i have a jm b16 with pr3 ecu...getting code 6. im not hiting vtec. anyone know if this code is te reason? you know how to solve the problem so i dont get the code anymore? thanks
Rob

 

ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

got it from http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/codes.html

sorry, i don't know what it could be...maybe check your coolant levels and your thermostat? are you throwing any other codes?

 

happened to me too and vtec didnt kick in...check the wiring and make sure its not stripped.

 

this is the only code i have....where is the sensor?whats it look like?

 

if that girl in your avatar is your girlfriend, you are one lucky ****

 

The sensor is the one thats closet to the front of the engine block, if I recall its a green clip. Make sure its plugged into the right sensor, I know that clip could be swithced with another clip thats right by it. So just make sure there in the right spot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The sensor is the one thats closet to the front of the engine block, if I recall its a green clip. Make sure its plugged into the right sensor, I know that clip could be swithced with another clip thats right by it. So just make sure there in the right spot. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that can happen, but the last two times i had had that code they were electrical problems and not a sensor problem. the last code 6 i had was, because my #3 injector wire was broken at the ecu plug! that took me about three weeks to figure out!

 

i really want vtec i wish i could just figure out this damn problem...ttt

 

Test your sensor. the cts (coolant temp sensor) should read 4-5000 ohms of resistance when cold, and 300-400 when warm, if I remember correctly. If in doubt, replace it.

 

reset ecu? could this be the infamous hf b-series prob? when you slap it to reverse, the code6 pops up and idles terribly bad and no vtec. there was a post here where someone said to cut the b9 wire and it should solve the prob.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that can happen, but the last two times i had had that code they were electrical problems and not a sensor problem. the last code 6 i had was, because my #3 injector wire was broken at the ecu plug! that took me about three weeks to figure out!</TD></TR></TABLE>

How does code 6 have anything to do with the injectors ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ULTRA911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reset ecu? could this be the infamous hf b-series prob? when you slap it to reverse, the code6 pops up and idles terribly bad and no vtec. there was a post here where someone said to cut the b9 wire and it should solve the prob. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hey does the reverse problem and code6 problem go hand and hand? because i have an hf and i had the reverse problem also and i disconnected the wire and it solved it but didnt reset the ECU. i dont know if i was suppose to disconnect th green or yellow wire though. but no more check engine light and idles fine andeverything but i didnt reset the ecu and im still getting the code6 and no vtec. hopefully i just reset it and it will go away! BTW you know which wire i was suppose to disconnect the yellow or green one for the reverse problem?

 

UPDATE: i reset the ecu and i still have the code 6. i was hoping when i reset it i have the problem that most HF people face when they swap in the b-series. what sensor is the coolant temp sensor...there are 2 green sensors and one white one...the white one appears to have some oil in it. i dunno what that means but someone please help me out. i cant figure this out.
Rob

 

The coolant temp sensor is the one directly below the VTEC solenoid, closest to the radiator. To test it, simply remove the harness plug and hook up a multimeter to test the resistance. When cold, it should read 4-5000 ohms. When fully warned up, it should read 200-400 ohms or so, I believe. Test this and let us know.