I need your guys suggestion on LS-Vtec life? What are the best internals to use? I want life on my motor too, I don't want it to explode like most of the LsV's.....cuz that motor doens't seem to be so reliable, i want my motor to live for as long as it can, so help me out with what you guys think........

 

LS vtecs just dont have life.....they just dont work unless u want to invest A LOT of money and time. to actually get a ls vtec to have life and to work properly u would be using more money then it would cost for an ITR motor in my opinion

 

I was in ur place also, i have a 94 LS with 70K and the best thing for us to do is either drop a GSR engine (or any engine u want) or you can boost it, LS engines r just begging to get boosted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hoppaboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS vtecs just dont have life.....they just dont work unless u want to invest A LOT of money and time. to actually get a ls vtec to have life and to work properly u would be using more money then it would cost for an ITR motor in my opinion</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah...riiight....sure.

 

LS vtecs just dont have life.....they just dont work unless u want to invest A LOT of money and time. to actually get a ls vtec to have life and to work properly u would be using more money then it would cost for an ITR motor in my opinion


Are you for real? How many LS/VTEC motors have you built? I've seen a few built for way less than a Type R motor and run great with no problems.

 

well to my knowledge, if you wanted an LS/VTEC in a DC2 all you would have to do is swap a LS or CRV bottom end, cause DC2's are GSR's and DC4's are LS/RS/GS.
If you make sure stuff is done right, take your time dont rush, things will work out just fine, do alot of reading too

 

Well I had a stock LS Block with shot pinned rods, type r pistons and it lasted 60,000 miles now finally have a rod knock do to over reving with stock rod bolts and not changing the oil on the regular......If your going to do one just get a girdle and rod bolts and a good mechanic to build it and you should be straight.......oh yeah i did my conversion when i had 120,000 miles on my car

 

A friend told me that if you use the LS Block and use B16 head n it's internals, that the car can last pretty long and it will hold up already.........
N/e comments?

 

If your serious and have the cash go to a reputable shop and get it done. They should steer you in the right direction. I have a p72 gsr head mated to a ls bottom end, fully built internals-benson's sleeve, crower rods, arias pistons. BTW boosted with DFI. you don't need to go that route if you lack the $. But it could be done reasonably with stock oem parts frankenstein style. I have heard of b20 vtecs fragging but they had wild cams. If you have stock ctr or itr cams it should run safely for a long time. Give KG race engines a call in HB 841-8990. Talk to Kurt about what you want and he'll give you the in's and out's.

 

lol..i just noticed your from westminster..im around there everyday. reputal shop? try this then, and it just happends to be in our area..
http://66.27.132.142:85/ls_vtec_conversions.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10K2HVN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://66.27.132.142:85/ls_vtec_conversions.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>

linkie no workie...

i have read a shitload and what i have concluded with ls/vtec's is just upgrade the rod bolts and get 'da gurdle and you should be stright. just when your building it, keep heat in mind. oh yea, and dont tee from the block.



^thos wouldent hurt also ;]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2LsVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A friend told me that if you use the LS Block and use B16 head n it's internals, that the car can last pretty long and it will hold up already.........
N/e comments? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is correct.
Get a stock LS block, and switch out the pistons for b16, and use the b16 head.
You will be reliable, and fast.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, very much appreciated for all the ideas........Last question tho, If I threw down ITR Internals the car should also be pretty reliable and quick too right?

 

why go to all the trouble? if oyu want reliable get a stock.. uncracked motor...

 

the link works when i click on it...even when im on a different computer...
oh well..go to http://www.prospeed-performance.com then click on Sevices then LSVTEC.
Also, you dont need the crank girdle, althought it is a nice thing to have when your rev'in to 9k+...

 

I do not see how a ls/vtec or b20/vtec could be reliable when reving past 8k without spending a LOT of cash. These people with ls/vtec's working properly are a few things: lucky , know what they're doing, have the cash to have it done properly, and know not to use crazy cams. If you put cams that rev past 9k i would love to see how your stock ls block holds up. If honda meant for the ls block to rev past 8k that would have built it so it could. Unless you do most of the work yourself- you would end up spending more money than a gsr motor swap- and probably end up shooting a rod in end.

 

yea dude, i just got LS VTEC on mine and its a bitch. You're gonna spend at least 2g's and thats if you use stock internals. I got a complete B16a head with the b16 internals, distrib, manifold etc etc etc. I got it for 700. and then theres other **** u need. what im doin is JE 9.5:1 pistons, crower rods, skunk 2 valves, retainers, valve springs, skunk2 intake man., and prolly skunk2 stage 2 cams, if not JUN. but JUN is too damn expensive hehe (like $900). and then theres **** like decking the head, block guard, sleeving etc etc etc. It's a bitch. just to let you know

 

if its a bitch then you dont know what yer doin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TIroneous &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do not see how a ls/vtec or b20/vtec could be reliable when reving past 8k without spending a LOT of cash. These people with ls/vtec's working properly are a few things: lucky , know what they're doing, have the cash to have it done properly, and know not to use crazy cams. If you put cams that rev past 9k i would love to see how your stock ls block holds up. If honda meant for the ls block to rev past 8k that would have built it so it could. Unless you do most of the work yourself- you would end up spending more money than a gsr motor swap- and probably end up shooting a rod in end. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats why you simply dont rev it past 9k unless you dont have a built bottom end. if your gonna have cams and a valvetrain that rev's 9k+ then your gonna need the compression ratio that the cams require..if your bumping the cr then your building the motor. and with any block if you take shortcuts then await to become a statistic.

 

the only reason that it seems to me like you think the lsvtec is a bitch is because you thought it was cheap. i am going to go lsvtec soon and i plan on spending about 2500 in parts and 500 in labor. then im going to boost that bitch in about a year.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaAznKigga &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea dude, i just got LS VTEC on mine and its a bitch. You're gonna spend at least 2g's and thats if you use stock internals. I got a complete B16a head with the b16 internals, distrib, manifold etc etc etc. I got it for 700. and then theres other **** u need. what im doin is JE 9.5:1 pistons, crower rods, skunk 2 valves, retainers, valve springs, skunk2 intake man., and prolly skunk2 stage 2 cams, if not JUN. but JUN is too damn expensive hehe (like $900). and then theres **** like decking the head, block guard, sleeving etc etc etc. It's a bitch. just to let you know</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt count on the stage 2's unless you deck the head like a ************...

you will probably lose power if you dont have the compression to back up that big of a cam

 

stg 2's need lots of compression...altho w/ some b16 pistons the'd be alright..need like 11+ cr