Still no luck in tracking down suspected vacuum leak. Anyone have any suggestions???
I've been trying to track down a suspected vacuum leak and have had no luck. I tried the carb cleaner trick with no noticeable results. I'm running out of patience with this and am open to ideas about what the problem could be. This is on a 2nd gen B16a SIR II in a '95 hatch and the car idles @ 1100 rpms with the idle adjust screw all the way down.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigblockEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alot of WD-40</TD></TR></TABLE>
In case you didn't read the post thoroughly
I've been trying to track down a suspected vacuum leak and have had no luck. I tried the carb cleaner trick with no noticeable results.
In case you didn't read the post thoroughly
I've been trying to track down a suspected vacuum leak and have had no luck. I tried the carb cleaner trick with no noticeable results.
You can hook up a tach have someone watch your Tach while you take a propane torch and crack the valve opento let propane seep out and try it in different spots don't light the torch though. Don't worry about exploding either, there's lots of wind in the engine compartment.
Also try taking a reading with a vacuum guage, it can tell you lots about your valves and manifold. Characteristics of a vacuum leak are surging, bad smelling exhaust and poor fuel economy.
Check the injector seals, make sure they're not dried and cracked, you may see fuel leakage around them.
Your timing may be too far advanced as well, check it with a timing light. Plenty of tricks left in the 'ol mechanics bag 'o' tricks. You have to just eliminate it down to 1 thing and fix it.
Also try taking a reading with a vacuum guage, it can tell you lots about your valves and manifold. Characteristics of a vacuum leak are surging, bad smelling exhaust and poor fuel economy.
Check the injector seals, make sure they're not dried and cracked, you may see fuel leakage around them.
Your timing may be too far advanced as well, check it with a timing light. Plenty of tricks left in the 'ol mechanics bag 'o' tricks. You have to just eliminate it down to 1 thing and fix it.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
i'm having the exact same problem with my friend's swap. try backing out the allen screw on the throttle body so it would be able to close the throttle plate even more. the allen screw is located on the bottom of the coil of the throttle bracket, for a lack of a better term, where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body.
after doing so, adjust the TPS to 0.5v closed throttle and 4.0v + WOT
after doing so, adjust the TPS to 0.5v closed throttle and 4.0v + WOT
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,443
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchdrvr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you adjust the TPS?</TD></TR></TABLE>
slot the screws on the back of the TPS sensor with a dremel. slot it deep enough so you can put a flathead in there to turn it. after loosening the TPS, put a sewing pin through the red wire out of the three wires on the TPS harness (which is the middle wire i believe), and put the positive probe of a multimeter on the pin and the negative probe on a chassis ground or the negative terminal of your car battery and adjust the TPS by rotating it clockwise or counter clockwise.
adjust it for completely closed throttle at 0.5 v and 4.0v + at WOT. the transition when the throttle is opened to being completely opened, should be smooth.
i would also recommend replacing the screws on the back with allen screws. it makes it a lot more convenient if you need to adjust it in the future.
slot the screws on the back of the TPS sensor with a dremel. slot it deep enough so you can put a flathead in there to turn it. after loosening the TPS, put a sewing pin through the red wire out of the three wires on the TPS harness (which is the middle wire i believe), and put the positive probe of a multimeter on the pin and the negative probe on a chassis ground or the negative terminal of your car battery and adjust the TPS by rotating it clockwise or counter clockwise.
adjust it for completely closed throttle at 0.5 v and 4.0v + at WOT. the transition when the throttle is opened to being completely opened, should be smooth.
i would also recommend replacing the screws on the back with allen screws. it makes it a lot more convenient if you need to adjust it in the future.
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