which is worth more, B18c5 or B16a2 Turbo??
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I'm still deciding on what to do with my 93' hatchback. Should I go with B16 turbo or B18c5 with I/H/E?? In the long run, I plan on selling my hatch, so what setup would make my car worth more when i decide to sell it??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skellator_thoj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm still deciding on what to do with my 93' hatchback. Should I go with B16 turbo or B18c5 with I/H/E?? In the long run, I plan on selling my hatch, so what setup would make my car worth more when i decide to sell it??</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, it really depends on the buyer. Some won't like the boosted b16 because it's already boosted. maybe they wanted it for all-motor build-up. That narrows the buying audience down a lot. With the all-motor C5, the buyer can still keep going down the NA path or sell the bolt-ons for a profit and boost. There's a wider range of prospects, w/ that respect.
well, it really depends on the buyer. Some won't like the boosted b16 because it's already boosted. maybe they wanted it for all-motor build-up. That narrows the buying audience down a lot. With the all-motor C5, the buyer can still keep going down the NA path or sell the bolt-ons for a profit and boost. There's a wider range of prospects, w/ that respect.
If you are lucky, you will get back maybe 50% of the money you spend on mods. I would suggest keeping the car as close to stock if you know you will be selling it soon for sure.
niethre are worth more
your gonna spend 5500$+ with a b16 and boost
8000+ doing the R
youll be lucky to get 1/2 of that back, VERY LUCKY
the R motor is not meant for boost, do a b16 if anything.
your gonna spend 5500$+ with a b16 and boost
8000+ doing the R
youll be lucky to get 1/2 of that back, VERY LUCKY
the R motor is not meant for boost, do a b16 if anything.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000Si-at-UK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are lucky, you will get back maybe 50% of the money you spend on mods. I would suggest keeping the car as close to stock if you know you will be selling it soon for sure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah right now its all stock, i'm just gonna get new axles, get the muffler fixed, and throw in a new clutch. how much do you guys think i should sell it for?? the body has 156,500 miles, minor rust on the rear driver side fender wall, but gonna get all the bodywork done first before i sell it, and the interior is clean.
yeah right now its all stock, i'm just gonna get new axles, get the muffler fixed, and throw in a new clutch. how much do you guys think i should sell it for?? the body has 156,500 miles, minor rust on the rear driver side fender wall, but gonna get all the bodywork done first before i sell it, and the interior is clean.
if ur gonna boost a b18 dont do the R do the gsr .. R liek the other guy said wasnt maid for boost so it would be even more money waste for u. cause the R cost alot more to swap in anyway like 1g or 2 more then the gsr
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gezer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if ur gonna boost a b18 dont do the R do the gsr .. R liek the other guy said wasnt maid for boost so it would be even more money waste for u. cause the R cost alot more to swap in anyway like 1g or 2 more then the gsr</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think any Honda motor was made for boost. I dont care about "high compression" bs. I would turbo a Type R motor over ANYTHING. It's all about tuning, so compression aint no thang.
I dont think any Honda motor was made for boost. I dont care about "high compression" bs. I would turbo a Type R motor over ANYTHING. It's all about tuning, so compression aint no thang.
Well I'd get the B18C5.
Why?
Because you could get a lot closer to the original price paid than you will out of used (and used up) turbo gear and B16A. I could probably sell off my swap for very close (or the same) that I paid for my swap. Actually I would get more than I paid because my swap was well under $4,000.00 after I sold the rest of the totalled ITR that I purchased for only $4,000.00.
The B16A on boost if running properly and tuned will ******* destroy the B18C5 though. I have a pal making 281/217 to the wheels on 14psi on a Greddy kit with Hondata with only internals being SRP 9:1 slugs and Eagle rods.
That in a hatchback would ruin any B18C5's day unless the B18C5 was boosted.
217ft-lbs. of torque is pretty much out of the question N/A with a B series streetable motor.
The same guy also made 238/189 on only 6psi of boost. Still ruining most all-motor builds on **** for boost.
...but I for one would never buy a used boosted car - period. You'd better have shitloads of pics and proof that you did not drive it untuned.
Why?
Because you could get a lot closer to the original price paid than you will out of used (and used up) turbo gear and B16A. I could probably sell off my swap for very close (or the same) that I paid for my swap. Actually I would get more than I paid because my swap was well under $4,000.00 after I sold the rest of the totalled ITR that I purchased for only $4,000.00.
The B16A on boost if running properly and tuned will ******* destroy the B18C5 though. I have a pal making 281/217 to the wheels on 14psi on a Greddy kit with Hondata with only internals being SRP 9:1 slugs and Eagle rods.
That in a hatchback would ruin any B18C5's day unless the B18C5 was boosted.
217ft-lbs. of torque is pretty much out of the question N/A with a B series streetable motor.
The same guy also made 238/189 on only 6psi of boost. Still ruining most all-motor builds on **** for boost.
...but I for one would never buy a used boosted car - period. You'd better have shitloads of pics and proof that you did not drive it untuned.
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