I need to solder some wires on my ECU harness. I am trying to connect two wire ends. Should I solder them end to end, side by side, or should I iterlace them? Or should I just twist them together and then solder?

 

 

I twist and solder...havent had any problems yet!

 

get a good mechanical connection before soldering.

Interlace them tight or twist them tight together before soldering. When soldering, let the solder melt and wick up into the connection.

 

1.) Warm up the soldering iron.

2.) Touch the solder to the tip of the iron to start a bead. The bead is the melted portion of the solder. It'll only melt so far, no matter how long you hold it to the iron (I think..I've never been one to test this theory), so you shouldn't worry about it burning your hand. The bead is kinda like jello at this point and you can move it around without losing the liquid contact with the soldering iron.

3.) While maintaining a bead with the soldering iron, touch the solder bead to the wire and it'll magically run onto and then into/throughout the wires.

The solder should make its way all the way into and around the connection.

It's actually kinda cool seeing it happen right in front of your own eyes. I still get a heart murmur every time I see it.

When you get it right, you'll absolutely know that you got it right.


[Modified by IN VTEC, 10:58 PM 4/7/2003]

 

tha hell, do you ever post anything remotely helpful? It would appear you've been banned before but keep coming back.

As for soldering, what I do is strip the insulation on both ends pretty far, stick some heat shrink tubing over one wire and slide it out of the way, then make the ends of each wire into hooks. Hook the two ends together, and then twist them around each other. This will make the strongest connection. The solder will then act like cement and hold them together permenantly. As for the actual soldering, you will always get the best solder if you use the iron to heat the actual wire, and then let the solder melt over the wire. Melting the solder itself and letting it drip onto the wire will not give as good a connection.

Oh yeah, after the connection cools down, you should obviously slide the heat shrink tube down over the connection and heat it with a lighter or something until it makes a nice tight covering around the connection.


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 10:56 PM 4/7/2003]

 

Anyone know where to get a disconector or something? to disconnect the wire from the ECU harness plug. I tired advance auto parts, they said they dont have one.

 

Also, if you put some flux on the wires before you solder them, they will take the solder ALOT better. When you heat up the flux it removes all the greases from your hands and leaves a clean surface for the solder.

Heatshrink r0x0rs!

 

Hmm good idea, I never tried using flux before. Just remember to heat up the actual wire, and let the wire melt the solder.

As for disconnecting the wire from the ECU harness, you should be able to use any small tool like a precision screwdriver or something to release the pin that holds the wire terminal inside the harness plug.

 

keep in mind if your soldering iron isn't that powerful this might take a little while, just wait until the solder appears to liquidfy and run away leaving a thin film over the wilres. You can see the form of the copper strands again, but covered with solder.

 

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that, you should still be able to see each individual strand of copper wire, but it should be the silvery color of the solder after you're done. If you pile on the solder in large amounts, it won't be as good of a connection.

 

i would practice first on some spare wires that you have around the house first ...make sure when u do this that you have a some aluminium foil or something underneath were ur sotering because u don't wanna get that stuff on ur carpet...and remember not to over solder the wires ..

 

banned.

 

 

Is there a benefit between using male to female connectors? I'd rather just solder connections together.

 

I got some heat shrink stuff at Napa. It was like 3 bucks for 12 4 -5 inch long tubes. Good Stuff.

I got all the stuff i needed, but which part of the terminal do instert the tool in to pop out hte wire?

 

You should use some kinda skinny pointy tool to get the wire out of the harness. You have to stick it through the backside of the harness (the side where the wire goes into the harness) and work it around to try to get it dislodged. It can be difficult sometimes, but it can be done.

As for quick disconnects, soldering of course gives the best connection, but if you want to be able to connect or disconnect a wire at will, then you can use some crimp-on quick disconnects, and then put a bit of solder onto the crimped part where it attaches to the wire. That's what I did when I was attaching a ring terminal to the antenna adapter I made for my S2000 antenna.

 

it also helps to wet the tips of the wires with some solder before attaching them together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should use some kinda skinny pointy tool to get the wire out of the harness. You have to stick it through the backside of the harness (the side where the wire goes into the harness) and work it around to try to get it dislodged. It can be difficult sometimes, but it can be done.
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I tried doing what you said, but I could not get it out. I am worried that If I damage the terminal will have to get a new harness. Can I buy the terminals at an auto parts store if I accidentally mess it up? Also, does it pop out from the front? or do I need to pull it out from the back? Do i have to pry the sides? or just push?