Oilpan gasket change!! Please give me some tips
Ok, I have changed my oil pan gasket on my b16 twice now and it is still leaking. I cleaned all the old gasket material off the block and oil pan. I got a new gasket and applied gasket sealant according to the helms manual. I then proceeded to tighten and torque the bolts and nuts to 9 ft-lbs as shown in the oem shop manual. Anybody have any tips that might help to get my pan from leaking? I would appreciate anyone with a b series to let me know if there are any areas that should get more gasket sealant than others.. Thanks alot guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattED6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like to me its a front main seal</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn bro u just read my mind
i was about to say instead of changin the oil pan gasket to make sure isnt the main seals.....
how come are u sooo sure its the oil pan gasket.... but if u are check the a nice smooth surface on the pan.... no dings.... scratches or anything
damn bro u just read my mind
i was about to say instead of changin the oil pan gasket to make sure isnt the main seals.....
how come are u sooo sure its the oil pan gasket.... but if u are check the a nice smooth surface on the pan.... no dings.... scratches or anything
I am pretty sure it isn't the main seals because i replaced both before i swapped the engine in last year but who knows. Thanks for your help.
are you torqueing them in sequence?there is a specific pattern to tighten them.and the y must be torqued properly.do not pinch the seal.
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When I do an oil pan gasket, here is what I do.
1. Remove all old material and clean all surfaces where gasket will touch with carb cleaner on a clean rag.
2. I like to put a thin film of Permatex Super Blue RTV along the ENTIRE pan rail and the ENTIRE mounting surface on the block. This is just a medium thick layer spread with your finger. I do this a different steps in the process (see below)
3. Place the gasket on the pan and let it bond with the RTV on the pan for at least 15 minutes. Make sure you press the gasket against the pan to get it to squish RTV under the gasket so it oozes out the side. Wipe off any excess with your finger, not a rag, this will create even more sealing along the edges.
4. Put the thin layer of RTV on the block and let it sit for 10 minutes.
5. Bolt up the pan in the proper sequence and to torque.
6. Don't fill the car with oil or start it for 24hours minimum (Depending on weather).
1. Remove all old material and clean all surfaces where gasket will touch with carb cleaner on a clean rag.
2. I like to put a thin film of Permatex Super Blue RTV along the ENTIRE pan rail and the ENTIRE mounting surface on the block. This is just a medium thick layer spread with your finger. I do this a different steps in the process (see below)
3. Place the gasket on the pan and let it bond with the RTV on the pan for at least 15 minutes. Make sure you press the gasket against the pan to get it to squish RTV under the gasket so it oozes out the side. Wipe off any excess with your finger, not a rag, this will create even more sealing along the edges.
4. Put the thin layer of RTV on the block and let it sit for 10 minutes.
5. Bolt up the pan in the proper sequence and to torque.
6. Don't fill the car with oil or start it for 24hours minimum (Depending on weather).
i do the following steps and also after i tighten down the bolts, i take the silcon and run a bead around the outside edges...then smooth it out with my finger, so i have a layer covering either side of the gasket or the outside of it.
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