h22 in 91 civic hatch
I'm still thinkin of swappin an h22 into my civic.....i was wonderin if anyone here has done the swap or know of a site that can show me some pics of the finished product into a 91 civic hatch.....if anyone knows any it would be a great help
sounds like a good idea but your gonna understeer problems since the front end of your car will be so heavy, if your gonna do the swap I'd use it for drag only but I may be wrong
everyone saying it will handel like crap is over rated..everyone sais it..im sure if you just put some time into getting good suspension, try and distribute the weight evenly, it will handel and go like a bastard..
Great for drag...thas it...steering sux....but its fast as hell goin straight, once you get traction, we do them all the time at my shop...but word to the wise..DO NOT get the place kit...it sux for the H22 into an EF
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yeah that comes to my next idea....does a crx have the same engine space that a 91 civic hatch does? i dont know i was just wondering that.....plus i dont want to make a swap that will ruin the car.....i just want to make sure that the h22 would fit in right and not cause that much trouble.....that's all i care about.....i really want to do this swap but its like i'm not gettin all the info i want from my researching.....i'm not sayin anything bad of the b-series but i really dont want one......everyone is doin it
yeah they have the same space as a civic..maybe look into a b20 or somthing..not many people have done this swap, or atleast not as many that have done the b16..h22 though, that sounds like fun..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uriba69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah that comes to my next idea....does a crx have the same engine space that a 91 civic hatch does? i dont know i was just wondering that.....plus i dont want to make a swap that will ruin the car.....i just want to make sure that the h22 would fit in right and not cause that much trouble.....that's all i care about.....i really want to do this swap but its like i'm not gettin all the info i want from my researching.....i'm not sayin anything bad of the b-series but i really dont want one......everyone is doin it</TD></TR></TABLE>
w/ this swap i'm sure you will be doing some damage to teh engine bay itself--the civic/crx was not meant to have an h22 in there. i'm sure you will have to pound out some more space even more so than you would w/ a b series engine & then you will not have much space, the motor would be stuffed in there. I'm sure if you're good at fabricating stuff you could do it; but it won't be easy. someone here in atx had a shop do it recently i think-it's sposed to be fast as sh*%
w/ this swap i'm sure you will be doing some damage to teh engine bay itself--the civic/crx was not meant to have an h22 in there. i'm sure you will have to pound out some more space even more so than you would w/ a b series engine & then you will not have much space, the motor would be stuffed in there. I'm sure if you're good at fabricating stuff you could do it; but it won't be easy. someone here in atx had a shop do it recently i think-it's sposed to be fast as sh*%
This is some info I have come up with. Some of it may be wrong! Feel free to give input.
Stock hood is fine and will clear.
You might need a new fan.
Throttle cable will not need a bracket to fit might have to flip it up side down.
I think you can keep ac if you use a 92-95 sohc ac compressor along with the hcp h22 ac bracket.
Fuel filter might need to move to the left or down a little.
You will need a new fuel pump.
You might have to lengthen these plug wires
#1 alternator
#2 oil light sensor {dummy light}
#3 starter solenoid
A resistor pack will be needed get the one with the motor if possible.
The reverse light sensor plug on the tyranny will need to be switched out with the one from the h22.
The knock sensor will need one wire going from it to the ecu.
You can use a p72 ecu instead of the p13 and you won’t get the egr code. Plus you get better top end and an 8000 redline. There is a bit of lag at 4800 but it is hardly noticeable. I have heard of people running .2 faster in the 1/4.
Take the power steering off before you put motor in
If you cut the header shorter instead of making the cat back shorter a little power will be lost.
You will need stiffer springs. Accord spring rates up front will be good. Might be alittle stiff in back
WIRING
The injection resistor must be removed from the circuit. This is because the OBD0 injectors are not compatible with the OBD1 ECU. In order to do this, the yel/blk wire from the green plug on the injection resistor must be pulled. It will be relocated into an open space in a gray 8 wire plug from the OBD1 harness. This OBD1 plug has 8 yel/blk wires leading out from it and has a gray cap on it. Removal of the cap shows that it has an integrated metal clip that connects all the yel/blk wires together. YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE INJECTOR RESISTOR PACK.
INJECTORS
#1 Match the injector wire colors to each other, as they are the same on both the OBD0 and OBD1 harness. 0BD0 injector plugs must be cut off and the OBD1 injector plugs soldered on.
CUT THE INJECTOR PLUGS FROM THE CAR AND SPLICE THE INJECTOR PLUGS FROM THE H22 CAR HARNESS ON TO WHAT YOU JUST CUT. COLORS ARE SAME.
RESISTOR PACK
You can find resistor boxes on 95 and earlier Preludes and 91 and earlier Civic/CRX/Integras or you can buy a new one It's $74 new from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.net.
To use a Honda resistor box is simple. The resistor box has 5 wires coming out of it. One is a ground lead, and the others go to the injectors. To wire it up...do the following.
1. Cut all the yellow/black wires off each injector and route them into the injector box. (doesn’t matter what order)
2. Wire the lead on the resistor box into ONE of the yellow/black wires which used to go to your injectors. (doesn’t matter which one) You might want to shrink wrap the parts you cut to make it look clean.
You don’t have to touch the lead injector wires (the red,blue, yellow, and brown wires).
To make your own resistor pack you need to wire a 10watt 10ohm resistor (you can get these from radio shack) inline with each injector. The resistors cost about $1.67 for a pack of 2. They may be hard to find. You can also use 10watt 6ohm resistors. This is why you get the 10 watt resistors... they're rated at 10 watts because that's the amount of heat they can dissipate on their own. Meaning you can flow 1 amp thru them continuously without fear of damaging the resistors. On a fuel injector, they're handling approximately 1 amp. There is two wires going to each injector, one is a yellow/black (ground), and the other is a lead (blue, red, yellow, and brown I believe). What I did was put the resistor inline with each of the yellow/black wire (the wire which is the same color going to each injector). So all you do is cut the ground wire, the yellow/black one, put the resistor inline, little electrical tape, and you’re good to go.
O2
A 4-wire O2 sensor must be added. In order to do this, 3 lines must be added to the harness.
#1 One line runs from the O2 sensor plug to the 8 wire plug mentioned in #1
#2 The second line is a grn/wht line that runs from the O2 sensor plug to any location on the grn/wht wire on the OBD0 harness s wire is yel/blk.
#3 The third line is an org/blk line that leads to the ECU.
#4 The final wire is the white one. This wire serves the same purpose on both the OBD0 and OBD1 cars This white wire is the O2 sensor wire itself…on the OBD0 engine harness, it is a single wire and has a rather large plug on it. This plug must be cut off and the white wire for the OBD1 plug soldered on. IT WILL HAVE NO PLUG JUST WIRES.
DIST. REWIRING
#1 The lines for the distributor’s 7 wire plug can be pulled on both the engine harnesses. Make sure to match the wires coming from the distributor with the matching colors being put into the 7 wire plug. Pull the gray OBD1 7 wire plug for the distributor off the OBD1 engine harness and the replace the 7 wire plug on the OBD0 harness with it. ALL YOU DO IS CUT OFF THE DIST. PLUG FROM THE CAR AND SPLICE THE PLUG FORM THE H22 TO IT. ALL WIRE COLORS MATCH.
#2 As for the 2 wire plug, the plug has to be cut off the OBD0 harness and OBD1 plug spliced on. SAME AS ABOVE COLORS MATCH I THINK.
VTEC
#1 One wire must be added to the harness for the VTEC activation wire. It is a grn/yel one-wire plug on the OBD1 harness. This wire must be run into the car and attached to the ECU from the vtec solenoid. USE THE PLUG FROM THE CAR HARNESS ON THE H22 TO CONNECT THE WIRE FROM THE ECU TO THE SOLENOID.
VTEC OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
#1 A 2 wire plug, one wire black and the other blue/blk. The black wire must be run to a ground and the blue/blk wire runs to the ECU.
SPEEDO
The ef speedos were cable driven and the obd1 h22 were electronically driven. You can use the apexi rev/ speed meter.
YOU MIGHT HAVE TO LENGTHEN THESE PLUG WIRES.
#1 alternator
#2 oil light sensor {dummy light}
#3 starter solenoid
The reverse light sensor plug on the tyranny will need to be switched out with the one from the h22.
The knock sensor will need one wire going from it to the ecu.
That’s it for the engine harness conversion. You will need to buy or make an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness. You can buy the harness from kenji on Honda-tech.com.
Stock hood is fine and will clear.
You might need a new fan.
Throttle cable will not need a bracket to fit might have to flip it up side down.
I think you can keep ac if you use a 92-95 sohc ac compressor along with the hcp h22 ac bracket.
Fuel filter might need to move to the left or down a little.
You will need a new fuel pump.
You might have to lengthen these plug wires
#1 alternator
#2 oil light sensor {dummy light}
#3 starter solenoid
A resistor pack will be needed get the one with the motor if possible.
The reverse light sensor plug on the tyranny will need to be switched out with the one from the h22.
The knock sensor will need one wire going from it to the ecu.
You can use a p72 ecu instead of the p13 and you won’t get the egr code. Plus you get better top end and an 8000 redline. There is a bit of lag at 4800 but it is hardly noticeable. I have heard of people running .2 faster in the 1/4.
Take the power steering off before you put motor in
If you cut the header shorter instead of making the cat back shorter a little power will be lost.
You will need stiffer springs. Accord spring rates up front will be good. Might be alittle stiff in back
WIRING
The injection resistor must be removed from the circuit. This is because the OBD0 injectors are not compatible with the OBD1 ECU. In order to do this, the yel/blk wire from the green plug on the injection resistor must be pulled. It will be relocated into an open space in a gray 8 wire plug from the OBD1 harness. This OBD1 plug has 8 yel/blk wires leading out from it and has a gray cap on it. Removal of the cap shows that it has an integrated metal clip that connects all the yel/blk wires together. YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE INJECTOR RESISTOR PACK.
INJECTORS
#1 Match the injector wire colors to each other, as they are the same on both the OBD0 and OBD1 harness. 0BD0 injector plugs must be cut off and the OBD1 injector plugs soldered on.
CUT THE INJECTOR PLUGS FROM THE CAR AND SPLICE THE INJECTOR PLUGS FROM THE H22 CAR HARNESS ON TO WHAT YOU JUST CUT. COLORS ARE SAME.
RESISTOR PACK
You can find resistor boxes on 95 and earlier Preludes and 91 and earlier Civic/CRX/Integras or you can buy a new one It's $74 new from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.net.
To use a Honda resistor box is simple. The resistor box has 5 wires coming out of it. One is a ground lead, and the others go to the injectors. To wire it up...do the following.
1. Cut all the yellow/black wires off each injector and route them into the injector box. (doesn’t matter what order)
2. Wire the lead on the resistor box into ONE of the yellow/black wires which used to go to your injectors. (doesn’t matter which one) You might want to shrink wrap the parts you cut to make it look clean.
You don’t have to touch the lead injector wires (the red,blue, yellow, and brown wires).
To make your own resistor pack you need to wire a 10watt 10ohm resistor (you can get these from radio shack) inline with each injector. The resistors cost about $1.67 for a pack of 2. They may be hard to find. You can also use 10watt 6ohm resistors. This is why you get the 10 watt resistors... they're rated at 10 watts because that's the amount of heat they can dissipate on their own. Meaning you can flow 1 amp thru them continuously without fear of damaging the resistors. On a fuel injector, they're handling approximately 1 amp. There is two wires going to each injector, one is a yellow/black (ground), and the other is a lead (blue, red, yellow, and brown I believe). What I did was put the resistor inline with each of the yellow/black wire (the wire which is the same color going to each injector). So all you do is cut the ground wire, the yellow/black one, put the resistor inline, little electrical tape, and you’re good to go.
O2
A 4-wire O2 sensor must be added. In order to do this, 3 lines must be added to the harness.
#1 One line runs from the O2 sensor plug to the 8 wire plug mentioned in #1
#2 The second line is a grn/wht line that runs from the O2 sensor plug to any location on the grn/wht wire on the OBD0 harness s wire is yel/blk.
#3 The third line is an org/blk line that leads to the ECU.
#4 The final wire is the white one. This wire serves the same purpose on both the OBD0 and OBD1 cars This white wire is the O2 sensor wire itself…on the OBD0 engine harness, it is a single wire and has a rather large plug on it. This plug must be cut off and the white wire for the OBD1 plug soldered on. IT WILL HAVE NO PLUG JUST WIRES.
DIST. REWIRING
#1 The lines for the distributor’s 7 wire plug can be pulled on both the engine harnesses. Make sure to match the wires coming from the distributor with the matching colors being put into the 7 wire plug. Pull the gray OBD1 7 wire plug for the distributor off the OBD1 engine harness and the replace the 7 wire plug on the OBD0 harness with it. ALL YOU DO IS CUT OFF THE DIST. PLUG FROM THE CAR AND SPLICE THE PLUG FORM THE H22 TO IT. ALL WIRE COLORS MATCH.
#2 As for the 2 wire plug, the plug has to be cut off the OBD0 harness and OBD1 plug spliced on. SAME AS ABOVE COLORS MATCH I THINK.
VTEC
#1 One wire must be added to the harness for the VTEC activation wire. It is a grn/yel one-wire plug on the OBD1 harness. This wire must be run into the car and attached to the ECU from the vtec solenoid. USE THE PLUG FROM THE CAR HARNESS ON THE H22 TO CONNECT THE WIRE FROM THE ECU TO THE SOLENOID.
VTEC OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
#1 A 2 wire plug, one wire black and the other blue/blk. The black wire must be run to a ground and the blue/blk wire runs to the ECU.
SPEEDO
The ef speedos were cable driven and the obd1 h22 were electronically driven. You can use the apexi rev/ speed meter.
YOU MIGHT HAVE TO LENGTHEN THESE PLUG WIRES.
#1 alternator
#2 oil light sensor {dummy light}
#3 starter solenoid
The reverse light sensor plug on the tyranny will need to be switched out with the one from the h22.
The knock sensor will need one wire going from it to the ecu.
That’s it for the engine harness conversion. You will need to buy or make an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness. You can buy the harness from kenji on Honda-tech.com.
Well thank you! I have a bit more like the pics of how to do the injectors but I have not put them on imagestation yet. I will when I get home from school. I also have some links to pics of people who have done this swap if someone wants em I will post them. None are new pics just ones i have got from other post on honda-tech.
Also if you live in austin call Tybrid Performance
I have seen a crx they did this swap to looked really good.(512) 238-9923
Modified by eflove at 5:28 PM 4/15/2003
Also if you live in austin call Tybrid Performance
I have seen a crx they did this swap to looked really good.(512) 238-9923
Modified by eflove at 5:28 PM 4/15/2003
Alot of the price of this swap comes from the other parts you have to get.
The motor itself is the not so bad it the extra parts you have to get. Also if you have a shop do the work the cost will go up alot too. You can get most of the place racing parts from jdmhondaparts.com.
The motor itself is the not so bad it the extra parts you have to get. Also if you have a shop do the work the cost will go up alot too. You can get most of the place racing parts from jdmhondaparts.com.
This is just some of the parts you can use. If you dont want ac it will be less ect. ect.
2300 h22 jdm club
300 lsd
150 get header welded local shop
425 mounts jdm Honda parts
370 axles with core jdm Honda parts
200 shift linkage jdm Honda parts
210 cable actuater jdm Honda parts
99 rad car radiator direct
79.95 14in Mr. gasket fan summit
190 Front cross member jdm Honda parts
96.95 Battery box or 42.95 summit kit summit
99.95 cables
170 time n belt toda at mod a car
150 rev/speed meter used Honda-tech
170 obd0>obd1
100? Water pump kenji on Honda-tech
125 ac bracket
2300 h22 jdm club
300 lsd
150 get header welded local shop
425 mounts jdm Honda parts
370 axles with core jdm Honda parts
200 shift linkage jdm Honda parts
210 cable actuater jdm Honda parts
99 rad car radiator direct
79.95 14in Mr. gasket fan summit
190 Front cross member jdm Honda parts
96.95 Battery box or 42.95 summit kit summit
99.95 cables
170 time n belt toda at mod a car
150 rev/speed meter used Honda-tech
170 obd0>obd1
100? Water pump kenji on Honda-tech
125 ac bracket
good luck is all I can say. I've seen some messed up H22 jobs in CRXs! One guy have to cut a huge hole in his hood because it didn't set all the way in. But I think he said he made his own engine mount.(not too smart)
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BigD+Itsuki
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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