Ok, when I was replacing my head gasket this weekend, I ran into a SERIOUS problem!!

When I took my driver side motor mount out to access my Timing Belt Tentioner, I found that three bolts that connect the "L" bracket to the block are toast! two are completely stripped out, and the third sheared off!!

So my engine mount is fine, the engine mounts "L" Braket is fine... but two out of the three bolt holes in the block are stripped!!

I questions are:

1. How bad is it to drive around with out that Mount connected? I'm obviously not going to be beating on it or launching or anything crazy like that. But I need my car to get around... it's my one and only daily driver.

2. What's it going to take to fix it?

I really don't the TIME ,or money, to get the block taken out disassembled and have the holes bored and re-taped (is that what I'm going to have to do? Can that be done? It looks like the one was already bored, retaped, and used a helicoil insert)

Are there any other options? A friend of mine suggested using one good Grade A bolt for the one good hole (with the snapped bolt still in there). And use some JB Weld or something like that to weld in two other good bolts in the holes. Would that hold adiquitely?? And if so, would there realy be any problem with having that "L" braket for the mount perminately attached to the block like that??


Please help me out and let me know what my options are!

 

It's time to learn about Helicoils!!!

Buy the correct Helicoil kit for the size that you need. <U></U> Buy the size drill that the Helicoil kit says that you need! <U></U>

When you go to drill out the hole to install the Helicoil, You have to drill it in straight!!. If you can't get a drill motor in at a straight shot, think about a 90 degree adapter and short drill bit.

If you take your time and don't even think about "short-cuts", Helicoils are great. If you have never done one before, get a friend to show you how or do a "test" install on a piece of aluminum.

Wes Vann

 

The one hole that is stripped was already Helicoiled....

Can it be done again???

 

So it stripped out the helicoil?? If so and it didn't damage the block OS threads again just put in a new one... You'll have to helicoil the rest too but that's the only way I would recommend doing it... As i would NOT recommend using JB weld to lock in some new bolts... Your other option that wouldn't be quite as strong would be to oversize and retap the block then mount oversize the mount holes and get new bolts... Good Luck and i'll let you know if I can think of any other options... Peace

 

I'd find and fix the original problem first.

Chances are there is a reason it stripped before, and again now.

Such as: are *all* the other mounts in place and working correctly? I sounds like one of the corners is rocking -- is the mount in the front/lower/driver-side corner installed?

Good luck,

Mark

 

Wow. A helicoil SHOULD be stronger that taped threads.

Just thinking out loud, how would one drill for a helicoil with the motor in the car? The LF shock tower is in the way.

As for the "HOW", it's possible that someone before you crossthreaded those bolts.

 

Well, I had the engine built by Import Builders...

And I imagen they are the ones that put the first helicoil in the one bolt hole.

Oh, and the Helicoil definitely was stronger.... the helicoil is still tightly wrapped around the one bolt that ripped out. The bolt&helicoil all ripped out of the re-tapped/threaded hole in the block.

Ok, so I'll probably back out the sheared bolt that is still in there and just put a good Grade 8 Bolt in there... have the other bolt that striped out helicoiled...

and what about the third hole that was already helicoiled? Can it be Re-helicoiled? Who say the helicoiles won't rip out of the block again?

I'll check the rest of the mounts to make sure they are tight. But I would imagen they are pretty tight... I didn't even realize this one was shot... there is not too much vibration or shaking going on.

Someone suggested having the L-bracket welded onto the block.... for there is really never a need to remove it... What do you think about that?

 

I believe that the "L" bracket is cast iron and that would rule out welding it to the aluminum block!

If a Helicoil pulled out, then I'd bet that the person that installed it didn't use the correct drill size!!!! It is VERY critical. It's also possible that when they removed the original bolt they had to drill it out and increased the hole size beyond what the Helicoil would need. The thing about the drill size is that it's normally a non-standard size in a wierd 64th of an inch increment. Not easy to find, but you HAVE to spend the time to locate one.

If you can't use a larger diameter bolt (stud), then you may want to check into what was called "case-savers" (back in the old VW days). I think that if you do a search on "time serts" you should find what you are looking for. If you decide to do this you should know that you will NEED a "bottoming" tap to do it correct.

Wes Vann