Hey whats up guys. I have a couple of questions:

How many wires are our stock o2 sensors (5th gen upstream o2 sensors)? and should I get an auto meter a/f ratio gauge.

Second: What other gauges are better for monitering the ratio other than the Greddy unit, and if I use the Greddy unit, Do I have to weld the O2 they supply or replace it with my stock upstream???

Thanks for the help.

 

The only good A/F gauge would be a wide band, if you get any other guage you see the 4th of July in your car.

 

Wide band huh?

What product do you use?

 

the best A/F gauge to use with the stock sensor is a digital voltage meter.



Tells you the voltage, thats it. Nothing more, nothing less. The gauge is only as accurate as the sensor and this guage doesn't pretend otherwise, unlike the stupid autometer gauge.

For me, this gauge showed a constant .80v on the low cam at WOT When VTEC hit it dropped to about .76v for a second, then back up to .83v real quick, then it slowly went up to about .87v at redline. This was when the VAFC was on stock settings, and when moving the VAFC settings, it did make a difference in the voltage output. When it was all done, the voltage stayed at .81v all the way through the entire RPM range.

kinda cool, but it only tells you when something was wrong, not something to tune by. (one day, it started dropping off to .65v at WOT in VTEC - cued me into something being F'ed up)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightkid13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wide band huh?

What product do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know exactly how a wide band works but they are used for on a DYNO jet for tuning. All it looked like to me was a probe stuck into the exhaust. The reading on the computer showed the exact A/F ratio. i.e. 14:1 12:1 13.5:1. So you get a really accurate reading.
As far as what JDM H22A is using I'd say that a good device to keep in check the "wellness" of the engine but doesn't show the actually A/F reading.

 

FJO decent price... aem unit is now out..

 

Buy the Greddy, it comes with it's own o2 sensor. About $300.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightkid13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wide band huh?

What product do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.fjoinc.com/automoti...#wbo2
http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only good A/F gauge would be a wide band, if you get any other guage you see the 4th of July in your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 4th of july is the ECU adjusting the fuel to match what's going on. if it gets too lean it adds more, and vise versa. The autometer is most sensitive in the stoich area, where the yellow is, and gets less farther out. Wide bands are obviously the best way as it's voltage range is wider so it can make more minute changes.

 

So if the stock O2 sensor is good enough for the ecu, then why's it not good enough to use on a a/f gauge?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM LUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(one day, it started dropping off to .65v at WOT in VTEC - cued me into something being F'ed up)</TD></TR></TABLE>

what ended up being your problem??????????? Problems seem to be my forte'! If it can happen, it'll happen to me!