need diagrams/knowledge of retractable face cd/tv player!!!!
OK, I don't know the exact name of this thing but it is the In-dash cd player with TV screen that comes out and then flips up for the display. If you've seen The Fast and The Furious it is the thing that shows Brians fuel display in the green Eclipse. Anyways, I need to know how it works and what makes it go in and out and flip up. Anybody with any knowledge of these things or can lead me to some info or diagrams would be much appreciated.
BTW, the reason why I need this is because I have an idea to retrofit this to work with another part of the car, not for audio reasons. Thanks for any help guys!
BTW, the reason why I need this is because I have an idea to retrofit this to work with another part of the car, not for audio reasons. Thanks for any help guys!
Since the only dumb question is the one thats never asked
.....
Most motorized screen use gears and accuators to move..accuators
to move in and out and gears and pivots to move up and down...
think of a draw bridge. Now if you were thinking of designing a
similar deal...why go through the trouble...just use anyones
video monitor ( oh and for the record...Brian's was an
/////Alpine CVA1006)...you can use the video
inputs to display any video info you want displayed.
Hope this helps
.....Most motorized screen use gears and accuators to move..accuators
to move in and out and gears and pivots to move up and down...
think of a draw bridge. Now if you were thinking of designing a
similar deal...why go through the trouble...just use anyones
video monitor ( oh and for the record...Brian's was an
/////Alpine CVA1006)...you can use the video
inputs to display any video info you want displayed.
Hope this helps
The reason why I need to make one of my own and can't use an existing one is because for one, I don't need it for video, audio, etc. and for two, I need something that is much bigger than an actual video screen.
okay...well give me an idea of what you are trying to do
and I'll point you in the right direction
and I'll point you in the right direction
Well, I have my EG in the body shop right now getting alot of custom work done and I was trying to figure out something to do with the license plate since I don't like the stock mounting location. Well, the idea that I came up with was a hidden license plate that would come out and fold up whenever I turn the car on. So now that I have given away my idea, hopefully noone else figures it out before I do!
So if you would like to help me on figuring this out it would be much appreciated!
I have some general ideas but from what I have come up with, it might be hard to work. Anyways we'll see what you think.
So if you would like to help me on figuring this out it would be much appreciated!
I have some general ideas but from what I have come up with, it might be hard to work. Anyways we'll see what you think.
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Which one of those would probably be best for my application? It is kind of hard to make out with just drawings and sketchs.
I know I sound dumb but I'm really not!
I know I sound dumb but I'm really not!
That would depend on what you want the final
product to look like....do you want it to rotate
around on a pivot (now you see it,now you dont) or do you want it to lift out of a panel
it all depends on what you want it to do.
Since your car is in the shop...talk to the body guys...they may have an idea for you on how to position it.
product to look like....do you want it to rotate
around on a pivot (now you see it,now you dont) or do you want it to lift out of a panel
it all depends on what you want it to do.
Since your car is in the shop...talk to the body guys...they may have an idea for you on how to position it.
What I want it to do is the same thing as the DVD screens. I want it to come out flat and then fold up when it gets to the end of it's travel. Kind of like this:
->->->->\
If you can understand that, I want it to be laying down while coming out and then flip up at the end so that you can read the plate. Plus, I talked to the body man and he has no idea how to do it.
->->->->\
If you can understand that, I want it to be laying down while coming out and then flip up at the end so that you can read the plate. Plus, I talked to the body man and he has no idea how to do it.
Okay that makes sense......part of your answer lies in the application
guides. The in and out motion can be achieved by using a small 4"
accuator,the plate can be mounted on a drawer type rail system,which
asists the in and out motion. (>>>>>> <<<<<<<<
You can use
micro switches to stop it at a certian point...while wiring through relays
to start its travel when ignition is on and off.
As for the up down motion...look into a small gearing system and a motor
system...A great idea would be to head to your local Hobby shop ( a great one)
and ask how would one duplicate a simple drawbridge ( say you saw it on a
TV program about model trains one time and it peeked your interest.....) they
may have and idea or even diagrams on how to do this. Then you just modify
all the idea/plans to fit your needs.
have fun
guides. The in and out motion can be achieved by using a small 4"
accuator,the plate can be mounted on a drawer type rail system,which
asists the in and out motion. (>>>>>> <<<<<<<<
You can usemicro switches to stop it at a certian point...while wiring through relays
to start its travel when ignition is on and off.
As for the up down motion...look into a small gearing system and a motor
system...A great idea would be to head to your local Hobby shop ( a great one)
and ask how would one duplicate a simple drawbridge ( say you saw it on a
TV program about model trains one time and it peeked your interest.....) they
may have and idea or even diagrams on how to do this. Then you just modify
all the idea/plans to fit your needs.
have fun
An idea is use two actuators. One to move the plate out of the "slot" and one to tilt it up once it gets to a certain point.
Another idea is to spring-load the license plate so it always wants to tilt up. Yet, it can only tilt up when it gets to the end of the "track" that it rides on. Then, when an actuator (4" would be too small, maybe an 8") pulls it back in the spring is under tension again. This idea may make the movement of the plate smoother because you won't have two actuators and any pause between the one stopping and the other starting.
Think of the old cars that had the fuel filler behind the tag. You can invert that idea and have it tilt downward if you wanted. Consider a door that will close kind of like a cassette deck door does so it hides the license plate slot when the ignition is off... maybe so the door is pushed open as the plate comes out.
Good luck! Let us know how this works out!
Another idea is to spring-load the license plate so it always wants to tilt up. Yet, it can only tilt up when it gets to the end of the "track" that it rides on. Then, when an actuator (4" would be too small, maybe an 8") pulls it back in the spring is under tension again. This idea may make the movement of the plate smoother because you won't have two actuators and any pause between the one stopping and the other starting.
Think of the old cars that had the fuel filler behind the tag. You can invert that idea and have it tilt downward if you wanted. Consider a door that will close kind of like a cassette deck door does so it hides the license plate slot when the ignition is off... maybe so the door is pushed open as the plate comes out.
Good luck! Let us know how this works out!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PupaScoopa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An idea is use two actuators. One to move the plate out of the "slot" and one to tilt it up once it gets to a certain point.
Another idea is to spring-load the license plate so it always wants to tilt up. Yet, it can only tilt up when it gets to the end of the "track" that it rides on. Then, when an actuator (4" would be too small, maybe an 8") pulls it back in the spring is under tension again. This idea may make the movement of the plate smoother because you won't have two actuators and any pause between the one stopping and the other starting.
Think of the old cars that had the fuel filler behind the tag. You can invert that idea and have it tilt downward if you wanted. Consider a door that will close kind of like a cassette deck door does so it hides the license plate slot when the ignition is off... maybe so the door is pushed open as the plate comes out.
Good luck! Let us know how this works out!</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only downfall to the spring idea is that eventually it will wear out and the spring will sag, also the fact that positioning the spring would also be tough. I am currently looking into small motors at radio shack to try and make the idea a little cheaper since the actuators are almost $200 just for the smallest one (4")! Keep bringing the ideas though guys, and I'll let everyone know what works.
Another idea is to spring-load the license plate so it always wants to tilt up. Yet, it can only tilt up when it gets to the end of the "track" that it rides on. Then, when an actuator (4" would be too small, maybe an 8") pulls it back in the spring is under tension again. This idea may make the movement of the plate smoother because you won't have two actuators and any pause between the one stopping and the other starting.
Think of the old cars that had the fuel filler behind the tag. You can invert that idea and have it tilt downward if you wanted. Consider a door that will close kind of like a cassette deck door does so it hides the license plate slot when the ignition is off... maybe so the door is pushed open as the plate comes out.
Good luck! Let us know how this works out!</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only downfall to the spring idea is that eventually it will wear out and the spring will sag, also the fact that positioning the spring would also be tough. I am currently looking into small motors at radio shack to try and make the idea a little cheaper since the actuators are almost $200 just for the smallest one (4")! Keep bringing the ideas though guys, and I'll let everyone know what works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93eg-EKhybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only downfall to the spring idea is that eventually it will wear out and the spring will sag, also the fact that positioning the spring would also be tough. I am currently looking into small motors at radio shack to try and make the idea a little cheaper since the actuators are almost $200 just for the smallest one (4")! Keep bringing the ideas though guys, and I'll let everyone know what works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. So consider: actuators, a few hundred bucks. Motors and something to gear them down for enough torque to turn the plate: less than $100. Spring that you change every few years: $5/yr?
A thought as an alternative to actuators: screw-type garage door opener. Get a long bolt, mount it directly to a marginally strong motor and then a nut that will ride on the bolt as it turns.
I got another idea. On the back of the plate, install two legs about an inch long near the top of the plate. Then, build a channel for those legs to run in. As the plate comes out, the channel curves down; so the plate will fold down as well.
The only downfall to the spring idea is that eventually it will wear out and the spring will sag, also the fact that positioning the spring would also be tough. I am currently looking into small motors at radio shack to try and make the idea a little cheaper since the actuators are almost $200 just for the smallest one (4")! Keep bringing the ideas though guys, and I'll let everyone know what works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>True. So consider: actuators, a few hundred bucks. Motors and something to gear them down for enough torque to turn the plate: less than $100. Spring that you change every few years: $5/yr?
A thought as an alternative to actuators: screw-type garage door opener. Get a long bolt, mount it directly to a marginally strong motor and then a nut that will ride on the bolt as it turns.
I got another idea. On the back of the plate, install two legs about an inch long near the top of the plate. Then, build a channel for those legs to run in. As the plate comes out, the channel curves down; so the plate will fold down as well.
sounds like what i did for a customer a few years ago. xcept the design i used went out and down. i used bearing track from homedepot for kitchen draws, and made a metal frame for the plate. using a small motor to draw the frame in and out along the track. once it reached the end of the track the weight of the frame would swing it down against a spring.
your idea would be along the same route. but you would need 2 motors. 1 to control in and out motion and one to control the swing. the hobby store and radio shack would be the best places along with home depot for the rail.
ok, so the one motor with a forward and reverse would control the rail. by somehow securing the rail to a chain you would have the chain go around the motor mounted at the rear(inside the car) or the track with a bearing gear at the other end. when energized the motor will push/pull the track a given distance, once it reachs that point it would hit a microswitch which would engage the second motor. motor #2 would control the pitch of the bracket. gears would either raise or lower the bracket to the desired pitch. again micro switchs would tell the motor when to stop.
hope that helps.
your idea would be along the same route. but you would need 2 motors. 1 to control in and out motion and one to control the swing. the hobby store and radio shack would be the best places along with home depot for the rail.
ok, so the one motor with a forward and reverse would control the rail. by somehow securing the rail to a chain you would have the chain go around the motor mounted at the rear(inside the car) or the track with a bearing gear at the other end. when energized the motor will push/pull the track a given distance, once it reachs that point it would hit a microswitch which would engage the second motor. motor #2 would control the pitch of the bracket. gears would either raise or lower the bracket to the desired pitch. again micro switchs would tell the motor when to stop.
hope that helps.
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