it's for my friend his girls lude is screwed lol,

here are his compression numbers from right to left, he said that the car was in a flood she got in it drove it off, and two miles later it died, he check c/r this is what he got,

50 25 50 125

any help thanks

i say bad rings but i don't know

 

in a flood? And she just drove it off?

oooook. Well, bent valves, bent rods, cracked head.

What other possibilities do you want? Sucking in water and then trying to compress it is like trying to do a keg stand on a Big Gulp slurpy from 7-11 without a brain freeze.

You are GOING to mess something up. Some people get lucky and they just suck in a little water and it dies and the motor can walk away unharmed.

If I'm reading what you're telling me correctly:
Her car was submerged. The motor tried to compress a full chamber of water... she needs either a massive rebuild, or a new motor.

If I misread something, then please correct me. But if I read right, she hydro locked it, which causes a world of hurt to any number of internal parts. It needs to come apart to asses the damages.

 

Does anyone know what the compression should be in each cylinder for the H23?

 

JAY MOO SON: motor turn
JAY MOO SON: s
JAY MOO SON: didnt lock up
NilihisM MethoD: ok
NilihisM MethoD: holdd up
JAY MOO SON: no water in cyls when we pulled the pulgs and cranked it to check
JAY MOO SON: water was about 4-6 inches deep
he read the post and this is what he had to say

 

does he have a cai? if he does and he started it while it was in the water, it very well good have sucked it right in even though it was shallow water. if the water was already in the chamber and it was driven, then it probably already has been blown out the exhaust. chances are it probably at least messed up your valves

 

stock air box

 

compression numbers should be within 10% of eachother.

125 is on the low end, I'd like to see 160-170+ at LEAST on an H23 all across the board.

The motor is messed up no matter how you look at it. If he's really curious as to where the air is going, have him run a leak down test. He has compression loss in all four cylinders.

 

and rings don't just "go bad" like that. If the numbers were getting THAT low, he'd have oil on the plugs DRIPPING off when he pulled them out.

 

i agree with the comment on the plugs being fouled. i'd look at it being a valve problem. take the head off and see what you find

 

im the guy no tec is talkin about. were in the process of tearin the head off and so on. the thing is that the water was about 4-6 inches deep....then dryed up b4 she drove it. plus i had nothin wet on the plugs, water or oil and we cranked the motor with them out and no water or anyhtin comin out. could it be a headgasket? were pokin the idea around

 

oops forgot to add we compression tested it about a week ago when this happened and had from righ to left 75 175 110 125. took it to western auto to be looked at possible timing chain but we went and picked the car up when they said to the girl youve been drivin around with no water pump and thats why you lost compression. thank god shes not a adumbass and listened to them. shes been workin on engines for like 2 years in the coast guard with me in my department, man she knos her diesels. but now my boss bought the car for 500$ and were tryin to get this thing to work.

 

that car was doomed before she took off. It probably ran like hell anyway with numbers like that. Trust me, I know what it's like. LOL

It IS possible that you have a blown headgasket. But almost sure as anything some sort of sign. Like oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil. When you pull the oil cap, is therre a white haze over the inside of it?

That 175 was a good number, the rest are crap.

Now you're down to the highest is at 125. If it didn't hydrolock, then I'm saying rings, or valves off the bat. I'm more inclined to lean towards valves, because rings don't change compression numbers like that over a weeks time. Not without help like juice or some form of FI. Valves can break or chip off.

Either way you look at it, if it didn't have a water pump, it'd overheat. If it didn't have an oil pump, it lock up within minutes. If it hydrolocked, you'd see numbers like that, and you'd have broken ring landins maybe, bent rods, broken or bent valves.

No matter what, that motor has to come apart. There's no magical way to fix those compression numbers. No timing belt is going to help you now. Even if it did jump time and bend stuff, there are still things bent.

I say go ahead and get a new motor, or pull this one apart and see what's going on.

If you feel so inclined, run a leakdown test and do the traditional listening thing.

If the air comes out the exhaust, it's the exhaust valves,
if air comes out the intake, it's intake valves
if air comes out the oil filler (or crank case breather tube) then it's rings.
if you see bubbles out the radiator with the cap off, then it's a head gasket or cracked head or block.

I say do a leakdown test and see what happens. Tell us what percentage loss it's at.

But be prepared for start taking things apart.

 

well i dont care if we have to put it together and tear it down. cars have been my life foreva im an engineer in the coast guard so i got all the tools and area to do what we need. BUT we got no oil in water or oil in coolant. i looked when we got the car to my house. its jus ive never seen a car that use to run fine jus loose all commpression in all cyls like that except for head gasket

 

OK.
Tell me from the start what went wrong first.

You said you've run two compression checks so far. What caused you to run the FIRST check? Was this before, or after the flood?

Next, when was the "flood." What caused you to run the second compression check?

If you ran the check last week and found these numbers, then had the flood and had worse numbers, you had issues way before this week. Head gasket... maybe. You more than likely should see some other symptom. The compression has to be going somewhere, and the chances of it just leaking into the engine bay (with that many leaks in it all across the board) without hitting some sort of oil or water passage is wierd.

I'm going to just say pull the head for right now, and check the valves (and of course the head gasket.)

Did the car overheat at any time?

 

car was drivin after the flood went down.. had water all in the floors of the car. she drove the cara bout 2 miles and it jus died.... we towed it to our base and ran the compression and had the 1st numbers, she then took it to western auto where they gave her some bogus ansewer prob to get money outa her.. she said to hell with it. had it towed back to the base and sold the car to my boss b/c she didnt wanna deal with it. we than ran the 2nd compression test today and came up with the low numbers. i also found out today that the motor locked untill they barred it backwards and then it cranked on its own. but there was no water found in the cyls or on the plugs. it coulda been a valve on 1 cyl but then you think why on all 4cyls its dropped so much. we gave up on it for the nite and have the head jus about ready to be yanked so ill have a conclusion to the story soon

 

yeah, keep us updated.

The reason for the different compression numbers are more than likely because you ran the second test completely cold, and the first test warm. You get better numbers on a warm motor.

I don't know what the chances of the numbers being THAT off are, but it's one possibility.

So they cranked it BACK then forward and it ran? That's wierd. There's something a little more off than just a "water pump."