Moroso Engine Block Filler: anyone have any experience with this product?
Its an epoxy which is designed to be poured into water jackets. Has anyone used this product on a Honda engine?
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/...22008
TIA
-Thomas
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/...22008
TIA
-Thomas
I dont know how good that would work... "has thermal expansion rate similar to cast iron" of course I have heard of worse things being used...
Not on street cars due to decreased cooling ability of the water jackets?
If one were to use this epoxy 3/4 of the water jacket depth, cooling would still be sufficient near the combustion chamber.... how significant is it to have cooling at the base of the sleeves.
Any opinions welcome.
-Thomas
If one were to use this epoxy 3/4 of the water jacket depth, cooling would still be sufficient near the combustion chamber.... how significant is it to have cooling at the base of the sleeves.
Any opinions welcome.
-Thomas
Why do you not think it would work well? Not trying to be an ***, just wish to get peoples opinions.
This is a product thats someone ponited out to me, and I wonder if its a practical and cheap method of increasing the stock sleeves ability to handle boost.
Thanks.
-Thomas
This is a product thats someone ponited out to me, and I wonder if its a practical and cheap method of increasing the stock sleeves ability to handle boost.
Thanks.
-Thomas
this is the same idea from back in the early 90's when ppl would cement "sleeve" their blocks. u just poured cement into the water jackets. it was just for track use obviously.
it works very good on an alcohol race car since it runs very cool on alcohol. we had a sleeve issue before the last event and ran our car on 4 successful passes w/o any water at all.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it works very good on an alcohol race car since it runs very cool on alcohol. we had a sleeve issue before the last event and ran our car on 4 successful passes w/o any water at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What sleeve issue would that be? What block and sleeves?
What sleeve issue would that be? What block and sleeves?
a local machine shop in west palm beach. I dont want to mention names but its not anyone that sleeves blocks on here. all 4 sleeves dropped 2 times in 1 week. once at 689 whp and the other time at like 612whp.
So you have used it only to secure the sleeves, not to strenghten them?
On a street driven gasoline engine, how far up the jackets should one pour the epoxy to gain strenght and retain decent cooling?
Or is it no recommended for the epoxy to be used on a street car at all?
I say street car, not necessarily a daily driver.
On a street driven gasoline engine, how far up the jackets should one pour the epoxy to gain strenght and retain decent cooling?
Or is it no recommended for the epoxy to be used on a street car at all?
I say street car, not necessarily a daily driver.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brekekex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TTT for the morning people. Still looking to get more info.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
used similar stuff about 5 yrs ago on my FROG ... it was a daily driver, worked fine and I had a nuformz blockguard on top of the stuff too. dont fill it allt he way though ... no overheating with fludyno radiator. takes forever to dry, used stock sleeved block too.
greg
</TD></TR></TABLE>
used similar stuff about 5 yrs ago on my FROG ... it was a daily driver, worked fine and I had a nuformz blockguard on top of the stuff too. dont fill it allt he way though ... no overheating with fludyno radiator. takes forever to dry, used stock sleeved block too.
greg
Brilliant.... Just the kind of info I was looking/hoping for. Can you give more detail as to how much depth you left un-cemented?
Thanks to everyone who replied.
-Thomas
Thanks to everyone who replied.
-Thomas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">used similar stuff about 5 yrs ago on my FROG ... greg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow...has it been that long now? I still remember hearing/reading about the Frog when it was first unleashed. hehe, makes me feel a little older. :-P
Ryan P.
Wow...has it been that long now? I still remember hearing/reading about the Frog when it was first unleashed. hehe, makes me feel a little older. :-P
Ryan P.
That's because you are old, Ryan. How are my old HF axles?
Click teh purdy link pls http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...art=0
Click teh purdy link pls http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...art=0
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but has anybody tried this block filling on a d series? Has it worked out for ya? Also, how difficult is it to drill through this epoxy stuff once it has dried?
Holy 2 year old thread! MotorMatrix is even in it! LOL!
I believe the general census is that it's for track purposes only where the motor is run on alcohol, and for only short periods of time. I've never heard of anyone running a "hard block" on a street car.
I believe the general census is that it's for track purposes only where the motor is run on alcohol, and for only short periods of time. I've never heard of anyone running a "hard block" on a street car.
Lol, I figured. Anybody else run this on a street car, with a crappy old d series you had laying around? What were your results?
yeah, if done right it would technically be fine. it has an expansion rate like cast iron. -cast iron barely has an expansion rate, so thats good.
i've thought about doing this to a block i'm building up, but my pistons would go before the sleeves would
i'd probably do this to a stock sleeve block before sleeving it. way more cost effective, and nearly as proven
i've thought about doing this to a block i'm building up, but my pistons would go before the sleeves would
i'd probably do this to a stock sleeve block before sleeving it. way more cost effective, and nearly as proven
you mean do this to a stock block, rather than sleeving it?
Also this stuff has the expansion rate of iron, BUT what is it's heat transfer rate? Will it transfer heat from the sleeve to the coolant running through the holes you drilled?
Also this stuff has the expansion rate of iron, BUT what is it's heat transfer rate? Will it transfer heat from the sleeve to the coolant running through the holes you drilled?
well im glad this was still here hard to find but here. well im going for it i have an ls block only going to leave about 2in form the top a long with a block gard it will run in e85 with **** tons of spray 2-400 hp worth lol
People have used other epoxies to do this also and it works fine. I think it was one made by Devcon I saw last, and it was basically a thick mix of epoxy and aluminum powder.
What I saw before is someone filled the coolant jacket (the open area around the cylinders) with salt, evened it out, and poured the epoxy over the top of that. Then you flush the block out and it flushes the salt out. I think it was the top 1/3 or something that needs the most support.
If you're having to fill the jacket to keep from blowing sleeves, I'm assuming the motor is either a track only car or you're romping on it pretty hard. If it's a DD, you should just sleeve it. $1000 to sleeve a block seems worth it to me. You can make a lot of power on stock sleeves though...
What I saw before is someone filled the coolant jacket (the open area around the cylinders) with salt, evened it out, and poured the epoxy over the top of that. Then you flush the block out and it flushes the salt out. I think it was the top 1/3 or something that needs the most support.
If you're having to fill the jacket to keep from blowing sleeves, I'm assuming the motor is either a track only car or you're romping on it pretty hard. If it's a DD, you should just sleeve it. $1000 to sleeve a block seems worth it to me. You can make a lot of power on stock sleeves though...
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