I noticed on my friends b18b and b18c the exhaust side of the head is studded.

My b16 head has bolts that screw in. Well I already stripped one.

So, to stud or not to stud, that's the question.

 

If I remember, OBD1 were studded and OBD2 were not. You can stud them if you want, but the bolts will be fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paul_Vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I remember, OBD1 were studded and OBD2 were not. You can stud them if you want, but the bolts will be fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, both of his motors are obd1. Mine is obd2.

 

Stud that bitch. As Corky Bell says, "A stud is an engineer's design. A bolt is the marketing compromise."

Sonny

 

I thought I would be smart and stud mine with arp studs so I dont have to pull bolts in and out. Then i went to put my Full-race manifold on and I couldnt tighten the top row of nuts. I needed an open end 12pt wrench which i tried to make but didnt work. So on mine I have studs on the bottom and bolts on the top.

 

I think im just gonna stay with bolts..

 

If you are going to run boost, you might have to use bolts, depending on the manifold, you might not get the hex of a nut to spin (clearance) where a bolt has a smaller head you won't have the clearance issues. Also, there is no need to overtighten the exhaust bolts. On my RevHard manifold, it would probably be impossible to use studs in all the locations. I can't speak for other manifolds though.

 

if you can get a nice coil in there then i would recomend to stud the head.

 

i had to put studds in the top side of my manifold but could use either studds or bolts on the bottom. i just went ahead and studded the entire thing. it kinda made it easier to install because i did not have to worry about the weight of the turbo and downpipe when bolting it up, and i did not have to hold the manifold and fumbule around with bolts. if you want to studd it just find and old obd I motor/head and pull out the studds!

 

Go for it, bolts are a pain. Should cost well under $1 each for OEM. I wouldn't waste money on ARP exhaust studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchblack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go for it, bolts are a pain. Should cost well under $1 each for OEM. I wouldn't waste money on ARP exhaust studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I planned on OEM.

 

i studded my B16a2....its alot easier to work with than bolts....STUD!!!!!

 

im trying to, but cant see why studs are better. someone enlighten me, aside from stripping threads or breaking stuff when overtightening with bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PseudoSilvia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go for it, bolts are a pain. Should cost well under $1 each for OEM. I wouldn't waste money on ARP exhaust studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM has always worked great for me. On some turbo manifolds I ran into some studs that were close to the runner tubes....some simple shortening took care of that issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OEM has always worked great for me. On some turbo manifolds I ran into some studs that were close to the runner tubes....some simple shortening took care of that issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I ended up studding the head. But I didn't go OEM. They wanted $5.99 per stud... F*ck that. I bought some generic studs and used some locktite on them to keep them in.

Thanks for the advice guys.