What's up everyone.

I'm going to be doing a rebuild of my engine... keeping everything pretty much stock, it's burning oil so I figured I'll just tear the whole thing apart and do it all back to stock for now. Anyway, I'm putting a shopping list together ahead of time to plan out what parts I'll need, I'm looking for any suggestions. This is what I have so far:

Top and Bottem end gasket sets
Piston Rings
New Thrust Washers
New Main Bearings
New connecting rod bearings
new valve seals
new valve guides
new cam seals
new timing belt
new o-rings where ever they may be.
new head bolts

That's all I have... I was thinking that while the head is off maybe de-shrouding it, but is that something I can do myself in my at-home garage or is there too much to mess up? Would there be any gains (even minimal) from doing it?

If anyone else can think of anything I'll need please let me know... also if you know of places online that sell this stuff cheap let me know... I've checked http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org and http://www.inlinefour.com so far inlinefour has got the cheaper price on the gasket kits.

TIA!

 

up up... anyone want to add anything here?

 

you could have the head decked/block honed at a machine shop...

 

Oil pump if there a lot of miles on the engine.

You may need other things as you lose or find that they're unusable (ie: LMA's, valve keepers, etc.).

 

The valve seals and cam seals are included in the head gasket set. You will NOT get a VTEC solenoid gasket though, Honda calls it a "Spool filter".

The block gasket kit does NOT come with an o-ring for the oil control orifice or the the o-ring for the breather chamber.

TB gasket doesn't come in any kit, you have to order it individually.

I also replaced all the intake and exhuast studs. In my experiece, they break a lot and they were cheap.

My motor was trashed when I got it yet, the oil pump was well within spec. Check the clearances, but you should be fine.

 

awesome! thanks for the info... the motor doesn't have many miles on it at all... about 20k - 30k but it's blowing oil so bad it looks more like an oil pump then an engine. It's a swap so it seems pretty trashed.

Thanks again!

 

how does on check the clearances and what is ideal?

 

check the specs from the helms and check using the methods shown in there... that's how I plan on doing it at least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how does on check the clearances and what is ideal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll need a set of feeler gauges.

Remove the pump then pull the pump body cover off. It's held on with 6 phillips head screws. There 3 tolerances to check.

Outer rotor to pump body: slide the feeler gauge between the 2
Inner rotor to outer rotor: slide the feeler gauge between the 2 at the "peaks"
Rotor to pump cover: lay the cover across the rotors and slide the feeler guage between them.

My manual's at home, it gives the specifications. If you need them, let me know.