Fuel cut at around 7700 RPMs on a B16A
This has only happened a couple times, and it doesn't really even bother me because I usually shift around 7400, but when I do take it up to the redline it seems that the gauge cluster and VAFC agree that it cuts out somewhere around 7700 RPMs. It's definitly all the way heated up, VTEC engages like a champ, it just won't go to the redline. I'm using a Si wire harness and PR3 ECU. No codes at all, runs great, idles great, plugs all look fine. Anyone else expierenced this?
you sure the tach isn't just way off?
I've seen stock Honda tachs as far as 2,000 RPM off while on the dyno.
Makes me glad I've got an Autometer...
I've seen stock Honda tachs as far as 2,000 RPM off while on the dyno.
Makes me glad I've got an Autometer...
I have had the exact same thing happen on my b16. make sure that you connected the blue vtec pressure wire. As soon as I did that it started pulling all the way to redline.
Yeah, I have the VTEC pressure wire (BLUE VMT wire) hooked up correctly. When I didn't I threw code 22 but as soon as I hooked it up the code went away.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but when I do take it up to the redline it seems that the gauge cluster and VAFC agree that it cuts out somewhere around 7700 RPMs. It's definitly all the way heated up, VTEC engages like a champ, it just won't go to the redline. I'm using a Si wire harness and PR3 ECU. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just to get the "obvious possibility" out of the way, is it a 5-spd PR3 ECU or an auto PR3 ECU? The auto PR3 has a fuel cutoff of 7500-ish. Open it up an check on the smaller board, right in the middle of the ECU and see if it says "MT" or "AT" If it doesn't say either, then we'll use Katman's handy-dandy ECU "how to tell if your PR3 is an automatic computer" picture
Just to get the "obvious possibility" out of the way, is it a 5-spd PR3 ECU or an auto PR3 ECU? The auto PR3 has a fuel cutoff of 7500-ish. Open it up an check on the smaller board, right in the middle of the ECU and see if it says "MT" or "AT" If it doesn't say either, then we'll use Katman's handy-dandy ECU "how to tell if your PR3 is an automatic computer" picture
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Ok, I need the pic, I don't see AT or MA anywhere.
EDIT: According to Adrian @ hyperduck tuning I have an auto ECU, my ecu serial ends in -901.
in 88-91 ecus (PM6, PR4, PW0, PR3, PM7):
5spd = 000, 001, 002, A00, A01, A10, J00, J001, C01, C00
Auto = J51, J50, A50, A51, 901, A60, C50, C51, X30, A80
Do swap sellers, passwordjdm, ias, or hmo ever take care of this? Do they ever let you send in your AT ecu for a MA one?
Modified by beta13 at 12:07 PM 4/29/2003
EDIT: According to Adrian @ hyperduck tuning I have an auto ECU, my ecu serial ends in -901.
in 88-91 ecus (PM6, PR4, PW0, PR3, PM7):
5spd = 000, 001, 002, A00, A01, A10, J00, J001, C01, C00
Auto = J51, J50, A50, A51, 901, A60, C50, C51, X30, A80
Do swap sellers, passwordjdm, ias, or hmo ever take care of this? Do they ever let you send in your AT ecu for a MA one?
Modified by beta13 at 12:07 PM 4/29/2003
Ok, since you do have an auto ECU, you can chip it and it'll convert to 5-spd settings. That's going to be your best/quickest bet w/out having to fight with the company you bought it from originally.
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