

incorrect cam timing
incorrect ignition timing
restricted exhaust
excessively worn engine or leaking valves

So it sounds like your problem is coming from those 2 codes, so take care of them and then see if the problem continues. And since you did the wiring yourself, I would check to see if the wiring is correct cause that might be what is wrong.

 

its your vac. lines. look at a stock MPFI engine, and copy the lines on that. I bet you $500(not really, but you get my point) that this will solve your problems

 

What ECU are you running? if it's OBD1 then the long flash could be expected, but if it's NON-OBD/OBD0 (PR3 or PW0) then it should only consist of short flashes which are counted. (At least this is what I was lead to believe) Correct me if I'm wrong. I got a PR3 and just counted the number of flashes, I never heard of a long pulse and then short pulses in that ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperJay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What ECU are you running? if it's OBD1 then the long flash could be expected, but if it's NON-OBD/OBD0 (PR3 or PW0) then it should only consist of short flashes which are counted. (At least this is what I was lead to believe) Correct me if I'm wrong. I got a PR3 and just counted the number of flashes, I never heard of a long pulse and then short pulses in that ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Obd0 does have long flashes to.

 

sounds like your having a problem with your IACV, something you may want to try is taking your IACV off and cleaning it with brake clean. On my rex I had a problem with a erratic idle that used to rev higher and higher then drop. I cleaned it and it never did it again so try it and see what happens

 

Now i am getting no codes, fixed that. Still idleing real high, at like 4,500. what could be the problem? would bad vacume lines cause it to rev that high? do you think it is the eacv??DOnt know what to do..........

 

Have you tryed adjusting the idel screw yet ?

 

tried to adjust a little, its hard to turn, I am going to go back out side and **** around with it...