What does everyone think of these parts:

JE pistons, crower rods, ls crank (balanced and knife edged crank, micropolish crank journals), honed cylinder walls, meziere water pump for GSR, unorthodox oil pump for GSR, AEM cam gears, AEM pulleys, powercore header, ACT flywheel, ACT stage three clutch, P&P B16 head (maybe stock cams, and springs), ARP head studs and rod bolts, ITR intake manifold.

A reliable LS/VTEC that can rev all day? Or did I over do it.

 

How much you figure on spendin for that wish list?

 

you could do way better for that kinda money

 

I guess I over did it then. I can get a lot of those parts for cheap. Is the LS/VTEC reliable even with out all of those extras?

 

u dont need aftermarket water pumps and oil pumps...

lsvtec is as reliable as you build it...and tune it..

 

if i were you..

u dont need pulleys they dont do ****
dont use aem gears
dont need to do that much work on the crank
arias pistons
dont need to hone the walls
get a better header
dont need to pp the head, ive seen little gains without a CRUCIAL setup
get a skunk2 IM.
and aftermarket or at least CTR or ITR cams. and skunk2 springs/retainers
reuse stock valves

 

Cool! Thanks for the input! Could I use CTR rods just for insurance or just stick with the stock ones? Could I rev to 8k with no problems?

 

ctr rods will shorten the stroke. and make it suck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i were you..

u dont need pulleys they dont do ****
dont use aem gears
dont need to do that much work on the crank
arias pistons
dont need to hone the walls
get a better header
dont need to pp the head, ive seen little gains without a CRUCIAL setup
get a skunk2 IM.
and aftermarket or at least CTR or ITR cams. and skunk2 springs/retainers
reuse stock valves</TD></TR></TABLE> Why not hone the walls?? You're putting in new pistons and rings, so why not?

 

i'm gonna have to say do like a .5 over bore just to be sure they are fresh walls... then hone...

always bore and hone...

 

I was wondering about the honing thing too. What should I do with the rods so they are stronger? Shoud I use B18 pistons or B16 pistons since I am using a B16 head? I just got the LS engine from my friend (he took the whole damn thing apart and it only had 70k on it) the connecting rods look puney. Are you sure they will hold up or should I just get them shot peened, balanced and have the beams polished?

 

.5 over is a bit much, .25 will give you a nice clean cylinder wall finsh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KoRE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm gonna have to say do like a .5 over bore just to be sure they are fresh walls... then hone...

always bore and hone...</TD></TR></TABLE>Only bore when needed; measure the cylinders for taper and out-of-round to find out if needed.

 

my opinion Ls/Vtec SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!

hahahhaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedVelocity.org &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my opinion Ls/Vtec SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's nice that you think that... I will always take a B18C over an LSVTEC but i have no problems with them... Why do you say this???

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ctr rods will shorten the stroke. and make it suck</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure you know hybridvteceg but I'm just making sure since no one really told him... You CAN'T just slap CTR rods onto an LS crank on a B series motor without swapping to a B16A/B (77.4mm) crank... This is because you're going from the shortest rods that come in the 270mm deck block to the longest... At top dead a B18A/B/20B/Z (89mm) crank in a 270mm block with CTR rods will have an OE pistons (std. wristpin height) topping out ~4.6mm's above the deck...

I would place your money in other areas when building a motor like this... If you use OE pistons or even forged overbore the block... It's simple and gives your rings nice new cylinder walls to seat in. 0.25mm for OE pistons, 0.50mm for forged... If you're building a motor like this why use stock cams... Atleast go with ITR/CTR... I've also never heard of an ACT stage 3 clutch... What is that??? Maxx Xtreme PP with race disk??? What would you use for TUNING??? As for the sprockets go with SK2 or any others that have atleast a 6 pin bolt pattern... I've had AEM's slip before and overall if you choose to show them off the SK2's look cleaner... Just my $0.02... Good Luck

 

Maybe I should just turbo the LS motor. This seems like too much work for a NA motor. I am thinking of just building the motor back up to be a little tougher, a block guard, exhaust and the turbo kit. Will this get me into the 13s or would the LS/VTEC be better?

 

if you plan on going with turbo just stay with the current set up no need for Vtec

 

What mods do you have to be in the 12 second club?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What mods do you have to be in the 12 second club?</TD></TR></TABLE>


have a 12 second car or faster.......and im faster



Modified by SpeedVelocity.org at 2:27 PM 4/12/2003

 

Can anybody explain this? I have been looking at bore to stroke ratios of a lot of VTEC motors and I have found out that these motors are actually undersquare. Is the LS/VTEC's bore to stroke ratio really that bad? Anything that resleeving won't fix or maybe some balancing? I have'nt heard of connecting rods failing in these motors very often.

 

most motors are undersquare
only one thats near square is the B16

If you are worrying about whats mechanically reliable look at the rod-to-stroke ratio, not bore-to-stroke. Bore to stroke doesnt really mean much.
Although most manufacturers are leaning toward more bore than stroke (i.e. the new Nissan 350z) to obtain keep torque flatter up in the highend.

1.74:1 of the B16 is very reliable.
1.54:1 of the LS block is still reliable [just dont plan on staying in high revs (8k+) for a long time i.e. endurance racing]
B18C , the best of all compromises ..great power & reliability.

 

What if I use a B17 crank?
or
What if I use a set of ITR rods?

 

With a B17 81.4mm crank you'll have a displacement of 1800cc's with a 84mm bore (i.e. B20B/Z w/ B17 crank)... You can't run ITR rods unless you run a B18C crank... I would just build it with the stock crank.. you'll be fine.. If you wanna have the best of both worlds then just go with a straight B18C... Just my $0.02 again... Latez

 

I think you just stick with the LsVtec motor. LsVtec are just as reliable as the b18c when built correctly even with stock rods. If balance your motor you can spin 9k all day long. I know because me and my friends do it, and none of us have broke yet.

 

Damn, 9k on stock rods and crank? That is good! I was gonna balance everything anyway. What pistons are you running? Have you sleeved the motor?