ok, so i finally got some stuff to do my trunk with. i ordered b-quiet extreme (12ft^2) and i used it to do my trunk lid, license plate, side panels and the back panel under the trunk latch (where the jack is) and it didnt do ****! my trunk still rattles just as much as it did before. whats the deal? do i need to do multiple laters on the lid? do i need to do the ENTIRE trunk? (cause only the lid rattles and makes noise) or does b-quiet just suck?

 

Do you have a Civic? I don't know if Tegs have them, but did you do the back of the panel that the plate mounts to? Expanding foam may help also. Spray it in the skeleton of the trunk lid. It helps keep the lid from vibrating against the frame when it's flexing. Home Depot and Lowes sell this stuff, and you can probably get it at Walmart. Stay away from "Great Stuff - Minimal Expanding Foam". It's been known to overexpand and destroy your trunk lid. It also permanently bonds to anything that it touches. Look for DapTex - Latex expanding foam. It's less likely to overexpand and it cleans up with water.

More Info

 

It depends on what type of rattles you are getting. If you're getting driving rattles you need to find out what it is an cushion it or rubber washer it. If it is bass rattles then you will just need to add more layers.

The foam idea should work really well. I found that the hardest part is finding all the little **** rattling. After I put in deadening I can now hear all the little squeeks and rattles. I need to eliminate them one by one.

 

yeah i have a civic coupe (96) sorry, i shoulda specified..

and yeah, its bass rattles, not road noise. that foam thing sounds like a good idea. one thing that ive noticed, is that if i push my trunk down with my body weight when its closed (to close it tighter) it doesnt rattle AS much. i dont know if that info helps...

but, im gonna try the foam thing first, then work from there. thanks for the advice...

 

Lol...okay guys this is the deal with sound deading materials...."I" just found this out...
you stop rattles by the following:

1. Adding weight so that it changes the panels
resonant frequency
2. Isolation of the offending panels ( ie using foam to fill in the gaps)

The main problem is its takes a lot of work,but its well worth it..that buzzing of metal panels is energy that is wasted which could be pressurizing a mic or your head ( its a DB Drag thing ). I'll put it this way...I spent over $1K
on Dynamat,non harding clay,and foam to sound deaden my Bronco II all for the sake of sound ( not to mention hours of labor and endless test tones and sweeps)...It all depends on what your determination level is and what you are willing to settle for.

PS I'm about to start over with my rex...at least its smaller ( thank god... )

laterz

 

thanks for the info..

welp, i used that DapTex foam stuff and it helped a little but i think im gonna need a LOT more, cause theres a bunch of holes of un-foamed areas in the skeleton of my lid still (i only used 1 bottle, just to test it out..) how many bottles of that stuff is typically used for a trunk lid? im thinkin i might get 2 or 3 more, cause taht stuff seems kinda light..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The main problem is its takes a lot of work,but its well worth it..that buzzing of metal panels is energy that is wasted which could be pressurizing a mic or your head ( its a DB Drag thing ). I'll put it this way...I spent over $1K</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now that is serious sound deadening Did sound deadening actually make a difference on the spl meter? I have always thought that it would make less rattles but not affect much more than that, besides maybe an RTA reading.

 

I believe that the most effective way to create SPL is by building a rigid chamber that doesn't vibrate at all and channels the pressure to the mic; like a container. I've seen some SPL vehicles that are lined with rigid framed walls of MDF or Plywood... maybe not for everyone. Heck, what would happen if you got termites?

Just a thought: go to a DB Drag or SPL competition and see how many people try to hold down the car (trunk, roof, doors) while it's playing in the judging lane. That demonstrates how much wasted energy goes through the body of the vehicle.

 

Many SPL competitors use cement filled/lined panels and floors.

 

Has anyone tried an armored car in SPL. Like the one well fargo and brinks use

 

Not to my knowledge, but SPL competition vehicles are damn near bulletproof.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to my knowledge, but SPL competition vehicles are damn near bulletproof.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I would say this more common in the EXTREME classes than the
rest. I basically did it for the benefits of sound quality but as the grip of rust
and age took over spl became the means to an end. So here i go again with
my new toy ( and actually CRXs are well known in SPL circles to do very well
is 1-2 woofer classes....with an average of 147-153 db with mininal work)
....I'll try to keep you all in the loop.

Oh...I always will be a SQ guy...SPL is just so much fun..I like to blow things up
laterz

 

ok, so i used 3 whole bottles of DapTex foam spray in the trunk lid of my coupe, and it didnt do SH*T! it still rattles just as much as before, the only difference is my trunk is a little bit heavier, and my wallet a little bit lighter.....

did i do something wrong? am i missing something? i mean, i know that i cant spend 50-60 bucks and expect to have perfect sound coming from my car, but i thought that the layer of b-quiet and 3 bottles of DapTex would have at least HELPED!

any suggestions..?

 

*****, all i can say is i want a sub JUST LIKE YOURS!!!!!

Lol, i dunno man, my whole car shakes and i don't think ima even try to correct it...

and after your experience im afraid to waste my money as well!

hey, what kinda sub/amp you usin man?

don't you hear a difference in sound inside the car?

you got a coupe huh? try 'spacing' the trunk with peal and seal, so it doesnt fit flush when closed

might help you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so i used 3 whole bottles of DapTex foam spray in the trunk lid of my coupe, and it didnt do SH*T! it still rattles just as much as before, the only difference is my trunk is a little bit heavier, and my wallet a little bit lighter.....

Did i do something wrong? am i missing something? i mean, i know that i cant spend 50-60 bucks and expect to have perfect sound coming from my car, but i thought that the layer of b-quiet and 3 bottles of DapTex would have at least HELPED!....any suggestions..?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you didn't I....welcome to my world ...okay I'm gonna ask a question?
Can you hear the rattles while you are in the car? ( prob not) Who cares what it
sounds like outside of the car as long as it sounds good inside is all that matters.
Now......if you really want to tackle this "problem" do this:

1. Get the Autosound 2000 Disc 101...the low frequency disc. this disc has tracks
from about 12-101...guess what its that frequency...ie u want 47hz play track 47
for all you db freaks...i'm giving away a secret so get this disc it costs about
$30 bucks.... but its worth it.
2. Play your system at a moderate level starting from the lowest track
making notes of any vibrations ( rust falling off does not count ) and at what
frequency...work on the offending area until vibration stops...move on to the
next frequency.
3. Repeat step 2 until no vibration is present at any low frequency.
4. Problem solved.

Aint life great....... See my earlier post....Laterz

 

I'll keep my rattles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOMO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey, what kinda sub/amp you usin man?

don't you hear a difference in sound inside the car?

you got a coupe huh? try 'spacing' the trunk with peal and seal, so it doesnt fit flush when closed

might help you </TD></TR></TABLE>

1) im usin a JBL bp600.1 amp and two 10" sony xplode subs (but im thinkin bout switchin em out after reading that lenghty post you started about the xplodes... )

2) nope, i hear no difference inside the car. i didnt really hear any rattles inside the car to begin with..

3) whats "spcaing the trunk"?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm gonna ask a question?
Can you hear the rattles while you are in the car?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
not really, it sound pretty good on the inside

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. Get the Autosound 2000 Disc 101...the low frequency disc. this disc has tracks
from about 12-101...guess what its that frequency...ie u want 47hz play track 47
for all you db freaks...i'm giving away a secret so get this disc it costs about
$30 bucks.... but its worth it.
2. Play your system at a moderate level starting from the lowest track
making notes of any vibrations ( rust falling off does not count ) and at what
frequency...work on the offending area until vibration stops...move on to the
next frequency.
3. Repeat step 2 until no vibration is present at any low frequency.
4. Problem solved.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like a good idea, unfortunately i dont have the time or money at the moment to do all that. thanks for the advice, but for now i think im just gonna live with the rattles

 

how do you quote more than one person ?

what i meant by 'spacing the trunk' was to put a little insulation where the trunk closes, think of it as a 'seal, like, youre tryin to seal the air inside, i guess peal and seal or whatever you use would work, maybe you have tried it already, maybe, ah hell, i don't care!

havin a bad day (life ) anyway, which way are the subs facing?
i know how you feel about outside rattling, but you will learn to live with it....

 

hmm...seems like a good idea, i might try that this weekend..

i quoted two people by opening a new window in inernet explorer, and cutting and pasting a quote from one window, to the next

my subs are facing towards my trunk lid. i tried having the other way, but it only sounded good if i had my back seats down, and i was too lazy to put them down every time i got in my car, real pain in the ***

 

Have you isolated the area where the rattle is coming from yet? Is it in the trunk lid for sure? Have you pulled out the license plate frame? Not the little plastic thing that's the same size as the plate, but the big plastic thing that the plate bolts into. If you pull that thing out, you'll find all sorts of potential rattles.

Downside is that you have to remove plastics from the inside of the trunk lid to get to the nuts/bolts that hold your... we'll call it the "plate surround" in.

Another alternative to the expanding foam is carpet padding. I have about 10 sq ft of that crap stuffed into all exterior facing panels in my car... and not a rattle one. My car is a 96 too and i know all about the rattles you're getting.

 

where do you have the padding stuffed&gt;?

 

I pulled out all of my interior plastics, then stuffed the carpet padding into skeleton of the car, then replaced the plastics. Also, in stuffed the **** out of my hatch door. It was a pain in the *** b/c most of the "holes" in the hatch door frame are no bigger than about 3" in diameter so you have to wad up the padding, stuff it in, then un-wad, and pack some more.

I have pics (at home), i'll post 'em tomorrow.

 

Here's one pic (shitty quality, i know) but you can see the hatch door, and all the little holes where you have to stuff the padding. The pinkish stuff in the pic is the carpet padding. This pic was taken during the stuffing process.

 

Here's some more pics of some of the sound deadening in my hatchback, if anyone's interested. There's about 35 sq ft of original Dynamat, 15 sq ft of the silver dynamat (ultra or some stupid name), and about 4 gal. of Cascade VB-1, not to mention all the Poly-fil and carpet padding you'd need to feed a small country.

PIC 1

PIC 2